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Messages - Josh@JBP

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126
Projects / Re: Here's my 78 Brendella
« on: March 13, 2008, 05:45:05 PM »
HOT DAMN!!!!  


I got off early tonight and when I got home I found setting on the table waiting to be opened was a box from JBP!!!!  


Felt like a kid at Xmas as I tried to ripped the industrial strength packing tape open..........  


There, got it off.........


Opened the box and pulled away all the foam packing fabric...................


HOLY MUTHA F>CKER...........


Two drop dead gorgeous water jetted engine plates for my motor........... ;D


Tommy, those thing are awesome.  I'll try to post up some pictures but the quality of these things are NICE!!!

Folks, iff'n you're in need of some and don't have the talent that Ralph and his Pops have, don't hesitate to pull the trigger on these.  They're very nice..........(typical JPB quality)


Hello we are Jet Boat Performance and we approve this message. ;D ;D ;D

127
Jet Pumps / Re: bowl stuffer installation..how to..pics/install
« on: March 13, 2008, 11:32:03 AM »
It looks like I have .359 clearance between the bowl and the impeller (which is an aluminum A BTW) with an ID of 5.9 ish (it is hard to measure due to the bowl size and caliper configuration.
:o  Thats a big gap.  You should however wait and measure that clearance again after everything else is rebuilt.  If you use a shouldered wear ring alot may change.   

With that much clearance the pumpshaft may have been cut to move the impeller forward, in an effort to tighten up front side clearance(sometimes the impeller hub is cut instead).  Thats an old practice pump builders did b4 shouldered wear rings, and some still do. Often times they would also cut the register on the bowl to tighten up back side clearence (no stuffer needed).

128
Jet Pumps / Re: Early Dominator info
« on: March 13, 2008, 11:16:27 AM »
Thanks Josh- it does say mar-bud on the serial tag.  It all looks pretty original as of now- no snoot or diverter- yet- I don't really know the history of the pump so I am trying to prepare for the worst- Can the older pumps be update to accept the stainless shaft, HP Bearings, and newer style impellers or is it better to go with the american turbine impellers- sorry for all the questions- thanks for all the answers

American Turbine is Dominator, so any impeller your going to buy from them is going to be the same casting, they just cut the wearring skirt down from standard  1" to 3/4" if you were to use the original style wear ring.  However if you are going to rebuild it with a new impeller it only makes scence to replace the wear ring with the modern style. The shaft you have is stainless, it's just a standard grade of stainless.  To upgrade to the HP bearing kit would not be, IMO, putting your money in the best place, the standard replacement bearing is going to last you and do everything you want it to do up to huge HP#. 
-Josh

129
Jet Pumps / Re: jet pump maintenance
« on: March 13, 2008, 10:38:53 AM »
Any advantage to using synthetic 90 wt in a berk?

The Glacier Bearings we use in these pumps are permanently lubed (PTFE coated).  I've run mine water lubed for years(no bowl plug or seal like the old Dominators).  So to answere your question I would run the most inexpencive oil you could fine, or convert it to grease lubed.

130
Jet Pumps / Re: Early Dominator info
« on: March 13, 2008, 10:34:04 AM »
The new barge has an early dominator 12s-  Any body have thoughts or info on these pumps- I was looking on American Turbine's site and they have all these upgrades and hp kits - just looking for the low down on these pumps-

When you say early is it a Mar-Bud Casting? They are great pumps and very strong (thick castings).   Early Dominators aren't all that different than late Dominators, the mixing bowl has been improved through the years as have the impellers.  New models come standard with a 17-4 Race strenght shaft, and an HP Bearing kit. Rebuild kits are readilly available.  Replacement wear rings are available with a 1" skirts to use a standard American Turbine impeller now.  The exit side of the original bowl can be opened up from 5.5" to 6.25" to help them flow better (especially when coupled with a droop). 

Warning: The original glacier bearings in these bowls are water lubricated also, which is fine, but the bowl is prone to severe cracking when the bushings and sleave are pressed out.

133
Hulls / Re: restoring wood swimstep?
« on: March 12, 2008, 12:01:44 PM »
Correct, no stains or water sealer's, oil the sh!t out of it and it will be golden.
x2

134
The No Wake Zone / Re: Gentleman, I truly hope you like my new avatar
« on: March 10, 2008, 06:25:37 PM »
You do seem to have that concept down don't you?
Indeed ;D

135
The No Wake Zone / Re: Gentleman, I truly hope you like my new avatar
« on: March 10, 2008, 06:16:01 PM »
Come on guys.  It's 2008.   Experiment a little   O0

I'll stick with proven concepts...."baby makin 101"

136
Projects / Re: BAHNER
« on: March 10, 2008, 05:47:24 PM »
Is $750 the norm for carpet :banghead:

I might have to do it myself ???
2sav
Do they give you a reach arround with that price ???  For that price they ought to hem the edges and put snaps in for quick removal like the roll bar boats.

