1576
The No Wake Zone / Re: EARTHQUAKE
« on: July 29, 2008, 12:34:50 PM »
HIt Whittier area pretty good.
Stuff was swaying everywhere.Freaked out the Cats!
Stuff was swaying everywhere.Freaked out the Cats!
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1577
Jet Pumps / Re: Plastigage accuracy?
« on: July 27, 2008, 12:47:35 PM »
Look into a Good "dial bore guage"....
1578
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Opinions on cranks
« on: July 22, 2008, 07:16:06 PM »
Agreed..... Also steel cranks (at a glance) you can see the wide parting line.
also, cast cranks, have a very small parting line......
also, cast cranks, have a very small parting line......
1579
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Opinions on cranks
« on: July 20, 2008, 01:48:50 PM »
The G.M. steel cranks can handle alot.
Look for casting # 7416...This crank is factory
nitrided and cross drilled by the factory.
Look for casting # 7416...This crank is factory
nitrided and cross drilled by the factory.
1580
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Piston swapping
« on: May 08, 2008, 04:56:24 PM »
I think cast pistons are a good choice for what you are doing. 
1581
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Chevy crankshaft clearance
« on: May 06, 2008, 05:39:52 PM »
Finish that "454"..... Piece of cake... Tech. Questions are free, give me a call.
1583
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Chevy crankshaft clearance
« on: May 05, 2008, 04:54:56 PM »
That is what pre-assy is for... too check clearances, etc. THEN, final assy. 
1584
The No Wake Zone / Re: What car do you Drive ?
« on: April 25, 2008, 05:26:43 PM »
Daily Driver 73' S.S. El Camino..... For fun etc. 66' Vette.
1585
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Valve Lash
« on: April 23, 2008, 05:50:47 PM »
I've seen some tight stuff..... Be carefull with Valve to piston chasing. 
1586
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Valve Lash
« on: April 22, 2008, 09:25:11 PM »
Get with your cam grinder for proper lash... my best advise.
1587
The No Wake Zone / Engine Assy Tips...Part 6.
« on: April 22, 2008, 07:13:16 PM »
Anyone out there need pointers 
If so post it and I will follow - up.
If so post it and I will follow - up.
1588
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: engine building tips. part 5. "BASIC/COMMON CYLINDER HEAD WORK"
« on: April 17, 2008, 03:54:34 PM »
oops.... G-32 was " P/NC.---Programmable numerical control..! Big diff. Huh?
1589
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: engine building tips. part 5. "BASIC/COMMON CYLINDER HEAD WORK"
« on: April 17, 2008, 09:36:20 AM »
Yes ! This machine from end to end was probably 100ft long.
the chip conveyor alone was twice that.. I ran this thing to
turn exit cones ,(exaust).... The buttons on the control panel
were about the size of a silver dollar! and of course, multi-turret.
the chip conveyor alone was twice that.. I ran this thing to
turn exit cones ,(exaust).... The buttons on the control panel
were about the size of a silver dollar! and of course, multi-turret.
1590
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: engine building tips. part 5. "BASIC/COMMON CYLINDER HEAD WORK"
« on: April 17, 2008, 09:19:52 AM »
Yes! Late "70's" !! It was called a " G-32, made by Given".
It was huge. Tartan ind. in L.A. used them for manufacturing of missiles.
look into it .
It was huge. Tartan ind. in L.A. used them for manufacturing of missiles.
look into it .
1591
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: engine building tips. part 5. "BASIC/COMMON CYLINDER HEAD WORK"
« on: April 16, 2008, 06:33:38 PM »
No I don't... I have an associate that takes care of flow bench work.
Rather than that type of in-house work; I chose to get into Lathe / Millwork !
Back in the "70's" I was a CNC operator fabricating "Missiles", and I have my father
taking care of the mill/lathe manufacturing end of the bus. He has well over "60" yrs.exp.!
And I have my hands full with the engine end of the bus. , as I do all of the work from start
to finish. This way we can make / fix most any parts..... shafts/threads/gears,etc.
We have many machine shops that cannot perform this type of work and rely on our exp.
for tooling/manufacturing/prototype work and so on.
Rather than that type of in-house work; I chose to get into Lathe / Millwork !
