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Messages - obnoxious001

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201
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: please help stuck pipe plugs in exhaust logs !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
« on: May 26, 2011, 09:38:27 PM »
Quote from: soron3842 on May 26, 2011, 09:00:41 PM
ok i pulled my junk engine out of my 73 fiberform malibu jet. went to take the exhaust logs off they are berkley there are pipe plugs in the bottom of them i have to take the plugs out in order to get to the bolts out to remove the logs from the heads i cant not get the plugs out they are STUCK!! any suggestions on how to get them out with out breaking anything?? they are allan head plugs nad they are kicking my A$$ :banghead:

Before you damage the hex,, use a propane or similar torch to heat the aluminum.  Obviously, if you use a cutting torch you can destroy the aluminum, so use your head some.  Expanding the aluminum should allow the plugs to come out much easier.

202
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Forced E85
« on: May 24, 2011, 05:35:01 PM »
Quote from: HomeBlown57 on May 24, 2011, 08:44:17 AM
I have built a 454:
Bowtie aluminum heads
7.8-1
.640 cam
115 lobe centers
The plan is E85 on EFI with Twin Turbos. I was thinking gasoline at 20PSI. Now that I have made the E85 jump, I am wondering where the boost limit is.

Generally I ask for facts not opinions, but this time let's dream a little. I know nobody here has done it so let's hear about what you have read, or heard.

I am thinking that the turbos that I have can provide a over 30PSI. I think the fuel can take it. The bottom end is pretty hard core. What kind of power do you think this setup will provide.

Check with Stevo143 on PB or RDP.  He is currently running a 496 on E85 that I rebuilt for him, and we are getting close to completing the long block for his other boat,, 621 cubic inch all aluminum engine that will also run turbos on E85. 

You don't say what your intended usage is, or how long you plan to run at full boost, but I think your 20 lbs of boost on gasoline was kind of high, depending on your usage, even assuming racing gas.  My turbo background dates back to the late 70's at Gale Banks.  I don't think you want to run it right "on the edge" unless you have a ton of money and enjoy rebuilding your stuff.

203
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: fuel tank repair
« on: May 24, 2011, 05:27:37 PM »
IMCO and I would assume other places weld used tanks by filling them with inert gas, however IMCO will only repair their own tanks I believe.  If corrosion is a factor, then maybe it's time for a new tank. 


204
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: ignition coil question
« on: May 23, 2011, 04:56:20 PM »
Quote from: Duke on May 23, 2011, 03:07:21 PM
i unhooked the ballast resistor on one side and put the meter down to the 200 ohms setting, and when i make the connection, it goes from about 1500 and quickly drops down to 40ohms then slowly makes its way just below 30. it doesnt want to stay at one certain resistence level.

i guess next is to try and skip the ignition switch. im going to look into it right now and see whats going on in there. thanks

Right,, the fact that it was getting voltage through the resistor probably eliminates that as being the problem, unless vibration of the engine running makes the broken resistor wire separate.  You can take the wire from one side of the resistor and attach it to the other side, thereby connecting the two wires and bypassing the resistor to test it out. 

Back to what you said above about the key being turned on and no voltage at the coil until the key is turned to the "start" position.  That's probably where the problem lies,, if you wanted to trace the wire from the coil to the ignition switch and make sure there are no splices or breaks, you can use the meter to check voltage at the terminal on the switch, and any other connections in between (terminal strip on a jet boat maybe?)

205
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: ignition coil question
« on: May 23, 2011, 01:33:00 PM »
Quote from: Duke on May 22, 2011, 10:05:03 PM
so.. after dropping in my mallory dual points dist. ( had to move the oil pump rod about 1/8 of an inch to get everything lines up to the first cylinder on the compression stroke.) i got the engine to run for about two minutes a few days ago.

so i stoped and went to pick up a timing light. now it wont start.

it will turn on for about as long as i hold the key in the start position, once it fires up and i release the key to the on position it dies.

its still getting fuel as the bowls are not empty after

obnoxious told me to look at the ignition coil and so i put a volt meter on it

heres what i did and what happened.

 put the volt meter to the ignition coil. reads nothing at the "on" position

had my brother turn the engine over and it jumps up to about 6 volts as its turning, then goes down to low fives when he releases it back to the on position. tried this a few more times and same thing everytime.

so im assuming the ignition coil is bad.

i looked at some of the coils on the summit and jegs websites, mallory makes some. but i would like some feed back, if i am going to replace it, what i should look for

1983 chevy 454 mallory dual points .. thanks

OK, your statement here is slightly different than all the PM's you have sent.  If the keyswitch is in the "on" position, and you have zero volts at the coil, it comes back to the three things I previously mentioned to you.  If you read all of the above posts, they all recommend the same things I told you in PM's. 

