Curious about using a "C" bowl with a ride plate. How do you support the back of the plate off the bowl? There is no extension to the bowl where you can drill and tap for a cradle and no flange to allow you to use turn buckles... you're also stuck with the thrust height.

My bowl is also drilled to accept this cradle (2 set screws on either side of pin). Unfortunately, I don't know if this is factory for my bowl, or if some one just drilled them because I do not have that cradle or a ride plate.



 

Is that all you've got guys???

That's what I'm curious about. I have GPS speeds of this boat before work done, and am going to have some of after. Supposively this factory split bowl is supposed to be good for low horsepower boats, but who knows until I try a few bowl combinations. This motor is a Cheby and is around 400-425hp, and after pump testing it's on to more horsepower 

I'm glad I kept my C bowl then because that's about how much HP I have in my sled. I also have an AB impeller, so as it sits right now, I have a great pump for my setup. I also sprayed all the interior surfaces of the pump with speed coat, will this help the efficiency of the pump any?

If you don't mind, could you get those measurements off that bowl? I'm just curious about this. My JC bowl is really nice inside, and I was told it was sent off somewhere to be rebuilt and flowed, before I bought the boat, so it's a great bowl. So, I don't really want to buy a new JG bowl, when I go to sticking hardware on the back end of it.

Where did you get your JC split bowl?

Thanks.

This has baffled me for a while now. How is a Berkeley JC bowl converted to a split bowl? Is it just cut off, until you get the right diameter for the adapters? I would think that this would look really funny. Are there any advantages to doing it, over buying a JG or JB bowl? Can I see some pictures of a converted bowl? And about how much does it cost to have it done, and who does it?

Thanks.

Which state is AJ?

Yes, where did you buy the stuff!!!

Nice to see you made it over here, Welcome  . 

 
 Progress is going slow but its getting there, plate and supports should be cut soon, the project thread is here http://www.socaljetboats.com/index.php?topic=3365.0 , it wanders a bit ( in typical So Cal fashion  ) but its all good  .

Yeah, PB's been a little slow, being July 4th weekend, so I've been reading some of the crap over here. Since, my boat's not in the water and it's not dark yet!

I didn't read all of that thread, but I looked at all the pictures and read what went along with the pictures. Looks like you've been working your ass off on that thing. It's looking good. Now just ditch the Ford!

Not sure if your still struggling with this, but here it goes.

Can we get some pictures of what you've got going on because my reverse comes out on the right side and the steering comes out on the left side. Like this. (I am not running that old PD setup anymore, that is seen in the pictures so please ignore that)


And I too have a JC style bowl. If you want to run a better bowl, I would recommend finding a JG split bowl that is in good shape. This allows you to bolt all kinds of stuff up to it, like wedges and droop snoots, and stuff like that. The only reason that I am running a JC bowl is because mine was freshly reworked when I bought the boat. It also came with a JG bowl, but that thing was a basket case and needed lots of work, and I didn't feel like doing it, so I sold that bowl on eBay. My fins in my JC bowl look basically perfect, here's a pic. And I shouldn't have to worry about them for some time now.


As far as making them look good, I just stripped the PC off, down to the green primer, and painted them with some white automotive paint (in a spray can), that I got at the parts store. It is very hard and looks good against the new pieces. The good thing about paint is that if you get a chip in it, you can just spray it again. You can't do that with PC. And if you do a good amount of prep work, the paint should last awhile on there. I also used an acid etching primer before painting. And sanded the aluminum smooth before priming, and wet sanded with fine sandpaper between all coats, and it turned out very smooth and hard.

Hope this helps.

Propless, the shoe looks just right. Perhaps the fact you were measuring against a "C" bowl ,not a split, is what made it look off.

There is a guy on Performance Boats that could use pictures of the reverse cable bracket for that old long diverter. All he currently has is that long nozzle and matching reverse bucket and is trying to figure out how to make it all work. One of his options is to modify the "current" reverse cable bracket to the early configuration.

I gave up on that quest now, and just said F'it and bought a brand spankin' new PD (and I had the ball too, I had everything but the 2 damn brackets).

What's the progress on this? Did you ever get it made up? How did it turn out?

I would cut it at a nice, even 20" and go from there. Don't forget to put stiffening bars on there, so the plate won't flex, when the boat is riding on it.

What a great find man. You got a hell of a deal!!!

Does it have a pump brace on the inside of the boat? To hold the intake down. When they are set back there is more force applied to the intake because of the additional leverage created by the greater amount of pump sticking out of the boat. If it doesn't, then this is probably the cause of the cracks around the intake on the bottom of the boat.

Here's a picture of a pump brace.