If you had a pick of any 1970 - 1990 hull to build a boat from the ground up.  What would be the top three hull's.

Hands down a Daytona, TPR then a Placecraft.

Tunnels>Gullwings JMO 

The shoe doesn't only load the pump but also adds lift. When you add lift the boat needs something to rock back on. That's where the ride plate comes into play. If you are going to cut the intake for the shoe why not do the plate too. It's only going to help. Especially with that big boat and more power.

Also, my boat has cav plates and a shoe and ride plate set up. 


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anyone else having to wait FOREVER for parts I ordered billet battery terminals, 12 terminal block, terminal jumpers, holley throttle bracket, n 460 thermo housing. Where else do i look

Its hard to get good customer service anywhere anymore, REX is the worst and Dana is always crap and takes too long. If its specific boat stuff ill just go to my local boat shop and grab it or order it. OR i go here http://www.mcmaster.com/ for bolts, air lines, electrical stuff.. Ect

Well there was a nice little monsoon Thant came in at about 330 yesterday. Made thing really exciting for about 45 minutes. It's a beautiful day for some river fun! See you guys out there!!!


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Iam here!!!!


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Goose Flats this morning.


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SO MUCH HATE RIGHT NOW!!!!

This isn't a boat?? WTF?
Helping my buddy with his drift car. KA turbo deal.


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It's just a MSD HEI  65k coil and 10.5mm wires nothing fancy


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I would go with .40


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I have a standard 454 chevy with a demon 850cfm single with vac secondaries. Timing is at about 34.

Originally I just threw the carb on it and ran it. It would choke itself out as soon as the secondaries opened up. Turned out it had 67's in the front, 75's in the rear.

I bumped it up to 80 front / 81 rear to see if it would fix the issue, which it did, but now its running super fat.... tons of exhaust soot all over the transom. I havent even bothered pulling a plug to read it as im sure they are black as night.

I dropped it back down to 75 front / 75 rear...I havent ran it yet, but im getting sick of messing with it......is this a good baseline to go with on this setup? seems like im all over the place and this might be a good 1/2 way point.

Is the timing locked out brad? i would start with the 75's

I run Lucas 20/50 in my 461. I would say stay with the 20/50


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Hey guys I just got done polishing my headers and I put 4gs into my engine this year. Haven't had it out yet, but I'm debating whether to run my headers wet or dry...I want to run them wet cause its safer and theres not as much heat in the engine bay but I'm having a hard time justifying doing it know that I might suck some water in and blow a valve or worse. Does anyone have a good system set up for wet headers? I have the lines and the bassett t-valve with spring and ball but I still dont think that shuts the water pressure off fast enough from when you take your foot off the gas to when the ball in the valve cuts off the flow. It seems like there no way of getting rid of that lag..does anyone have a solution for this? Thanks!


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Solution. Run em dry.
Depending on the lift and duration of your cam, that will tell you if you can run em wet or not. I was told anything over 550 lift was a no no for wet headers.


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Oak tree deal in Glendora with a crapy doors cover band. At least there is cold beer!


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