Back in the "70's" I was a CNC operator fabricating "Missiles", and I have my father
taking care of the mill/lathe manufacturing end of the bus. He has well over "60" yrs.exp.!
And I have my hands full with the engine end of the bus. , as I do all of the work from start
to finish. This way we can make / fix most any parts..... shafts/threads/gears,etc.
We have many machine shops that cannot perform this type of work and rely on our exp.
for tooling/manufacturing/prototype work and so on.
1592
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / engine building tips. part 5. "BASIC/COMMON CYLINDER HEAD WORK"
« on: April 15, 2008, 06:02:17 PM »
Basic Cylinder Head Service:
{Hopefully you have seen "Engine Building Tips #1 thru #4... so we will skip cleaning/inspection}
1. build the heads according to your cam spec. card as rec'd, and engine combination.
2. install new valve guides to assure concentricity and long life, must be done for seat work.
{ I prefer bronze guide liners )
3. Grind valves and seats to establish correct contact point/flow and tip lenth.
4. Check decks for straightness, mill/equalize as needed for equal "C.C.s".
5. Check clearances for valve train.
6. I prefer to lap valve/seat prior to assembly of heads.... ( it assures a better seal )
7. Pre-lube cylinder head assy and vac.test chambers after final cyl. head assy.
This procedure has worked well for me and I've done this work my whole life.
Above and beyond your basic stuff.... you have : porting/polishing ,dusting chambers,
bowl blending/undercutting/ int./ex.
work....and much more!
{Hopefully you have seen "Engine Building Tips #1 thru #4... so we will skip cleaning/inspection}
1. build the heads according to your cam spec. card as rec'd, and engine combination.
2. install new valve guides to assure concentricity and long life, must be done for seat work.
{ I prefer bronze guide liners )
3. Grind valves and seats to establish correct contact point/flow and tip lenth.
4. Check decks for straightness, mill/equalize as needed for equal "C.C.s".
5. Check clearances for valve train.
6. I prefer to lap valve/seat prior to assembly of heads.... ( it assures a better seal )
7. Pre-lube cylinder head assy and vac.test chambers after final cyl. head assy.
This procedure has worked well for me and I've done this work my whole life.
Above and beyond your basic stuff.... you have : porting/polishing ,dusting chambers,
bowl blending/undercutting/ int./ex.
work....and much more!
1593
The No Wake Zone / Re: "todays fuel. v.s. your engine"
« on: April 09, 2008, 04:50:11 PM »
Thank,s for your input...it all sounds good so far
1594
The No Wake Zone / "todays fuel. v.s. your engine"
« on: April 08, 2008, 06:29:38 PM »
I can remember back when fuel was $0.20 cents a gallon and it smelled cool!
yesterday's engines will not perform well on what you get from the pump today PERIOD!!
" I have people come in all the time.... they had their engine built somewhere and they
say it does not perform well".
1. don't put the carriage ahead of the horse and blame your engine builder.
2. find a carb. and ignition specialist and have them calibrated based on your engine spec.sheet.
3. this needs to be done before, NOT AFTER you fire up your new engine.
4. also, engine oil today, has a lack of zinc... camshaft failure by various cam grinders
and engine builders blame cam failure on this.... and I agree.
we are limited to restrictions and they will impact the way these engines perform.
" just do your best to protect your engine by proper tuning and break-in, oil & fuel."
yesterday's engines will not perform well on what you get from the pump today PERIOD!!
" I have people come in all the time.... they had their engine built somewhere and they
say it does not perform well".
1. don't put the carriage ahead of the horse and blame your engine builder.
2. find a carb. and ignition specialist and have them calibrated based on your engine spec.sheet.
3. this needs to be done before, NOT AFTER you fire up your new engine.
4. also, engine oil today, has a lack of zinc... camshaft failure by various cam grinders
and engine builders blame cam failure on this.... and I agree.
we are limited to restrictions and they will impact the way these engines perform.
" just do your best to protect your engine by proper tuning and break-in, oil & fuel."
1595
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / engine building tips part 4. "CRANKSHAFT WORK/BASIC".
« on: April 06, 2008, 07:02:21 PM »
1. choices... cast/forged forged is best.
2. "crank inspection";... check rod/main for size.
