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Messages - SS-201

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126
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: BBC Diagnosis
« on: December 08, 2010, 03:48:30 AM »
The Judge will make the final decision. Present a strong case with statements, pictures, and a expert engine person to go with you if possible. A expert person will definitely help you.

127
Boat Racing / Re: Scarlata Retired?
« on: December 05, 2010, 02:24:12 AM »
Glad to hear that, when you have close calls such as he has. His body and mind are telling him it's time. I spent 20 years in the East driving the the fastest , ERR, E&F service, ski, SS. I roled a 16 ft Patterson in Dayton, OH in the ski divisionals.It drove from the right side and always wonder how I ever would come out well I did. Did a simular roll like Tony, luckly came out ok put a hole in the deck with my head. However I continued to drive but always had the flip on my mind every time the boat made a motion. When you have these things on your mind and not soley on driving it's time to leave. He has nothing to prove, hard charger.

128
WarZone / Re: Anyone else?
« on: December 03, 2010, 02:12:17 AM »
We can run the boat inside the garage however not in the driveway. This makes it ok here  in Fla.

129
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Carburater Selection
« on: November 06, 2010, 02:14:39 AM »
The differene of a marine carb is the vent tubes, if the carb over vents the fuel goes directly back into the carb rather than the boat. You can buy them ( J tubes) from holley or make them.

130
The No Wake Zone / Re: Coolest car you ever owned....
« on: November 03, 2010, 04:00:09 AM »
My 1957 fuel injected Chevrolet Corvette 301 fuel with all the the racing goodies, I was a member of SCCA. Instead went boat racing with APBA and my 1932 F Service class , of which I still own.

131
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: carb
« on: October 21, 2010, 03:38:54 AM »
To add more Carb or CFM depending on the modifications may add maybe 5 HP however you want to improve on the VE volemetric effeciently. Again the mods, heads,cam,intake manifold, comp, etc are necessary to increase the VE. The formula to figure CFM is pretty much a good indicator.
Remembering that at 5250 is where the hp and torque meet . EX. Given all the facts 750 to 850 CFM more carb can give raise the HP 5 hp and raise the VE from 88 to 90 %

132
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: carb
« on: October 20, 2010, 02:14:56 AM »
Your 650 is just fine for a stock motor, with other mods a bigger would be better.

133
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: What oil should I run?
« on: October 02, 2010, 06:41:28 AM »
Salesmen, I asked what the "W " meant  on the label. He had no answer he didn't know and this was with a reputable oil distributor.
So what I am reading here are direct quotes from written passages, which is good. The more knowledge the better understanding of oils.
Growing up we were in the transportation business and the knowledge of oils was terrible. We used about everything coming down the pike. In those days they all wore ten gallon hats and criticized every body's product. We learned the hard way we were getting engine changes instead of oil changes. We thought the more expensive was better, not true, the oil not being no detergent was in fact 13% detergent and was ruining our engines. Remember 60 years ago things were different and paraffin oils was getting scarce and asphalt base oil came into the market now synthetic, quite a change. So too really understand what you are using is important. Remembering the most expensive is not necessarily the best for your application. There is a world of difference in engines, two stroke, four stroke,gas powered, diesel powered, propane powered that use all difference base oils. I agree light weight oil flows better returns faster and needs less power distribute the flow, so now the properties in the oil are very important especially in sever conditions.

134
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Mo' RPeeeeeM's?
« on: October 01, 2010, 04:31:29 AM »
Picking up 1000 1100 Rpm takes more than a carb or manifold change. Put a nitrous system on with will power to not use it all the time a adjustable plate so you can change HP. You won't need much of a shot to get the rpm you want. Probably he cheapest way and you don't have to use it constantly like a big built engine. Takes will power not to abuse the nitrous, but will haul the mail,like was suggested I wouldn't turn 6 K all the time.

135
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: ford 390
« on: September 30, 2010, 02:31:38 AM »
I ran the 390 FE in my F- Service boat, I believe the crate engine from Ford was 375 HP. We used to turn the engine 6000 rpm during marathons thru  V DRIVE.

136
Water fitting in on each log, other fitting out from each log goes to the front of the engine in to each head, the two lines out of the thermostat housing go to fitting to each snail port out. Normanly its suggested the lowest port gets the water in the other port out to heads in. Actually they will work either way, make a neater installation and less hoses all over the place. Their are pictures on Glen -l that will show I am sure someone here has one.

