We use boiling water to soften the hose and heat the fitting, then quickly shake the water off both then spray on a teflon based gun-lube on both the fitting and inside of the hose. Then with the fitting in a vice, shove it in. Works every time, especially on the larger fittings. I think teflon-based gun lube is registered and restricted in NewYork(Hillary's)state. Get it bootlegged in from elsewhere (the red states).  TIMINATOR

Many shops prefer to shot abrade the rods, as glass bead is extremely difficult to completely remove from parts. Also shot abrading strengthens the rods slightly, while glass beading weakens them. If you are installing new rod bolts and nuts(and you should), oil the threads and torque and loosen, then retorque the hardware a total of 3 times before the rods are resized,this burnishes the high spots and results in more consistant torque, whether you will finally torque them or if a rod bolt stretch gauge is used. Also tell your machinist whether you will just torque the bolts or if you have a stretch gauge so he can duplicate the method that you will use during final assy. There won't be a lot of difference in the big end distortion, but there will be some. It takes no more time to do this the best way. If ARP bolts are used, use the supplied moly grease on the threads.But DO NOT use anything but motor oil on stock or stock-replacement bolts, useing moly lube on stock bolts will result in an over torque situation and failure will result. Simply weighing the rods may not help since you don't know where the weight is, two rods can weigh exactly the same amount, but have the weight distributed differently between the large and small ends. We have seen two identical weight rods be off by more than 12 grams from end to end to each other. You must also maintain .012"+ between the rods as installed to allow oil to escape from the bearings, mock-up and check this before balancing is done, and don't forget to number the rods too so you know which journals the side clearances were checked for. Aftermarket crank balancing from some companies is a JOKE!!! Most factory balanced rotating/reciprocating assys. are not usually within 12-15 grams. They don't balance the rods end to end or balance the pistons either. They just weigh one rod and one piston in the set, and then use what typical rings and bearings weigh, not yours to figure the bobweights. Did they get the light or heavy piston or rod to use to make up the bob-weights? This is why race shops charge more to balance than the factories, it takes longer to do it correctly, and time is money. A street motor lives its life typically under 2500 RPMs, a drag motor usually runs at high RPM for 10-12 seconds, not full throttle across the lake, like we do. Thats why car engine builders aren't as picky(anal) as the better boat engine builders, they don't have to be. One full throttle lake blast lasts longer than a drag motor sees all season.  Sorry about the length of this post, but I have a reputation for being picky.  TIMINATOR

Don't bother to fill the filter if you are priming the system, it takes only a few extra seconds to fill it, and theres less chance for a mess. With a 460 the filter screws in almost sideways and you can't fill it much anyway. At first, the drill will spin freely, then it will draw down slightly when the pump picks up prime, then it will draw down further when the filter is full, and finally it will draw down even more when the oil galleys are full. DO NOT continue to keep running the drill! All that will accomplish is to wash all of the bearing assembly lube off of the bearings and down into the pan. If your rig has a remote filter setup, it will take longer, but the drawdown will be the same, if you are unsure, you can crack open the return line from the remote filters to the block and see when the oil lines are full back to the block. It is neither necessary or desireable to prime until oil is at the top end and comes out of the pushrods, you should have lubed them anyway. With a hydraulic cam having the lifters empty at start-up eases the cam break-in too.  TIMINATOR

I still have my bbford headers for $325.00 + shipping.   TIMINATOR   623-877-8553

I could sell my Baker tunnel "V", call me. Its set up for a BBC.  TIMINATOR

I have a set of Hooker O.T. headers for sale, they have some blueing, but overall are nice.   $325.00 + shipping.  TIMINATOR  623-877-8553

You call me, and give me your dimensions and we go from there. I can machine them any way you want. We also do custom welding, fabbing and pump work.  TIMM  623-877-8553 we are in the west Phx,az area. We ship a lot of pumps in and out by greyhound bus, its the cheapest way.

Not saying that this is what happened, but my experience with many assemblers using any aftermarket rods is that they don't check the side clearances. If it is not enough,(.014+ steel) or (.020+ alum),oil is restricted from flowing away from the rod bearings and a spun or damaged bearing happens, and usually when the engine reacher peak operating temprature. When looking at a failed rod bearing, allways look at the rod sides for metel contact or spalling. Side widths may vary more in aftermarket rods, depending on manufacturer, than factory stuff, and because of that assemblers that haven't used anything other than stock stuff never check the side clearances, and get away with it. Old alum rods were cast, the modern stuff is forged and of better alloy.   TIMINATOR

To clarify what happened to the jet conversions, one installed an Evenrude 150 HP weed wacka, and the other had a Black Max 175. TIMINATOR

Alum rods will make slightly more HP than steel rods, the main gains would be to have a lightweight piston too. Actually the lighter piston will make more difference than the rod alone. In the old days of 20+ years ago, durability was a factor in alum rod use. Any modern rods from a reputable manufacturer will not have any longetivity issues. Whomever does the balancing will usually charge a premium to balance a motor with alum rods because the crank counterweights must be cut down quite a bit to achieve proper balance. This takes time, and time is money. Clearance in the crankcase is an issue, more with stroker setups, but possible too with stock stroke. Clearance issues are more likely with a BBChevy than a BBFord. If you don't allready have one, a roller cam will provide much more gains at jet boat RPMs than the alum rods, as will a good set of heads. The rods are pretty far down the list of cost effective HP gains in the jetboat RPMs.  I have run alum Bill Miller and Childs and Albert rods for over 3 years in street/strip low 10 sec./high 9 sec. cars, and some fast boats too.  TIMINATOR

I've got a 25 Daytona, 565, alum heads,14-71,intercooler,NO2, etc,etc,etc,  TIMINATOR

I have a scoop for a dominator, its nice.  TIMINATOR  623-877-8553

I have the 700 and 750 double pumpers, and probably the dist.(I'll have to check)and probably a cam too. CALL ME, I do not check in here very often. I am in the Phoenix,AZ. area   623-877-8553  anytime or cell  602-376-5304  TIMM