3. check snout for wear/ balancer bolt threads/ crank main thrust for wear.
4. "performance crank grind" ... should include the following.
clean/inspect/mag./check rod throw width/checkmain width/ straighten / cut centers,
grind rods/mains,polish and chamfer, / radius fillet areas. hold tolerances at +/- .0001/10.
5. check and adjust rod throw / detail crank, deburr and prep. for assy.
6. blueprint / balance all components / final inspection by assembler.
these are basics only people.... for those of you that want to ad to this , feel free
7. stay away from your $ 30.00 crank grind , welds,,, etc... you get what you pay for
and this is by no means an area to fool around
8. many operations to numerous to mention are available , such as :
cross drilling / strenthening / cold casing / offset grinding / knife edging ,
1/4 key crank, and much more.
this is just "BASIC STUFF".
hope this helps you ...... next time "CYLINDER HEAD WORK"!
forged is best. 2. "crank inspection";... check rod/main for size.
3. check snout for wear/ balancer bolt threads/ crank main thrust for wear.
4. "performance crank grind" ... should include the following.
clean/inspect/mag./check rod throw width/checkmain width/ straighten / cut centers,
grind rods/mains,polish and chamfer, / radius fillet areas. hold tolerances at +/- .0001/10.
5. check and adjust rod throw / detail crank, deburr and prep. for assy.
6. blueprint / balance all components / final inspection by assembler.
these are basics only people.... for those of you that want to ad to this , feel free
7. stay away from your $ 30.00 crank grind , welds,,, etc... you get what you pay for
and this is by no means an area to fool around
8. many operations to numerous to mention are available , such as :
cross drilling / strenthening / cold casing / offset grinding / knife edging ,
1/4 key crank, and much more.
this is just "BASIC STUFF".
hope this helps you ...... next time "CYLINDER HEAD WORK"!
1596
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: engine building tips part 3. "CONNECTING ROD WORK".
« on: March 31, 2008, 04:52:57 PM »
M and M racing. i will give you a call. thanks!
1597
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: engine building tips part 3. "CONNECTING ROD WORK".
« on: March 31, 2008, 09:24:28 AM »
thank 's for reading "BASIC CONN.ROD WORK'.
you might add that bushing rods for floating pins,rod lightening, cap and rod
chamfering,deburring @ parting lines before mating ends need to be done.
drilling for pin oiling, etc. but some of this is not basic stuff.
you might add that bushing rods for floating pins,rod lightening, cap and rod
chamfering,deburring @ parting lines before mating ends need to be done.
drilling for pin oiling, etc. but some of this is not basic stuff.
1598
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / engine building tips part 3. "CONNECTING ROD WORK".
« on: March 30, 2008, 05:01:58 PM »
1. clean/glass bead conn. rods and inspect for cracks and flaws such as stress risers which could result in failure. grind off stress risers and debur rods as needed.... detail and extensive rod work in this area can make the difference.
2. in this i will use stock lenth chevy 350/383 rods as an example: lenth...5.700.
3. check rod lenth from center to center..[center of rod eye/small rist pin end and center of big end, rod bearing end....do your math and achieve the rod lenth that you need , the purpose of this is to have all rods the same lenth .]
4. inspect the rist pin ends for proper I/D.
5. before having rods machined have new high quality rod bolt assy's installed prior to machining!
6. in this case the rod bore on the big end will be , [2.224 7/10 to 2.225 2/10].
7. you only have .000 5/10 tolerance and this is critical !!!
8. try and find a set of rods that weigh close to the same before you invest .
9. make sure that you balance the rotating and reciprocating weights of all of your parts!
10. proper sizing and pre-assy. will result in crutial oil clearances , which is an absolute must to check during pre-assy.
11. if you decide to buy a new set of rods and are going to assume that everything is correct, you are mistaken.... someone made the rods and someone machined them, wether on cnc. or conventional equipment.. double check the work. this is not being critical , just careful!!
12. this is only basic rod work stuff and it is up to the engine assembler to check the work.
next time we will go into "CRANKSHAFT WORK"....... hope this helps you guys....see-ya.
2. in this i will use stock lenth chevy 350/383 rods as an example: lenth...5.700.
