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Messages - Oldsquirt

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176
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Chevy alternator mounting
« on: April 27, 2008, 09:33:15 AM »
2sav, in your Bahner thread there's a pic of your front motor plate. On the left side of the plate there is a hole that I'm sure was the alternator mount/pivot. Run an adjusting bar to one of the accessory mount holes in the head. Looks like there --might-- be some clearance issues with the header water lines, though.

177
Trailers / Re: Trailer Bunks
« on: April 21, 2008, 11:05:10 PM »
Even untreated lumber will probably outlive your ownership of the boat.

178
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: problems with water in the oil.
« on: April 08, 2008, 05:30:36 PM »
Since he was talking about the different logs, I assumed that was where the silicone was. I can't imagine anyone using silicone by itself for intake gaskets. :o  That would definitely be a problem.

179
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Is it easier...
« on: April 08, 2008, 04:43:28 PM »
I'm not a jet boat guru but I've never had a problem changing the starter out with the engine completely in. Take off the exhaust, use ratchet wrenches, put the bolts into the replacement starter before sliding it in where it goes... I must be missing something within this thread.

I agree. It looks a whole lot harder than it really is.

180
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: problems with water in the oil.
« on: April 08, 2008, 04:37:56 PM »
That can do it alone.

Using silicone on, or instead of, exhaust manifold gaskets wont cause a reversion problem.(unless you run the boat UNDERWATER)

Both Ford and Chevy produced  V-8s that used no exhaust manifold gaskets. Just relied on properly machined surfaces to seal.

181
Random Boat Parts For Sale / Re: berkeley JF pump for sale.
« on: April 06, 2008, 10:04:32 PM »
Desertrat, hope you don't mind a correction, but that isn't a "Place diverter" on that pump. It is the stock JF-specific trimmable nozzle. That nozzle is what differentiates the JF from the JE. Hopefully you have ALL the cable brackets and connections as they are no longer available and without them the trim unit is pretty much useless.

182
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: problems with water in the oil.
« on: April 06, 2008, 10:33:29 AM »
Couple of things to remember regarding the Olds. First, DO NOT use the stock tin "turkey-tray" intake gasket. They don't seal well with aluminum manifolds. Use a normal style(composition) gasket from Mr.Gasket(two styles available). I think FelPro may also make one.
Second, after decades of use and corrosion, the timing covers and water pump block off plates are a possible source of water entry to the crankcase. Take a good look at both items before making the "assumption" that it is caused by reversion in exhaust or bad head gaskets.

183
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Lets talk fuel fills...venting ?
« on: March 30, 2008, 07:32:09 PM »
Those flip-top fills generally vent by way of the loose fit of the rubber seal around the center post of the cap. The holes you added were most likely unnecessary.

184
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: ballast resistor/backward
« on: March 17, 2008, 08:15:35 PM »
bypass it,

That would be my advice as well.

185
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: ballast resistor/backward
« on: March 17, 2008, 07:16:41 PM »
the purple wire stays live obviously when the key is on. but the yellow wire while the starter is cranking is just hot while your cranking right? so how should your boat run on 1 volt. as far as how many wires to it ,the bottom has the purple(hot) ,the hot 4 the dizzy(same spot). on the other side one to the hot side of the coil and the one from the starter. :banghead: :mad:

What sort of ignition system are you running???  Except for Mallory Unilite, I don't know of any electronics that run a resistor. If you have a points setup, your wiring is wrong.


186
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Harmonic balancer
« on: March 16, 2008, 06:43:40 PM »
Buy the right tool!!! It's not that expensive and a far better choice than potentially damaging your crankshaft threads or your thrust bearing.
Summit Racing Balancer Tools A dedicated Chevy tool can be had for as little as $24

187
The No Wake Zone / Re: When to pump gas
« on: March 12, 2008, 08:16:14 PM »
Keyword(s) highlighted.  ;)

Let me help here. I've highlighted the key LETTERS :)

I was watching a show last night with some lady pretty much sayin it's all B.S:sly:

-beerjet-

188
Projects / Re: daytona
« on: March 06, 2008, 03:42:43 PM »
.........what brand is that intake, Dominator?

Looks like an Aggressor intake

189
Gelcoat / Paint / Fireberglass Repair / Re: It's coming along...
« on: March 01, 2008, 09:34:28 PM »

Now, if I unbolt the driveline, I don't know how the thing won't destroy itself on the flywheel - nothing to keep it off (the u joints will just bend it down). And I need to run the engine 'cause I just put it together..

Not sure what you are trying to say here. If you have 4-point mounts and you remove the driveline from the engine and pump, you should have no problem. If by chance you have a direct mount driveline(no PTO) you will have to install proper flywheel bolts.

