Looking to see if anyone has any old random an lines and or fittings they want to part with. 

Just put on a set of bassetts and need to plumb the T and water lines.  I'm going to redo everything over the winter and don't want to pay for new parts if I can find used. 

I need -8 fittings, 5 straight, one either 45° or 90°.  I can use assembled hoses if someone has those lying around.  I need one 30", one 18" and one ~6".  I can shorten longer ones if need be. 

Dig through your junk drawers and old parts bins and sell me your old, faded, discolored an fittings and hose. 

I have a few parts lying around to trade if you're interested in the that instead of cash.

Thanks,
Lynden

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Check your PM's

And lt1 also has a closed cooling system in a car.

A jet boat engine, just sitting in the water is mostly dry / empty.

When water enters the top, it will seek the path of least resistance, and out the back, leaving the majority of the block and heads uncooled/dry.

If you restrict the water on the exit, you will over pressure the block and heads, pushing out a head gasket or even the core plugs.

When an Lt1 is in a boat, car rules no longer apply.

With a whole lake full of water, reverse flow cooling or not, it WILL stay cool. Exit temp should be 120° or so with headers.

Dan'l

When you say "out the back", what do you mean?   

The lake full of water makes sense, it's going to cool either way, just thinking it should be plumbed the way it was designed.

My understanding of how a jet cools the motor is that the block fills from where the water pump would normally mount, fills the block, then the heads, then out the water neck to the exhaust. 

Why wouldn't you plumb the LT1 the opposite of this, so that it fills the heads via the upper water pump holes, and then the block, then exits via the lower water pump holes?

After thinking about it for a second, an LT1 would be a little difficult to plumb in a boat without some sort of adaptor.  Since the water neck is part of the pump you'd have to have a plate made up that would feed into the block on the top, then out on the bottom.  Basically two fittings on each WP attachment point instead of one.



http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/lt1-vs-lt4-corvette-engine-parts-differences-useful-links.13141/

If you do run it, run a vented Opti, not that early crap.

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Still have this stuff taking up space in the garage. 

Anyone want to play Let's Make A Deal?

Sold the pistons

$40 for the valve covers

$180 for the cam/lifters/springs.

Stripped the paint off the deck to see what was underneath and found out why the P.O. repainted.

It is really a trial and error thing. First thing I would do is to get a Wide open throttle vacuum reading and run a Go Pro on the upper velocity plates to witness the plates opening angle. If the carburetor is under demanded (like on a big cammed BBC) they will be WFO, but a mild small block may need that help to lower the vacuum pressure.

What's the set up?


GT

Stock BBC out of a 78 truck, peanut ports, logs and snails, Performer 2.0 dual plane and a 750 CFM Edelbrock 1407 on top of a 1" open spacer, turning an "A" impeller.    It makes ~18 - 20Hg at idle and I figure ~225 HP.

A jet boat engine thrives on high RPM torque and the AFB type carburetor limits how much air the motor can pull in. They can be made to work better, but never work great. You would be much better off with a mechanical secondary Holley type deal. You also have to be careful with some of the Edelbrocks because they can have these teeny tiny little fuel filters in the carb top that restrict fuel flow when they are even a little dirty, causes an extreme lean condition.


GT

I guess that makes sense with that goofy air door at the secondaries.  Any tips on hopping it up a little?  Don't have the scratch for a holley at the moment.

I guess I'm not understanding what you're trying to do. Where on the boat were the pictures taken of the paint being striped and what do you mean by 'tub' when removing the paint?

Your boat's 42 years old, if the metal flake is the original and not been re-painted the deck flake might have faded quicker than the side flake being exposed to direct sun. Resin and gel never stops curing.

The top two pics were taken around the outside perimeter of the seating area, basically where your arm would rest while riding shotgun. The bright white is paint, the yellowish white is what appears to be faded/discolored gel, and then there is metal flake blue underneath. 

I guess someone could have sprayed white gel over the original blue flake.

I cut a hole in the dash to install another gauge and then sanded the plug just to see what's going on. 

The layers are as follows:

White paint
Primer
White/yellowed gel
blue metal flake gel
glass
plywood

Haven't stripped the whole boat yet, but that's my next step, curiosity has gotten the best of me.

There isn't a ridge between the blue and white on the bottom of the hull.  I don't think there is, but I can tell on the deck because the P.O. painted over the white and did a horrible job of masking/blending. 

When I stripped the paint from the inside of the tub there is a white gel on top of the blue.

From what I can tell from looking inside the hull and underneath the rub rail it doesn't have a cap job, but I'm not 100%.  I need to repaint the white anyway, so I might just strip all the paint and see what the gel looks like underneath.

One odd thing, the blue doesn't match between the deck and the hull.  If you look close at the back the blues are two different shades and one has more metal flake than the other.  It's like the built the top and bottom a month apart and just slapped them together to make a boat.

I would go with what feels good when I sit down
If you google jet boat buckets seats. Overton.  Wholesale marine has generic buckets that are about the same with dimensions.  There’s plenty to pick with sizes.   


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Cool, thanks for the info.

I got the biggest base I could comfortably fit in the boat cut and mocked in yesterday.  It comes out to ~24" overall.  That leaves me with an 18" interior seat dimension.  Maybe I need to go to bass pro or cabella's and sit in a few to see what width(s) are comfortable.

Could someone who has cocktail seating please do me a huge favor??

I'm looking for a couple of measurements for the front buckets:

inside dimensions
overall width/depth/height.

Pictures to go with the measurements would be GREATLY appreciated, but not necessary.

Thanks