3. check rod lenth from center to center..[center of rod eye/small rist pin end and center of big end, rod bearing end....do your math and achieve the rod lenth that you need , the purpose of this is to have all rods the same lenth .]
4. inspect the rist pin ends for proper I/D.
5. before having rods machined have new high quality rod bolt assy's installed prior to machining!
6. in this case the rod bore on the big end will be , [2.224 7/10 to 2.225 2/10].
7. you only have .000 5/10 tolerance and this is critical !!!
8. try and find a set of rods that weigh close to the same before you invest .
9. make sure that you balance the rotating and reciprocating weights of all of your parts!
10. proper sizing and pre-assy. will result in crutial oil clearances , which is an absolute must to check during pre-assy.
11. if you decide to buy a new set of rods and are going to assume that everything is correct, you are mistaken.... someone made the rods and someone machined them, wether on cnc. or conventional equipment.. double check the work. this is not being critical , just careful!!
12. this is only basic rod work stuff and it is up to the engine assembler to check the work.
next time we will go into "CRANKSHAFT WORK"....... hope this helps you guys....see-ya.
1599
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / engine building tips part 2. "CYLINDER BLOCK WORK"
« on: March 29, 2008, 11:05:45 AM »
1. inspect for cracks/flaws on the block decks around the cylinder head bolt hole areas and between the cylinders.
2. inspect for cracks/flaws in the main web areas and all around the main saddles.
3. check decks for straightness with a straight edge. surface if needed. check block deck heights and equalize.
4. inspect cam thrust area for wear/damage,repair as needed. inspect lifter bores for wear.
5. bolt/tork main caps to specs. and check I/D with a dial bore guage. note that main caps should fit into registers snuggly and should not rock back and forth on the block during cap installation.
6. bore and hone cylinders following piston manufacturer's instruction, adjustments will be based on intended use,..marine,nitrous,blown, etc. leave +/- .003 for honing cylinders and select fit pistons to each bore and make sure that the cylinders are finish honed for the intended type of rings that will be used.. check piston to wall clearances.
7. inspect and chase all bolt holes in the block using only dull taps and tapping fluid.
8. prep. block for assy by cleaning after machining operations with hot soapy water, jet wash etc. dry off block and lube well to prevent rust. wipe off cylinder bores with trans. fluid and remove all contaminants from cylinders, as well as all other machined areas...."coffee filters " work nice for wiping.
9. install cam bearings and check cam fit as well as checking camshaft oil clearances. install freeze plugs, oil plugs etc...paint block as desired lube and cover it....you should now be good to go.
next time...."CONNECTING ROD WORK". see-ya!
p.s. investing in a dial bore guage is a good idea if you intend on doing your own assy .
also, i am a much better machinest than i am a keyboard operator!
2. inspect for cracks/flaws in the main web areas and all around the main saddles.
3. check decks for straightness with a straight edge. surface if needed. check block deck heights and equalize.
4. inspect cam thrust area for wear/damage,repair as needed. inspect lifter bores for wear.
5. bolt/tork main caps to specs. and check I/D with a dial bore guage. note that main caps should fit into registers snuggly and should not rock back and forth on the block during cap installation.
6. bore and hone cylinders following piston manufacturer's instruction, adjustments will be based on intended use,..marine,nitrous,blown, etc. leave +/- .003 for honing cylinders and select fit pistons to each bore and make sure that the cylinders are finish honed for the intended type of rings that will be used.. check piston to wall clearances.
7. inspect and chase all bolt holes in the block using only dull taps and tapping fluid.
8. prep. block for assy by cleaning after machining operations with hot soapy water, jet wash etc. dry off block and lube well to prevent rust. wipe off cylinder bores with trans. fluid and remove all contaminants from cylinders, as well as all other machined areas...."coffee filters " work nice for wiping.
9. install cam bearings and check cam fit as well as checking camshaft oil clearances. install freeze plugs, oil plugs etc...paint block as desired lube and cover it....you should now be good to go.
next time...."CONNECTING ROD WORK". see-ya!
p.s. investing in a dial bore guage is a good idea if you intend on doing your own assy .
also, i am a much better machinest than i am a keyboard operator!
1600
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: engine builder tips, part 1.
« on: March 28, 2008, 04:13:57 PM »
m&m racing...lets go get my tahiti!! 