if you don't mind driving a little further there is gs marine off of the 15 and 2nd street and a little farther is b1 but I don't know his exact location hopefully this helps


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I would go with GS marine. They will do ya right.
Wes I am not sure that Chris will work on jacuzzi jets but, he is in Santa Anna off the 5 and grand


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Yes it was, that was the best deal i think i have ever seen on socal or performance boats


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Yup it was a great deal. To bad they weren't 1150's I need a set for the new motor


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Yeah I'm a newbie to these jets I drag raced for years but this is a whole new ball game I'm digging this shit my only problem is the old hot rodder in me just wants to go  faster lol

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yeah i hear ya. i got the bug bad after my first time i wacked the throttle in my SWTD. Time to build a river hot rod.

You are going to put a jam nut on that?

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yes, i ran out of 5/16 stainless nuts. ill pick up more tomorrow

Well, got a diverter stop made up today. I roughed out a inch by an inch piece of 3/4 inch aluminum.  Drilled a hole in one side with a 1/4 inch drill and tapped it with a 5/16th tap.




The i drilled 2 holes on the other side with the same and tapped the same







Then i drilled the 2 holes on the diverter arm and mounted it. The backing plate is just so the bolts would tighten up. ill replace them with button head allens tomorrow.

New iOS (iPhone/iPad) SCJB App Update is out - please update when you get a chance!

Thanks!

Digging the new update. Thanks brad!

ya right funny jake hahahaha I'll try hopefully tomorrow if it's still daylight


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If it's still giving you trouble tomorrow try yelling at it a bunch. If your lucky it mite pop out


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Finished the scoop hold down this afternoon. Jig saw, files, and drillbits.

Well a little update. I got the scoop hold down done today. used a 1/4 inch piece of aluminum, roughed out a shape and stuck it under the carb. Then i took some 1/2 inch round aluminum and drilled and taped each end for a 3/8 thread. Then made the holes on the scoop tray and the plate. Its still a rough piece, ill work on making it look better tomorrow. Topped off the hold down with countersunk stringer washers on top of the scoop tray.

2 things I've always been told. Build the bottom end Solid and spend money on the heads. The heads your talking about. The bb2's are just as good as any dart or AFR head for the 540+ CI I love my set that I have. 
I can say what iam doing is very close to what your doing Dave. Just 60 over 555ci Dart big M block tall deck Callie's crank 4.250 ,Oliver rods, cp pistons,on E85 ect...
Cam I would use Chris Straub. It's who a lot of the guys I know use and what's in my deal.


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not a whole lot of progress. As you can tell the boat is outside. And its usually dark by the time i get home. Plus a little cold for paint and filler

Tonight i got home a little early and decided to try my hand at doing some filling. Ive been reading about blueprinting the bottom and im going to attempt my best.

So got my level out (closest thing i have to a straightedge) its 4 ft long and i masked off an area approx 5 feet (couldnt find the damn tape measure.

After sitting the level on the third "level" i tried to make a map and give myself an idea of where i needed to put what.

Here you can see what i masked off and the area i plan to "blueprint"



I threw some filler on (well all that i mixed up) and let it cure


Then went at it with some 40 grit and my long board (about 16 inches). After about 20 minutes of sanding and cleaning it up with some 80 then 180 grit. this is my end result


My question to you all is If you look at the above picture you can see the "two" concentrations of Filler. The filler on the right is a definent low spot. I need to add some more.
Now the areas where i sanded through the filler still show as low with my straight edge. albeit about 1/16 inch so im not to worried. But does it look like im heading in the right direction? I suck at body work lol

Your doing a great job! Make sure the strakes are nice an straight. Make it so it's level and no low spots. FYI you mite end up with a nasty low end porpous if you don't do it just right. Should be fine though. Keep up the great work.


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Jake,
I had another question. when colorsanding/buffing the gel coat, what grit did you start with? And worked up to 2000? What wheels/compounds did you use to buff?

And just to verify, before i head down there i would need

Gallon of Gelcoat (orange)
Gallon of Clear additive

anything else? And does it clean up with acetone, reducer???

And a spray gun with atleast a 2.0 tip. Im looking at this one its a 2.3. i figure theres enough gel and its thick enough that i can colorsand any orange peel
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200319459_200319459

P.S.

On a side note. When you did the grey on the inside, did you prep the glass or just spray it over? How well does the gel coat fill in scratches?

thanks again!
Steve

Well when iam knocking down orange peel I start with 800 and work my way up. On a normal car or boat that iam just color sanding ill use 1000 1500 2000. I used to use the 3m line of compounds and polish but now I use boat candy. I get much better results with that product over 3M.

Yeah I would talk with AJ down at sur fab. Tell him jake sent ya and he will explain a lot to ya as well. Get plenty of mixing cups, rags and acetone. You can also thin down the gel with acetone but no more than 8%. Clean up acetone as well.

No matter how good you are, you'll always get some orange peel. Lol I've sprayed the stuff in a booth and I got it.

The inside I did many days of prep. Went through 10packs of 80 gritt. It's all in the prep work. The more time you spend on it, the better it will turn out.


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