You may have a bad ignition switch

You may have a bad ballast resistor

You may have some other wiring problem.

I would not worry so much about how many ohms the ballast resistor is, but does it show continuity?   Put the meter on a low range resistance setting and see if you get some needle deflection.  As I had told you before, you will need to remove the wire from one side of the resistor to make that test.

Also, as I said previously, and is indicated above,, you can jumper 12 volts directly to the coil to see if it runs, but do it in a way that you can pull the wire to kill the engine.

206
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: power loss at WOT
« on: May 21, 2011, 08:40:11 PM »
Quote from: kcmaltes on May 21, 2011, 06:26:38 PM
If I let off and get in it again the same thing happens I put a new inline feel filter and water separator. Would the mechanical fuel pump be failing?

Was there junk in the other fuel filter?  Did you try blowing through it to see if it was clogged?  You don't happen to have fiberglass fuel tanks in the boat?

It may be the fuel pump can't keep up with full throttle operation, can you temporarily rig some kind of fuel pressure gauge to test.

Another possibility might be float level is set too low,, or maybe even the needle and seat is getting stuck (but logically if it was stuck it would not allow more fuel into the carb at all)

207
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Power loss
« on: May 21, 2011, 06:22:37 PM »
Quote from: bigmac on May 21, 2011, 04:37:51 PM
the boat is still out at the river right now going to work on it memorial hopefully i can figure this out and get it running

OK,, if you don't have any photos of the fuel pump and filter, you have a few choices.  You can learn about it by working on it yourself,, or get a friend who knows to help yiou with it,, or pay someone to fix it,, I assume prior to the weekend so you can use it. 

A 2000 year boat may have a safety switch that kills the electric pump if the engine is not running and making oil pressure, so "jumping" the fuel pump allowed the dry carb to fill with fuel so you could start it the first time.  The other problem may be a clogged fuel filter,, or problem with the carb, or possibly a fuel pump problem.  I will guess that you have no fuel pressure gauge to monitor? 

208
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: power loss at WOT
« on: May 21, 2011, 06:07:21 PM »
Quote from: kcmaltes on May 21, 2011, 05:08:56 PM
why would my boat hit 5200 rpm the drops rpm in about 10 sec of wot . it feels i am lossing power and tach goes down to 4600 rpm and speed goes down also.

Could be starving for fuel,, if you back off for a minute and run it up again, what happens? 

Last year I helped a guy out at the upper sandbar at Parker, we pulled his filter apart right there on the water and had him running right again in 10 minutes or so (he did have a filter that could be opened and cleaned)

209
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Power loss
« on: May 21, 2011, 03:32:56 PM »
My first thought is check the fuel filter,, what type do you have?  Also, what type of electric pump?

210
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Got wood? I DO!!!
« on: May 21, 2011, 03:30:18 PM »
Quote from: IRRebel on May 21, 2011, 02:09:05 PM

It's fresh from the Mooneyham shop, but I need to flip the bearing plates and gears front to rear (making the front plate upside down, obviously) to make this work as a rear driven deal.

Anyone have experience clearancing and timing a blower or do I just need to bite the bullet and have a pro do it?



Ray

Since you aren't 15 minutes away from Mooneyham like I am,, might make sense to give them a call and see what advice they can give you.  They have been pretty friendly with me for what little business I have taken to them.

211
Engines / Engine Parts For Sale / New BBC Edelbrock oval port tunnel ram intake
« on: May 19, 2011, 05:04:58 PM »
No longer available

212
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: piston type....anyone ever seen these before?
« on: May 14, 2011, 02:16:27 AM »
Quote from: 75tahitijim on May 13, 2011, 10:31:23 PM
Thank you for the comp, And the reply..... Its cominng along a little slow, but its getting there.  ;D
The biggest thing is I cant find anything on them. I called the company who made them and they referenced the number I gave them and said they never heard of them.....Dont know about that, but you know how that goes. The other thing is I am wondering about the C.R they give and if they are forged or cast. Hate not knowing what the deal is....even with the cam...it has solid lifters and roller rockers....there again dont know the grind :banghead:. Cant complain about the engine yet as it pulls harder than you would think. And there are a few guys over here that are suprised at how well it does. But when they ask me about it I cant tell them anything and when I do they are like....."what kind". Guess when its time to freshen I will just have to find out then. Thanks again Jim

I have seen some old stock Manley pistons for sale on Ebay,, think they were forged 2618 alloy.  Note the the number in the photo is P 5699,, you typed "P 699".  As was mentioned, getting .060" over rings is easy, but make sure to check the existing ones to get the correct thickness.  A quick search actually shows a few pistons still on their site, just no BBC that I saw.