137
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: compression problem, help????
« on: September 28, 2010, 07:36:15 AM »
Sorry, must have been another post, he had a hydraulic lifter cam

138
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: compression problem, help????
« on: September 28, 2010, 04:09:05 AM »
The picture of your lifters showed the cup down in the lifter. It would seem to me the valves are not lifting the valve to specs and letting enough air in.. The compression needs an amount of air coming in to perform the task, One reaon for having the throttle open when performing the task.

139
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: What oil should I run?
« on: September 28, 2010, 04:02:26 AM »
Whatever oil you choose to run has to form a film or cushion of oil to keep the the bearing off the journals. The pressure keeps the oil with that film to do so. If the pressure becomes too low it can't do so and the bearing drags on the journal causing wear. The clearances of the bearings is what determines the viscosity to supply need to form this cushion.
The viscosity of the oil under severe heat is needed to keep this cushion up, so if 15-40 or a 20-50 is used the first number is what is performing the job, the second number is what it does under severe heat and usage to maintain the the job the first number of the oils weight.


140
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Fuel issue
« on: September 17, 2010, 03:58:08 AM »
Be sure the vent is not plugged. Start at the tank first, easy on the air so as not to damage the pickup tube. If fuel flows from the tank then go towards the motor and check anything going that way. Some of the fuel cells use foam in them to keep the fuel from sloshing.

141
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Dumb Luck...?
« on: September 17, 2010, 03:50:14 AM »
After years on the race circuit I have found on oil lines even with push lock fittings will come off. Now some will say BS however have seen it and had it happen to me. So I add clamps to the lines and safety wire all fittings. Same goes with water fitting they also fly off. I check mine every time I go out to be sure, engines are too expensive to replace. Call it preventive maintenance, just my .02 cents.

142
As you stated black smoke is fuel sounds like the floats are high and flooding the plenum

143
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: New Oil
« on: September 15, 2010, 12:39:06 PM »
All oils have their place in the market however the zinc has been removed or lowered in most oils.I myself use Shell Rotella 15-40 and does a great job. It is recommended for all types of Diesel engines. It is used in Diesel engine's that demand more than a car or boat needs. A can of zinc additive added will cover that problem.
A diesel engine use 15-18 - 1 compression and close bearing clearances. Severe heat is also a factor in Diesel engines.Temps normal 200-212 , oil temps are also high.The wear on a diesel rod and crank is on the top shell due to the high compression and when you take them apart the bottom looks like new. Difference ,If this oil can suffice for those engines it will work just fine in the boat.
For the oil to do its work everything in the installation of the components, has to be precise if not at that point it doesn't matter what price the oil is.

144
The No Wake Zone / Re: look
« on: September 14, 2010, 08:55:50 AM »
The folks here are not demeaning and sarcastic of one another and that puts them above some of the forums .This way one can post and receive a honest answer without ridicule. Ralph does a great job of maintaining good relations and good members who deserve credit.

145
The No Wake Zone / Re: Am I too slow?
« on: September 13, 2010, 02:47:56 AM »
AGAIN HV   oil pumps pump 25% more oil not MORE PRESSURE

146
Jet Pumps / Re: shifting vibrations in my hull
« on: September 08, 2010, 05:31:54 AM »
Flywheel or flexplate loose? Harmonic tight? driveline, how long has this been going on?

147
Hulls / Re: transom block off plates
« on: September 07, 2010, 10:06:50 AM »
Home Depot has a 2, 3 ,4 inch plug for pipe, to close the hole, not ugly but not show.

148
Hulls / Re: Help IDing Hull
« on: September 06, 2010, 02:30:29 AM »
1973 for titles

149
The No Wake Zone / Re: Am I too slow?
« on: September 06, 2010, 02:28:53 AM »
Oil pressure should be 10 lbs for every thousand Rpm, also a oil accumulator is a good addition at least a 1 1/2 quart one.

150
The No Wake Zone / Re: Going in for my first MRI..
« on: September 02, 2010, 02:48:11 AM »
I have been on morphine twice a day for back pain. It's a low dose and keeps the pain to a 5. If it gets too bad, add Oxycontin, I try not too. I have stenosis, narrowing of the nerves running down thru the spine. I got the tentative hospital bill, three hour stay ER  $6000.00 unbelievable.

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