190
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: What's it fit?
« on: February 24, 2008, 03:25:17 PM »
From the pics, that Accel distributor also fits BBC/SBC.

191
Interior / Re: Gauge ?
« on: February 24, 2008, 03:15:44 PM »
82    has a set from rex marine that i wanna pick up but im tired of buying shit twice so i wanna get it right the first time. Nothing wrong with his gauges they are very nice and would love to put them in the Bahner but i dont want false readings due to wrong sending units......

2sav

Just call Rex Marine and they can tell you exactly what you need for those gauges. You could also PM "REXONE" over on powerboats.com forums and I'm sure you would have an answer within a day.

192
Jet Pumps / Re: Standard berkeley jet driveshafts
« on: February 10, 2008, 03:31:43 PM »
If the Olds driveline bolts directly to the flywheel, then no, you can't use it. You will either need a 1310 driveline to fit your existing Mopar PTO, or a 1350 driveline and a 1350 Mopar PTO. Unless you are running real big power the 1310 will suffice. The 1310 driveline is easier to find used and new ones cost about 1/2 of what a 1350 costs.

193
Jet Pumps / Re: Standard berkeley jet driveshafts
« on: February 10, 2008, 09:51:55 AM »
With the PTO that you have, you need a standard 1310 style driveline. If you want to run a larger 1350 style driveline you will need the appropriate 1350 PTO. It uses a different bolt pattern for the drive line. Glenwood Marine lists the part for a Mopar here http://www.glenwoodmarine.com/Catalog/POWER%20TAKE-OFF.pdf. I am sure they can be ordered through any of the normal marine parts suppliers even if they aren't listed in their catalogs.

194
Projects / Re: it's home!!
« on: January 27, 2008, 12:10:56 PM »
OK, looks a lot straighter in those pics than it did in the earlier post. :)

195
Projects / Re: it's home!!
« on: January 27, 2008, 11:37:57 AM »
Boat looks great. Glad to see the alternator fit. It does look, however, like the pulleys dont quite line up. In measuring things up for my plate/rail setup, I discovered that the mounting point for the alternator on my old 4-point front mount, which worked perfectly for a GM alternator, was 5/8" forward of the block face. That means that with a 3/8" front plate it would take a 1/4" spacer to get the pulleys lined up. You might want to look into this. Hate to see you throw a belt. :)

196
Interior / Re: Rack & pinion
« on: January 20, 2008, 12:48:00 PM »
That steering setup was manufactured by Kiekhaefer Mercury Marine. I agree with OldRigger in that it is a far beefier piece than any of the cheapie "rack in a box" systems that everyone sells today. In as much as Mercury marine is still in business, you shouldn't have any problem finding a new cable. I ran into this same situation back in '96 when the cable in my 74 Tahiti needed replacement. The local "hot boat" repair shop insisted that I had to replace the whole system. I think they wanted about $200 for everything I would need. Since I passed by a "regular" marine shop in San Francisco every day on my commute, I stopped in. Guess what, they had a new cable in stock for less than $100. They also had a whole box of the "racks" that go inside the housing. I think that cost me about $10. So for $110 and an hours labor I was back in business.

The only downside to the Mercury marine setup is the tapered square shaft. I don't think anyone makes steering extensions for them, but I bet a competent machinest could convert a round taper adapter to fit.

197
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: alternator mounting
« on: January 20, 2008, 11:21:58 AM »
Thanks for the pics Forkedup. I'll go out there and scratch my head again. I think our rail kits are  different. The "hole " in front of where tha manual pump would be on mine is about the size of a silver dollar.
Your front plate has the same alternator mounting hole as shown in FORKEDUP's pics. It's right at the top right hand corner of the plate. As mentioned before, we are not talking about the fuel pump "window".

198
Projects / Re: Placecraft tunnel
« on: January 10, 2008, 07:44:50 PM »
Marc, take a look at the tunnel ram, specifically in the open area between the front four runners and the back four. Appears to be a cleverly located breather in there.

199
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: alternator mounting
« on: January 10, 2008, 07:31:48 PM »
That usually only works if you're using the old style of mounts and not a rail kit. I don't think I've seen engine plates for a rail kit that have a provision to mount the alternator.

That is EXACTLY what that particular hole in the front plate is for and CP's adjuster bracket should work perfectly.

200
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: alternator mounting
« on: January 10, 2008, 07:28:51 PM »
oldsquirt, i always thought that hole was incase a mechanical fuel pump is run (clearance)??
thanks for the link crew, i think i can make some spacers like that and probably get it to work, i might go to the right side though like oldsquirt said, so i don't have to make them as long,

I was referring to the small hole above and to the outside of the fuel pump "window".

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