Also as mentioned the camshaft should have identifying marks on the end, but may not have a company name if it was a regrind.  You can measure lift with calipers once it's out of the engine, but if you want to check duration you will need to check it with a degree wheel while it's still in the block.  The alternative to that is having a shop that grinds camshafts measure it up for you,, presumably you would need to ship it to someone and pay to have it done.  I am lucky enough to have a local guy who grinds all my camshafts out here in California if I need one checked.

213
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: basic idle timing for a mild 454?
« on: May 08, 2011, 12:07:26 PM »
Quote from: crewchief22 on May 08, 2011, 09:18:05 AM
I think he means just to get it fired and running until you can get a timing light on it.

Exactly,, sorry I didn't make myself more clear.  What I meant was a little extra advance on fire up usually works better.

Once you have it running, you really only need to be concerned with the total advance.  You can put the light on it right away and make sure you have some advance in it.  If it's retarded, the exhausts will get hot pretty quick.

Give the engine a few minutes to build a bit of temperature, then you will need to set timing by bringing RPM up while watching the timing mark.  Continue raising RPM until the mark stops moving to find "total" advance.  Somewhere around 34-36 total probably will work the best. 

The initial timing can and will vary depending on the distributor and what modifications (if any) have been done to it.  MSD has some good videos about how to install a distributor and set ignition timing.  http://www.setyourtiming.com/video.html

214
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: basic idle timing for a mild 454?
« on: May 07, 2011, 08:11:31 PM »
You may have one plug wire out of place or something.  Depending on how accurate you are with lining up the rotor and cap once you drop the distributor, you can be off a fair number of degrees.  The more times you do it,, the better you get at getting it very close. 

Personally, I would suggest setting the engine up around 20 degrees BTDC , since you would rather have a little advance in the engine when it fires.  If it's too retarded, it will make lots of exhaust heat.

I know you have struggled with this for some time now, if you feel like dragging it to Glendora I will check it out with you(free,, not looking to charge you). 

215
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: AN Fitting Sizes
« on: May 03, 2011, 10:45:59 PM »
Quote from: SuperDuty on May 03, 2011, 09:24:22 PM
Hey, Is there a way to know what size AN fittings I need to order without guessing? Im new to the AN world and was told that 6 AN was 5/16, 8 AN is 3/8, and 10 AN is 1/2.. but thats just not seeming to work out right. I have to order a bunch of fittings to run my waterline and guessing just isnt going to cut it! Thanks

-6 is considered 3/8"
-8 is 1/2"
-10 is 5/8"

You are right, the stuff is too expensive to guess on.  Depending on where you buy them, maybe buy a few and test fit and angles.  Don't know where you are, but superdave in Anaheim has some pretty good pricing.  He has a webside (sweetperformance), but maybe give him a call and see what he can do for you.

Sweet Performance Products, Inc

461 Industrial Way

Placentia, CA 92870

714 223 9322

216
Engines / Engine Parts For Sale / Machined 2 bolt 454 block
« on: May 02, 2011, 08:26:32 PM »
Clean 2 bolt 454 Chevy block, fresh bore and hone to 4.290" (.040" over)  $250


217
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: 454 Build Stupid question
« on: May 01, 2011, 10:29:04 PM »
Quote from: Horizonjet on May 01, 2011, 10:11:47 PM
Just a drill bit, well a long flathead screw driver with the handle taken off and put into the drill.  I need the longer ones cause the short thread on the Delco pl;ugs wont even start

If you are not using a regular priming tool that seals the oil galleys, not sure how you could get any oil to the pushrod?

When you buy spark plugs for a boat engine,, you basically need to go to the parts store knowing what you want,, all they can usually do there is look up by year and model.  You didn't give them the number of your old plugs, or take one with you?

 I normally buy plugs one or two heat ranges colder than stock "street" plugs,, since a boat engine gets run harder.  Personally I use Autolite or NGK plugs. 

218
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: 454 Build Stupid question
« on: May 01, 2011, 01:48:33 AM »
Quote from: Horizonjet on April 30, 2011, 10:43:15 PM
I have rebuilt a 454, bored 30 over and new cam and my question is, I am getting ready to stab back into boat and i was running the oul pump with a drill to pressureize oil system and to makwe sure I am getting oil everywhere.  I have the valve covers off and I am not getting any oil up through the push rods and onto the lifters.  Is this normal???? I am getting oil in the filter and to the oil pressure sending unit and up in the valley under the intake... I would like to know before I put in boat and start and destroy it?  I konw it is a stupid question but I have never done this part of a rebuild before.

It's actually a very intelligent question, not many people prime their engines so carefully.

