for the record, the bridge im roosting is the 10 freeway @ blythe. I didnt hit it, but i misted the bottom pretty good.

The other bridge with 3 boats roosting it is the Avi bridge. THAT bridge is damn clean and we intend to keep it that way 

Yeah, I shoulda been clearer on that. That was Brads boat back in May, a 20+ foot cruiser mind you with only around 400 or so HP!  Hadda sit on those pics for, what, 6 months Brad?  But misting the bottom of it? The underside got a pretty clear douching the first time through.......

Who can forget the AVI bridge? One that even Moo could hit, lol. Still remember the stern "Demotivational Speech" Rivertard and I got for that stunt last year. Then we pretty much all, as a group, proceeded to hit it multiple times on the following day.......I think the dock security guy just gave up......  Sorry I didn't make it this year. Really disappointed a lot of people, including myself and the kids, but it is what it is. next year! 

Ray

Those are the top two photos on the whole site in my book Nordie!  

Funny part about the first one, and we don't see Dozzr (The boat in the foreground), or N8 for that matter (the boat in the middle), around much these days, he was TRYING to break his boat that day! Didn't do it, but did later. Can't wait to see what his new, properly huffed, motor looks like!  

Don't remember if that was Nordie or me as the far boat, I think it was Nordie!

Here's a couple I couldn't post before for the sake of B-rads recently concluded legal issues. Rivertard was the photographer using my camera from Pickle. Yes, that's the I-10 bridge over the Colorado in Blythe. Water was dripping from it when I passed through after the rear shot!  





Ray

Nick, that fits!!!!

We'll discuss 2 of those hanging out the back of my twin jet when we discuss you making jacketed 180" headers..........

Ray

thanks, i re-updated my last post and will tell you rpms, but it tops out at 4800. it just seems like for what ive done to the motor i should be getting more, i havent been in any other jet boats but mine so i have nothing to compare to. Cam 643 lift, 115 separation, cam from merc, all rocker roller.

You certainly spent some time on the motor, but as Glenn said, Final C/R, actual cam specs are really needed (MAybe a pic of the cam card).

The other thing Glenn touched on, and beleive me, not such a big deal on rebuilds and mild motors, but absolutely CRITICAL on high performance builds, is cam timing. They need to be degree'd in correctly. Most all timing sets have multiple keyways these days for this, but beyond that, there are offset keys available to make the shortblock dead balls on accurate before you go any further! It's also never a bad idea to check, again, using another method, after the valvetrain has been installed. I've never personally seen a properly degree'd in cam NOT use an offset key. Had a friend (engine builder ) explain it to me this way many years ago.

"I've never seen, even a BBC crank, where the keyway was EXACTLY where it was supposed to be. All in tolerance, but not even one exactly where it was designed to be on the spec chart. Then figure the tolerances at the cam grinder that bored the cam gear bolt holes at THEIR plant, the timing gears tolerances at theirs......... They're expecting their aftermarket stuff to be installed properly, so those particular holes are given a lot of tolerance in most cases"

Pat (ibhz), Ralph Brunt and Dave (Enginedoctor) are without doubt far more hyper-critical on measuring dimensions than I am, on everything, but this is one area I think we'd all agree on. I've kinda adopted their theory of measure, measure, measure, assemble, dissassemble, measure again, assemble, and if it's right, then repeat...........

Ray

  What ever you do dont buy a Milodon marine pan for a 460 its not designed to work on forward facing engines.

    Ran one on Moo with no problems. Only issue was it WAS a little tight to the hull in the front, but so was the Ford Racing front sump that came out of the boat, which is weird, but that engine sits VERY low in the boat. JE pump and was designed for a low profile engine cover... I haven't seen many jet boats where the engine is so low mounted, either, so I think it's a non-issue. If you got an inch of clearance, any of 'em will fit, Milodon included.

Moo's going with a Dooley this time around for that reason, and the fact that I had one, and then will have 2 Milodons for the twin jet boat...

Ray

That sucks bro !!!

 You need to go down there, crack him in the head with a cam, and stand on his neck for an hour or so (just for fun).   If he screwed that head up that bad (116 to 119), you might want to figure a way to check the angle of the head surface the other way too.  I wouldnt be surprised if that head has a bit of angle change that way too (rolled a bit in or out).   

Don't add more fuel to the fire, Proppy. I think Pat's close to the Hangin' hisself point.   

Ray

The differene of a marine carb is the vent tubes, if the carb over vents the fuel goes directly back into the carb rather than the boat. You can buy them ( J tubes) from holley or make them.

This from CP Performance. There's more to it than the vent tubes. Special throttle shafts, seals...........and more.  

READ BEFORE YOU BUY!
If it looks like a duck and quacks like a duck, it must be a duck. Right? Well, maybe. Carburetors are carburetors, but only marine carburetors should be used on boats. It's true that marine carburetors started life as regular automotive carburetors but then each took divergent paths.

Marine carburetors have certain modifications that make them uniquely adaptable and legal for marine usage. "Legal" meaning that it has the ability to pass the U.S. Coast Guard test for marine carburetors. Folks, I'm not talking about Paris Island here, either. The main qualification that a marine carburetor must meet (as set down by the U.S. Coast Guard) is that if the carburetor should "flood" only .5cc of fuel is allowed to escape in a period of 30 seconds. There's also a "backfire" test which confirms the ability of carburetors/flame arrestor combination to contain the backfire. For this reason a gasket is not used between the carburetor air horn flange and the flame arrestor. It's possible that this gasket could become saturated with fuel (if the carburetor should flood) and become a potential fire source as a result.

