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Messages - speedymopars

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176
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: I'm no electrician .........
« on: June 27, 2008, 09:26:42 AM »
I ran the original optimas in all my cars. The one in my van is 15 years old, the thing can sit for 6 months and it still starts without touching a charger.

The new "improved" optimas, well, thank god there is a 3 year unconditional replacement garentee - I seem to burn them up every two years.

Something screwed up, I don't know if they outsourced it, sold the company, or got a new manament team in there - but the old ain't the new....

177
The No Wake Zone / Re: Anybody in So Cal/Central Cal feel like hitting a lake this weekend?
« on: June 27, 2008, 06:56:16 AM »
Was going to do mojavi or havi before I got sick - now I doubt I'll go. Kids want to go out though so prob elsinore for me on Sunday.

178
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Scat flexplate
« on: June 26, 2008, 06:08:50 PM »
Quote from: 2savage4you on June 26, 2008, 01:31:27 PM
Thats funny and i have to give props to the Mopar guy's   Mopar = mo power ;D

Everybody gives everybody crap about there engine's....Thats what keeps the blood pumping >:D

Oh and Chevy is still # 1 :o


2sav



Yep, all in good fun :)

179
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: I'm no electrician .........
« on: June 26, 2008, 04:17:46 PM »
If I read this right, you cranked it didn't work, so you then tried to tighten the connection.

The connection is dirty or the wire is too small, either one causes resistance and therefore creates heat when current is put through it.

Clean it...

180
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Scat flexplate
« on: June 26, 2008, 12:17:56 PM »
That's right - you guys keep fighting for that #2 position!  ;D


181
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: proper cam break in
« on: June 26, 2008, 12:15:32 PM »
You definately want to vary the RPM's like Tofast says. The cam gets oiled from the splash off of the crank, and you don't want to leave a section dry (or lightly oiled) during the break in. You want to run GM EoS in very liberal amounts, and no long cranking. Make sure that thing will start when you turn the key.

If you are running a Chevy, this is especially important. Chevy's tend to eat cams do to thier design anyway, startup proceedure is really important.





182
Random Boat Parts For Sale / Re: ****wanted*** single dominator air scoop/hood scoop!! anyone ???
« on: June 25, 2008, 08:35:35 PM »
Just be happy he was wearin' pants!  ;D

183
The No Wake Zone / Re: gas prices
« on: June 25, 2008, 03:47:31 PM »
Obama - no nuclear power
No drilling
No Shale
No processing

Where does he think power comes from, magic fairy dust?

184
The No Wake Zone / Re: Ryan Brindle
« on: June 25, 2008, 03:23:10 PM »
Quote from: 82daytona on June 25, 2008, 02:12:35 PM
where the fu*k is ryan brindle?

I did a search on the obits just to see - nothing...

185
The No Wake Zone / Re: gas prices
« on: June 25, 2008, 10:09:26 AM »
Quote from: FORKEDUP on June 25, 2008, 08:14:26 AM
we need to go to these coutries that are hosing us on oil and say f-u we have helped you in the past and given you aide and money when needed, now we are taking the f'n oil as payment. if you don't like go f*** a camel :mad:

Now *that's* Forked up!   ;D

I agree! Let's start with Mexico - they have plenty of oil, and we have plenty of thier citizens.

I have no problem taking over another country to get their oil - But where's my OIL???

186
The No Wake Zone / Re: gas prices
« on: June 25, 2008, 10:06:11 AM »
Quote from: KonaCole on June 25, 2008, 07:07:23 AM
I have heard a possible $200 oil by the end of the year.  If that happens, we are in deep because with gas around $5.00 and current oil at around $125 to $130 per bbl can you imagine gas per gal with $200 oil  ???  It has to go down.  The problem is with our govt.  If they were to let us drill, we still cannot refine.  If they let us drill and refine, it would IMO take years, if ever, for us to become independent of imported oil.

And where will we be in 5 years? If we don't drill, in 5 years gas will be 10 bucks a gallon or more, then the excuse will be, but it will take years!

187
Engines / Engine Parts For Sale / Re: Holley 850DP 4781 base plate needed
« on: June 25, 2008, 09:48:07 AM »
Is the second one an 850 annular body (9380)?

188
Engines / Engine Parts For Sale / Re: Olds 455
« on: June 25, 2008, 09:39:30 AM »
SOLD


189
The No Wake Zone / Re: Brad Vs. Bob
« on: June 25, 2008, 09:37:25 AM »
Good luck. I've found that aspartine, the sweetner found in diet soft drinks, makes you really hungry (famished) . Don't do the diet stuff - you'll just eat more!

190
WarZone / Re: New Motivational Posters…
« on: June 24, 2008, 10:18:31 PM »
Quote from: Brad @ SoCalJetBoats.com on June 18, 2008, 03:53:27 PM
aint this the truth...

(Attachment Link)

March 5, 2000 was the date...

191
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: 460 oil pressure issue starting at 4600 RPMs update
« on: June 24, 2008, 07:45:52 AM »
Tom at Miliodon is pretty cool, I've always had good luck with him.

They must have an issue with the baffles - somehow the pickup area is not getting refilled ( the pickup gets uncovered ) or the pan is too close to the pickup causing a restriction.

Congrats on finding the problem!

192
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Carb Scoop or Velocity Stack?
« on: June 23, 2008, 09:08:00 PM »
This works for me.

193
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Carb Scoop or Velocity Stack?
« on: June 23, 2008, 08:12:58 PM »
I need to chime in on this one.

