Reason for selling? If I can sell it for what I want. We want to make a run at buying a house while the market is still low. Thats all, then we'll be back with a new boat in no time!

Wait a year THEN buy a house. Prices are still dropping.
Get a fixed loan - rates are low which means they pretty much can only move in one direction - up.

The way my acc pumps are set right now, as soon as the throttle linkage moves, the pumps start working, I tried to adjust it with the springs to keep the arms off the linkage, didn't make much of a difference. I don't have any idea what color the cams were in thier life prior to sun & gasoline, I looked at the Holley website and it seems like the black cams would be the best for my application. Any carb gurus want to chime in? The reason I ask is b/c after running at throttle, the boat wants to die heading into the 5MPH zones, or heading to the beach, seems like it's getting too much fuel? WTF do I know 

It sounds like your pumps are set up correctly. They should start squirting the instant you move the throttle, otherwise the engine will want to stall.

If you pull the cam off, there will be a number on it that corresponds to what the cam is (regardless of its current color or lack thereof)

Your issue is not with the pump cam. Could be timing, loading on the pump, or the fact the engine is hot when you back it off to the no wake zone, but cold when you adjust it before you go out.

I'm personally running the pink cam and 35 squirters.

My old trailer we went to swap out the bearings - and found somewhere along the way redneck repairs had been made. Not one of the bearings or hubs were the same, and there was even some custom made shim to get another bearing to fit. I was going to order an entire axle assy, but the trailer took care of itself (wrecked). Good luck, may it be easier on you than it was on me.

I got the Kona together and have ran it a couple of times for tunning (still playing with jetting), but was wondering about top speed.  I have an A2 that is turning 4850 (with logs, so not bad  ) and GPS'd the top speed at 61.3 mph with me (205 lbs) and dad (265 lbs).  I was wondering if the A2 was slowing me down on top speed and if so, possibly by how much?

I do have to add that I am not dissapointed with the A2 as it comes out of the hole hard and will push the boat 30 mph at ~ 2850.

I'm at 50.8 MPH at 4900 with an A in a 21 footer.

If your outlets are smaller than your inlets - it is possible that even when you need max bypass, you still won't be able to get the pressure out. Always have you out be able to flow more than the in.

My philosophy is to always have the returns, bypasses, etc always bigger than the inlet, that way the regulator / bypass valve / etc can be set and it will work under all conditions.

At a minimum a -10 would work becuase you will never have 100% flow through the bypass ( I wouldn't go any smaller than a -10 for my system). 


I'm sure others will have opinions.

I'm debating elsinore tomorrow too. Wife is out partying tonight, so somehow I think she mike put the kabosh in it - but then again I may go without her.

No they Warlocked out! They on the trailers.

But that would be almost admitting they exist!

BTW - Happy B-Day

The spacer is the 4 hole which is what I ran on the old Torker intake, do you think I should
go to the open?

A 4 hole spacer on a torker allows the single plane to work better on the bottom end - a 4 hole on a performer/performer RPM? That is a idle to 4500 RPM manifold at that point. I bet you have great throttle response though (and in a car you would feel great bottom end) and would give you better mileage. It never even crossed my mind that you would be running that combo.

Just take off the spacer and see how it does, then start adding open spacers. In my 440's in a car with a torker it seemed 2 inches open worked best, on a performer, I found it liked 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch.  Your combo WILL vary.

The performer RPM is setup to basically be a performer with about 5/8th -11/16th inch open spacer stock. No spacers on the RPM may in fact give you the best performance.

I still say it's plug wires...

The problem is you said an aggressive marine cam. What's aggressive? Who's cam is it?

It matters. A LOT. Esp in a Chevy.

If you are not running a dual spring, you are probably OK. 

This is one of the reasons I went roller, just too many worries with old technology running with new (not as good) lubricants. All new engines nowadays are rollers, no zinc required.


BTW - you don't have to tear down the engine to change the springs, you just need an air compresser to keep the valves up while you compress the spring and pull the keepers.

In stockish Big blocks in the 450 ci range(give or take) I like 750-800's on a single plane, 800-850's on a dual plane.

A dual plane pulls from only 1/2 of the carb, so you need a bigger carb to get the top end.

Personally my 455 picked up a ton (500 rpm) going from a 750 vac to a worked 850 DP in the boat on a performer dual plane with no spacers.  

I would think you have what you need, I would suggest playing with spacers, secondary springs (I like the purple one, and these do change the CFM of the carb), primary jets, Convert the secondaries to a metering block style so you can change the secondary jets (unless you are lucky enough to have a 3310-1), mill the choke horn, convert to annular discharge, play with the ignition timing.  Also before you do anything make sure the carb is at least at stock jetting (nowadays primaries are 72's for a 3310, some came with 76's in the early days)


My fav carb is the 830 annular (9381) - anything I put it on makes the engine go faster it seems.  

I agree with the vac gauge (I have one in my dash in my boat), if you are pulling over a 1.5 in Hg at WOT, the carb is too small.

Personally, esp in a Chevy, get the right stuff, wait if you have to. I personally would make the drive to the local (as it can be) GM dealer and get the EOS.

Your sig says west cov, long way from death valley.

You could look at the truck stop for the high zinc diesel engine oils.