Do it your self: http://www.boatcarpetbuys.com/boatcarpet-type/321-8--Wide-16oz-Marine-Carpet.asp Just one of the places I found on a google search

137
The No Wake Zone / Re: Gentleman, I truly hope you like my new avatar
« on: March 10, 2008, 05:41:35 PM »
Did he sit on the bunny :o :o :o :o :o

138
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Dist. to lock or not to lock?
« on: March 10, 2008, 05:26:32 PM »
I really like this idea.  I'm wanting to do the same and would love to hear the particulars.  I'm running an all MSD system but without the start retard they sell. 

One way to do it would be to hook the white wire on the box up to a switch to ground it out, that kills the spark.  Then get it cranking and throw the switch.  Kinda like a Magneto.  You can also double this as the kill switch.

You can also isolate the ignition wire to a separate switch.

139
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: "shotgun Bill" air scoop
« on: March 10, 2008, 11:49:20 AM »
I have one and they do look cool, but hooking up the butterfly's is all up to you. I am still trying to find something that will reverse the "throw" . And from what I have seen/found so far either the linkage kits cost more than the scoop itself did, or it simply wont work. Here is what I have so far, but the linkage rod doesn't flow with everything else. I am trying to get the "red" actuator arm in the down position and still have it throw the flaps in the right direction (top of butterflies inward). It works great now, but as the picture shows it just looks out of place.
What if you moved the tie bar and the scoop linkage to the bottom of the carburetor linkage, then you should be able to flip the red arm arround.

140
Projects / Re: Here's my 78 Brendella
« on: March 08, 2008, 12:56:13 PM »
Love is a funny thing, there always seems to be enough to go around.   ;)

True, but food and money are a different thing ::) ;D

141
The No Wake Zone / Re: Place your bets
« on: March 08, 2008, 12:46:14 PM »
65.2........ dare to be different O 8)

142
The No Wake Zone / Re: Newbies chime in please
« on: March 08, 2008, 11:42:31 AM »
thats the only way mines getting there
Try taking out another shim from your shoe :D

143
Projects / Re: '71 Tahiti Rebuild
« on: March 08, 2008, 11:26:02 AM »
There is one other thing my engine guy swears by,  that I still am not to sure about, but maybe this is the place/post to to clear it up.
I bought oil restrictors for my first build and when I gave them to Don (engine guy) he asked what they were for ( I know he knew but he wanted to drive his point home), when I told him he threw the bag in the trash  :o, I about shit, then asked what the hell he did that for, and his response was that if I wanted to slow the flow to the top end we would just put smaller holes in the cam bearings. It made sense, and I wasn't going to convince him otherwise so I let him run with it. It seemed to do the trick, but I still wonder ????
Any comments ????
That would be called a "free mod", flip it over and drill a smaller hole in the cam bearing instead of spending extra money on the restrictors.

You can restrict the oil later by installing a roll pin in each of your pushrods, instead of buying "restricted pushrods" :screwy:.....hand full of roll pins < $5  restricted Pushrods  $200+ :o

144
Projects / Re: Here's my 78 Brendella
« on: March 08, 2008, 11:21:37 AM »

On a WAY WAY cooler note, we got word last night that I get to be a gramps for the second time next weekend!!!!  They're going to induce Sara Friday night and I get to hold that little bugger very soon.....Yahooo  ;D



Must be somethin in the water ;D  Congrats!!!

145
The No Wake Zone / Re: Newbies chime in please
« on: March 07, 2008, 03:09:02 PM »
Yeah i know :'(
2sav :banghead:

Guess it's the pot calling the kettle black, my little white boat is the same way (never together), but it ought to be in one piece again soon.  ;)

146
The No Wake Zone / Re: Newbies chime in please
« on: March 07, 2008, 02:49:46 PM »
If thats his boat, then this one is mine :o
FOS :banghead:

2sav ;D

Couldn't Be that ones in the water ;D J/K

147
The No Wake Zone / Re: Newbies chime in please
« on: March 07, 2008, 02:29:57 PM »
Here's a pic of my boat, hasn't been in the water since I broke my back in 2005, I'm back and ready to run.
76 Rayson Craft, 466 BBF, nothing super racey, just a mild cam and some head work.


So the boats for sale and it has a 390 in it........interesting
http://www.boatboss.com/boats/36_San_Francisco/posts/6_High_performance_Boats/31_V_Drives_For_Sale/929_1976_Rayson_V_Drive_speed_boat_for_sale.html

148
The No Wake Zone / Re: Newbies chime in please
« on: March 07, 2008, 12:57:59 PM »
I had Jim Rich help me with my setup, trust me, you don't want any of this!

I guess I'm confused, thats either fightn words or caveat emptor, either way the picture makes me laugh :D

149
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: SPARK PLUGS/ SWITCHIN IGNITIONS
« on: March 07, 2008, 11:26:51 AM »
Arent you running the Brodix Aluminum heads?   I'd try giving them a call they should be able to give you a real good baseline.

150
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Dist. to lock or not to lock?
« on: March 07, 2008, 11:13:48 AM »
I'm using the Crane Distributor w/ electric advance (no counter weights) , it has 8 degrees when cranking and as soon as it fires and idles (1000-1100rpms) it advances to 16 with a total of 32 all in at 1600 rpms.    I still like to get it cranking and throw the switch.

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