Every few minutes while the drill is running,, turn the engine over 90 degrees.  Are you running a hydraulic cam?

219
Engines / Engine Parts For Sale / Re: 600 HP 4 bolt 454 short block parts
« on: April 29, 2011, 11:31:48 AM »

220
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: newb carb question****** PICS UP
« on: April 24, 2011, 10:35:13 PM »
Quote from: Duke on April 24, 2011, 09:01:45 PM
how do i take this last plate off?

does the gold colored spring/button come off?

That's called the "metering plate".  The gold colored "button" in the center is actually the power valve, and it is threaded in from the opposite side.

At the top of the metering plate there are two indentations,, carefully use a screwdriver in them to pry it off(it should come off reasonably easily)  Resist any urges to put a screwdriver between the metering plate and main body.

221
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: newb carb question
« on: April 24, 2011, 12:25:01 PM »
Quote from: Duke on April 24, 2011, 04:10:52 AM
so i started looking around online and ended up going to my local auto parts place who forwareded me to http://www.carbsonly.com/ carlos there said the main body is no good, and also the primary fuel bowl. showed me another main body he had laying around for $60, said the rebuild kit was around $35.

 sounds fair to me at this point. but then i asked him if i could just clean the carb with carb cleaner and a toothbrush or something he said i would run into problems ( the carbs been sitting under a tarp and boat cover for about 4-5 years now) 

I asked what he would suggest and he said they do a hot tank drop and shake the dirt/grim off, which would run around $80 ( i'll have picture of it up on monday my brothers going to loan me his camera). so that brings me to about $175. i asked how much he would charge to rebuild it with the hot tank wash treatment and he quoted me $230.

im think i want to rebuild it myself so that way i can tune it out on the lake etc etc


about the single choke butterfly being removed, i also live in southern california, can i really run the carb with out it?
about the primary fuel bowl being bad, it has a leak on the top screw, it was nicked pretty bad but i think a new screw and washer would get me on the water for now.

once again thanks for the help i really do appreciate it, you guys are helping me get back on the water!!!!!

i think getting a new double pump is out of my price range. i'm happy with the 53mph gps i'v seen on it on elsinore way back when it was actually running :D

With the money you are getting quoted on that one, might be reasonable to replace it.  A guy that I build dirt track race engines for just bought a good used ready to run 750 double pump carb for his race car for $250. 

You absolutely don't need the choke, most "performance" carbs don't even  have them,, they just interrupt airflow. 

Also,, a different carb probably will not increase your speed noticeably,, or perhaps not at all.

I think I have a couple of 750 vacuum secondary carbs here, probably would need a kit since they have been sitting, but should both be completely usable besides that if you want to rebuild one yourself. 


222
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: hardline exhaust logs.. do they rob power will headers work better???
« on: April 24, 2011, 12:14:03 PM »
Quote from: texscorpion on April 24, 2011, 09:31:29 AM
my boat has hardline exhaust logs.. my question is will the motor breath better and work better with headers or not????

Yes, the Hardin logs,, or any of the "log" exhausts are restrictive.  If you are wanting to build more performance, better exhausts will definitely help.  You can consider some of the center rise exhausts or through transom headers if you want a power gain and still want to keep the exhaust through transom.

223
Engines / Engine Parts For Sale / Re: 600 HP 4 bolt 454 short block parts
« on: April 23, 2011, 12:30:29 AM »
Quote from: pw_Tony on April 22, 2011, 11:12:02 PM
That's a good deal  :thumbup:

Yep,, didn't mention before,, it's a Velasco crankshaft.  Check the price on the fluiddamper,, over $400 for a new one.  Put a set of 990 heads on it,, and the right roller cam,, should be able to make the 600 HP I mentioned.

224
Engines / Engine Parts For Sale / Re: 600 HP 4 bolt 454 short block parts
« on: April 22, 2011, 07:44:07 PM »
I can probably assist in getting the crank ground so this would be ready to assemble, or even make a deal to assemble it for someone.

225
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: newb carb question
« on: April 22, 2011, 07:40:46 PM »
Quote from: Duke on April 21, 2011, 09:33:16 PM
well, the choke horn (after looking up what that was D:) is bent inward, and the butterfly's up top wont shut.

the "list" number on them that i can see is

3310-10
0313

Your "butterfly's up top" is actually a single choke butterfly,, correct?  That can usually be removed,, but I am from Southern California,, no real need for a choke to start an engine here. 

Let me suggest that you have someone who knows carbs better than you take a look at that one and tell you if it's worth rebuilding or not.  Holley carbs are reasonably easy to work on, and for a mild engine the vacuum secondaries are not really going to hamper you at all, and may increase fuel economy some, as it was designed to do.

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