The primary areas of a carburetor that require some sort of modification to meet these requirements include the fuel bowl vent tubes and throttle shafts. The vent tubes of a marine carburetor are bent inwards so that the tube looks like an inverted "J". These tubes oftentimes are referred to as "J" tubes, as a result. The reason for bending the tubes inward is that if flooding should occur, the fuel that would normally come out of the fuel bowl vent tube is rerouted back into the carburetor.

Throttle shafts also get special machining attention. Shafts are "grooved" and "slabbed" to prevent fuel from exiting out the throttle shaft if flooding should occur. When a carburetor floods fuel will end up "puddling" on the throttle plates. A non-marine carburetor will allow this fuel to seep out of the throttle shaft ends and onto the manifold. This is not allowed on a marine carburetor because normally the engine is situated in an enclosed bilge where potentially deadly gasoline fuel fumes can accumulate. Throttle shafts that are "grooved" and "slabbed" channel the flooded fuel safely down into the intake manifold. With no raw fuel allowed to puddle on the manifold outside the carburetor, there is no chance of deadly fuel fumes to accumulate in the bilge and no chance of explosion or fire.

For these reasons an automotive carburetor should NEVER be used in a marine application

Ray

I thought the Summet racing fuel pump was a pretty good pump? Some friends I got it from seemed to think so. Are they really just Chinese crap?

That's just my opinion. I don't know where they source their house brands from really. When I bought Moo, it had a fresh 460 with a thrown #1 rod. The engine had a Summit pan, roller rockers and fuel pump on in. The pan seemed pretty thin and cheesy to me, so it's just a parts bin now, and the kids made christmas tree decorations out of the roller rockers..........

The fuel pump is still laying around here somewhere, never used it. I put a Clay Smith on the boat when I built it. With twin 750's, would hold 7 PSI forever on 3/8" hoses and a pretty restrictive electric tank selector valve. 

On a Mini Day though, enclosed engine compartment, motor sounds much milder than it's 540 CI would indicate, you're still going to have to have to go with a Dominator to get above the 850 CFM for a marine rated carb. I'd be doing it! All stock marine 460's came with 750's, and from what I've seen and experienced, an 850 wakes them up a LOT. You've got a helluva lot more cubes (around +20% ) even if the cam is about stock.

If you do this, or, if it were "ME", I'd be looking at the Stealth intake as well, or a Victor with a dommy flange and the 1050 Marine Dominator. They do not make a 950 CFM 4150 in a marine version. There's more to these marine carbs than just the "J" vent tubes!  And since I seem to have, and be gaining more, experience with burning boats, I will not run a street/strip carb on any boat, enclosed engine or not.    I'd also be looking at Lightning water jacketed headers............

Ray

These werk for ya? 





Ray

Sorry for your loss Gord    I know what it's like.

Want a slightly retarded Springer?    This dogs getting dumber by the minute........Even lil Moo rolls her eyes at him!

Ray

1050 or 1150 Dominator is what I'd run. Sounds like a pretty badass motor. Problem is, you should change the intake to a dommy flange as well, or you'll need adaptors which might affect the impact of the dominator. Might want to consider a 950 4150 base carb.     I also think the 3/8 fuel hose is just fine. Personally, and I like mechanicals over electric on these things, I only run Clay Smith mechanical pumps. I really view the Summit brand as just cheap Chinese copies of a Holley (The Mr Gasket you tossed is the same thing as the Holley). Be careful dealing with them over the phone as they are interested in their Gross Margin as much as anyone. It's important to remember we operate these boats in the 3000-6000 rpm range ALL THE TIME, not the same as a street engine. 

I had the same dying out at WFO part "like it was running out of gas" with Pickle at the end of last year and part of this year. Turns out it was a combination of an internal vaccum leak on the 750 (Warped metering block), a PCV valve and a serious vacuum leak at the carb base (also warped). That carb has been retired to "parts carb" status,  . It now runs an 850 Vac Sec'y just fine, and might be just a coincidence, but the Vac advance HEI was replaced with a Mechanical Mallory Unilite, 6AL box and Procoil as well. This is on a pretty mild 454 Chebbie though, but holds 5200 RPM all day long if you want it to. 

Ray

Dave is Orange to the Core! 

Yes, HD sells MEK. Yes, I agree with Glenn it works much better than Acetone. Not only less toxic, but lets you hit the areas with a scrub brush, THEN wipe it up. Learning all this fiberglass work myself, and my Paint Manager put me onto this method..........he's a boater, but not to the extreme the rest of us are! 

I'll post pics of his Eliminator one of these days. Not a jet, but a bad ass boat none the less! 

Ray

My first car? '73 Nova SS that I dropped a 427 in. Bad ass car!

Coolest car I ever had was a '69 Firebird 400 convertible. Rebuilt that one from the ground up, almost all original.

Emailed my mom to see if she still has pictures of either of them she can scan  .

G/F wants me outta boats and just build a 66/67 Cutlass next (Her first car)..........we'll see......... I'm leaning towards a
66/67 GTO, a '64 Plymouth Sport Fury or possibly a '66 Charger as my street rod project next summer...........

Ray