I think it is aggressor or miersch?

Lookin good! That does look like an Aggressor, which is essentially a similar design w/ suttle differences.  It's actually a copy of a copy of a Miersch, at least thats how Roy explained it to me.


Profesional Performance Products Intake or "Miersch"

that right there is true; if you were closer I'd go 2 cases and have you make the cut 

With as much beer as I drink, you wouldn't want me cutting a hole after a Tall Boy

It's waaayyy down on the list but I was thinking of cutting a hole directly above the hand hole for better access; problem is, I don't know what to rig there to cover the hole.

My Glastron has one of these above the inspection cover on the E-pump that actually goes into the hull/engine compartment

Looks like the short Bellhousing, as I suspected.  Panthers typically use the long driveline assembly with a short bellhousing  to get their depth/ DL engagement correct, where Berkeley uses a long bellhousing w/long DL or short w/short.  If you were going to use that bellhousing you would need the 6 3/4" drive line, the one that has the crank flang built on to it.

Now that I think about it, it seems like alot of horspower to put into 3 point mounts anyhow....

We usually run a ball valve infront of the header t to further regulate the water to the headers.

Replacing all the seals/gaskets adding a droop and eliminating the ride plate and other crap on it.....Its not a race boat no mo so i dont need all that crap Just want it simple

2sav

Don't eliminate the ride plate, just trim it to the correct length and adjust it acoridingly.  Just because its not a race boat doesnt mean it can't be benificial to the overal ride quality and set up.  Especially if you are going to add other hardware (like a droop)  It gives you one more level of control.  my .02, don't go backwards.

thats what i said, but he says 900.00 fine, he aint doin it

My Dad made CF numbers with electrical tape once, made the Ranger happy.  Of course weather or not it has a year sticker, thats another issue.

There you go...Another case of the "MAN" holding a brother down....

Damn the man

Cool !! Thanx.
 Would it flow more if it where cone shaped or is something else in front of it?

I spent way too much time on this one, but somewhere buried amonst more aluminum it started out as an Aggressor cone stuffer.  This one fits .025" everywhere I think i had too much time on my hands.

Here is the one I have, it looks like the mounting holes are different and champfered on the other side, hmmm, this one is 7-1/4 across 1/2 thick in the center and the taper is approx 5/16
with a 32nd on the front side (as shown in your pic.) My mounting holes are  on a 2 in radius or 4 inch circumfrence, where yours is probably closer to 6-3/4 center

I've seen ppl do that before but be carfull and seal the bolts because they go right into the oil cavity, also make sure and get drill shavings out.

That is a pretty tight fit!

I cut em small initially then take many many trips back to the bandsaw, this is also why we don't offer these plates for sale exept as an in house installation.

Well I am going to tear into my pump for the first time to install a stuffer. The pump had a new impeller and wear ring installed last summer so hopefully it'll come apart fairly easy. I am thinking/hoping all I will need to do is basically drill/tap install the stuffer plate, re-check tollerances as it goes back together. Is there anything that I should be aware of before I get this thing tore down (special machining ect.) pictures of the mounting would be sweet.

Josh, this post has your name all over it, can you hear it calling your name lol 

  If you are going to install a stuffer plate it should be pretty straight forward.  Take the bowl off, get some modeling clay (playdo) make acouple of balls the size of marbles put at least two on oposite sides of the impeller, put the bowl back on and torque it down(don't turn the shaft).  Remove and measure the squished clay with a pair of calipers, they should measure about the same, if not it wouldn't be bad idea to put a few more on and check it again.  I usually will put the same clearance on the back side of the impeller as I use on the front so take your measurment and subtract .025" -.035" and you know how thick to make your plate.  Also its not a bad idea to drill an 1/8" hole in the bottom of the stuff to drain any water that will get trapped in there.

You can also get real fancy on your stuffer and machine it to fill in the void on the impeller, but thats a whole nother story.

How reliable is the caulking?  Sorry, the Mechanical Engineer side of me is coming out!

Thats cool, If we had to fill huge gaps it probably wouldn't be the best way to do it.  But I cut the plates to fit real snug up against the housing, so i'll put a bead of caulk on the mating edge of the plate then finish it off with a nice clean bead on the outside.

you can see how tight the plates fit

So do you just silicon around the pump and the back plate? If not how do you keep the H2O out?

I havn't finished puttin the rest of the duct tape on yet








....silicone