Bump $60


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where are you located and do you take paypal/ship em (ill add for shipping cost) if you're too far away?  im in long beach/huntington beach.

im pretty sure you'll never find a book about building jet boats.  but all standard "marine" books could/should apply.  the terminology is still the same and even though theres some things that dont exist on a jet boat all of the mechanical should be held to the same standards as any other boat.  fuel lines, electrical, mechanical, etc.  theres things that are done for a reason and most of the time its for safety.  sure regular ol rubber goodyear hose WILL work, but USGS approved fuel hose is what you SHOULD be using in a boat.  regular ol wire WILL work, but tinned marine wire will last longer and resist corrosion.  cheap home depot bolts?  they'll rust.  use ALL stainless with nylock nuts to resist vibrations not lock washers. use thick washers when bolting into/through wood to resist crushing it when getting things tight and spreading the load out.  in a car a fuel leak will drip out onto the ground, in a boat it leaks into the bilge and splashes everything.  it all needs to be resistant as well as UV resistant.  115* heat will kill most regular hoses and wiring.  but in a car its under a hood and almost always sees a constant temp/conditions. motor wise, like GT said... build it like a tank but expect it to run like a car.  have ways to shut things off.  valves for fluids and fuses/relays for electrical.  as far as the pump im sure theres a shop manual/service manual for a berk jet that would help you pick up all the things to look for and tolerances. 

heh.  with our new baby my wife took her to the grandparents like a week before i was gonna fly out... at first i was all "WOO HOO BOAT TIME!" and then that quickly wore out when there was no screaming, crying, or poop wiping.  ive never looked forward to changing poop and pee before... 

take the bolt out, and cut a piece of copper wire.  strip the insulation off of it.  wrap the copper wire around the bolt and carefully stick it in the hole and start turning.  usually the copper is enough to smush around and give it some bite.  you should be fine if you can get it to snug up. start it on the trailer for a quick second and spray a little soapy water around the port and see if you get any bubbles.

So what happened to the deal we had   for me to buy the entire boat???

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did you put money in his hand?

2 clearance lights and 2 taillights showed up.



waiting for the 3 middle rear red lights and 2 more yellows for the middle of the trailer.  i always have people trying to merge into my trailer after i pass them...

the guy is in TN.  probably not a lot of jetboats on the market out there...

where would the filler cap go?  simplicity would say to run longer fuel filler hose with a few elbows....
beside storage....are there any other benefits to adding belly tank?

pretty much.  long filler hose to the fuel fill on the side of the boat.  most also run a vent hose along side of it so you can fill it with gas without the pump shutting off a hundred times. 

benefits of belly is lower CG and no listing from side to side as the tanks empty.  taking 13 gallons out of one side of your boat will shift weight and will impact handling at speed.  only 1 fuel sender, only 1 tank so no need for fuel valves, dual gauges or a switch to read senders from each tank. 

Those the gauges I hit you up about a while back?

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the last thing i have from you is asking when the next time id be in parker and i responded with i had a kid and it wouldnt be anytime soon. 

My seats cover the floor on the sides and with the hatch open I can slide jackets/umbrellas ect between hull and seat. With a deep hull its a good idea to have a floor on top of stringers for storage ect. I did leave it open in front of seats for leg room.

you know if i had to do it again... id probably drop the floor down in places under the seats to maximize storage.  Like the whole rear seat i could get a good 4-6" more room the entire length if i dropped the floor down and made a little sealed box.  I've seen people use little sections of PVC pipe to link the "ski locker" etc to the bilge so water can drain.  im also considering switching from side tanks to a belly tank so i can get more storage in the sides of the boat. 

most cars these days are 5w20 or 10w40 or synthetic equivalent.  20w50 is some think stuff for general automotive use... not gonna work well.

its mildew/mold from basically keeping the moisture trapped in the boat with the tarp.   thus why its accumulating at the tops of your interior... hot moist air rises, etc. 

just layin a little carpet...



gotta trim the edges after its all dry and then finish up the rest of the bare spots.