Scoops can only do two things - bring in cold air, and bring in cold pressureized air.

On a car, the windshield creates a high pressure area, so the chevys went with cowl induction.

Mopars and Fords took the air as it went over the hood, avoiding the 180 degree turn the cowl induction forced.

If the scoop opening is big enough, and as was said before the engines are just a big air pump, there is a positive pressure build which forces more air into the engine. This is why drag race cars have the scoop facing forward - every bit helps.

I know my duster's scoop can create a few pounds of boost at speed. Free HP.

I love when people ask how much HP you see on the dyno with a scoop or ram air - you don't see any - IT'S  A DYNO - you aren't moving!

On a boat, if you went fast enough, the forward facing scoop would give you a HP advantage. With most boats however, the engine hits top RPM long before airflow becomes an issue, so really it would work either way. The scoops on boats are supposed to face backwards so if there a backfire, the occupants don't get fried or catch something on fire, which really isn't that big of an issue in a car. Huge issue in a boat.

Velocity stacks straighten the air to give more HP, so it is not and either or with a scoop. You can have both.


On my boats setup, I oped for two K&N's hanging out of the cover. The tunnel ram after a hard run is around 38 degreees give or take according to my infrared thermometer.


194
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: carb jetting
« on: June 23, 2008, 04:00:10 PM »
Quote from: KonaCole on June 23, 2008, 03:46:13 PM
Went to the lake yesterday and I am still having some issues. 

From idle, if I hammer it, it will pop a little bit and fall on its face.

From crusing speed (2800 or so), if I hammer it, it has a pretty good hesitation, then it pulls hard.

Took a plug reading and it is lean

Just to refresh:
The carb (750 dp) came with 6.5 pv, 28 primary squirter 31 in the rear, 73 primaries and 81 secondaries,  30 cc acc pumps.

What I have done to try to solve previous problems:
put a 4.5 pv in
put the 31 squirter in the front and a 35 in the rear
put 70s in the primary

I was planning on putting some 72s in the primary and making a cam change from white to pink then taking another plug reading (I am being told by Holley to get the plugs to look good and then work on the poping / hesitation with squirter size and cam changes)

Any other suggestions as what to do?

Thanks,
Cole


Swap the squirters. 35 in the front, 31 in the rear. 71 or 72 jets in the front.

Pink cam on #1


195
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Heating problems with a jet? Help!
« on: June 23, 2008, 03:56:01 PM »
Quote from: Rodbender on June 23, 2008, 01:35:07 PM
Quick update on the carb.
i just got it back from PC. They bumped the jetting from 71 to 76 & 80 to 83. Is this significant to cause a heating issue?

Yea, that is a pretty significant bump in jetting. A std 750 DP has 71's in the primaries, and 80's in the secondaries so you were at stock jetting (there is only one PV in the primaries so the secondaries need to be jetted up to compensate).

What size ca are you running? The duration at .050 has more to do with fuel jetting requirements than CID.. I will assume they asked you about your cam duration.

Upping the hose size and reducing the length = more flow. Those 90 degree fittings are really resrictive too, esp if internally there is a straight drill line with no chamfering.


196
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Heating problems with a jet? Help!
« on: June 23, 2008, 12:39:03 PM »
Did you notice a significant RPM difference between the new and old carbs?

A carb jetted for a 350 is not going to be that much different than one jetted for a 454, esp when you are talking a vac secondary 750. However, if the coolling system is right on the edge (or tuned) to get a specific temperature out of it, then changing the jetting could put it over the edge. If you are getting good mileage and the engine runs well otherwise, you may want to try just bumping up the secondary jets.

Look for an intake leak too (use carb cleaner to see if rpm changes when you spray it around). An intake leak can cause a significant rise in temp. But, either way, you are looking at it one at a time, and that is the right way to go.

Did the valve you took out have any kind of buildup or restriction internally?







197
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Heating problems with a jet? Help!
« on: June 23, 2008, 09:14:10 AM »
But even still with the plugs showing lean, the cooling system should have been able to handle it. You still have a flow issue IMHO.

I also had an issue with flow at the upper RPM to the left head. I was running a single 5/8ths line to a regulator, Y'ed off to each side (log, head, then block and out to risers), and using 5/8ths all the way.

The regulator was killing me, it couldn't flow enough. It was fine at lower rpm, but once the pressure really kicked up, the regulator couldn't handle the GPM required. I removed the regulator, now I have 17PSI at WOT (if the outlet is bigger and can outflow than the inlet, you don't have to worry about block pressures). I think you don't have big enough lines (and /or there is a kink or blockage), esp with the overboard dump. 

I suggest you go to Home depot / ace / osh / etc and get a house pressure gauge that goes to 200 PSI (they cost around 10 bucks) and plumb it in at the jet engine feed or nearby before any other valve, regulator, etc., then just start getting pressure readings at different places to figure out where the stoppage is.

198
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: high rev cut out???
« on: June 22, 2008, 05:38:43 AM »
It could also be the plug wires arcing to something at max load.

199
Jet Pumps / Re: Pump help Please :)
« on: June 21, 2008, 12:13:35 PM »
The other thing you can look at is your throttle lever. Mine has 3 holes for the reverse bucket, all in different positions with different throws.

200
The Parker Strip / Re: Post Parker 2008 Gathering Thread
« on: June 17, 2008, 02:39:11 PM »
The wife saw this thread - now she wants to goto parker ASAP! (which means we'll have ta wait - damn tax bills!)

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