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Messages - Josh@JBP

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201
Jet Pumps / Re: Loader
« on: February 13, 2008, 11:59:50 AM »
Gonna Tag team this biach ;D With that being said top loaders help distribute the water across the face of the impeller and towards the top.  Some types of loaders also decrese the flow to the top of the impeller (ie blockers).   The length of the ramps can (and in most cases need to be) tuned to achive propper preasures, and to prevent potential ill handleing characteristics (like hard left turns on decel).  Also if the ramps protrude to far down they can rob water from the shoe.   

The over 500hp statment some manufactures claim in my opinion is a broad and ambiguouse statment. Different bottoms, installed angles, intake placement, hardware and other bolt ons are all going to require differnent types of tune.  Not unlike cylinder heads, intake manifold, carburetors, camshafts, and displacement......

202
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: getting ready for ming
« on: February 12, 2008, 01:18:09 PM »
Quote from: Ralph Brunt on February 12, 2008, 12:39:25 PM
edit: and i'm not talking about Brad, i have a roller that i took out if he want to try it
If its not good enuf for you then.... ???   ;D Brads engine is gonna do just dandy with the hydraulic flat tap.  From what I've read in the past it takes a whole lot of exhaust work on the factory iron ford heads to take advantage of a .600+ roller.

BTW, the engine sound great Ralph.

203
The No Wake Zone / Re: Guy's i need your help on this poll
« on: February 11, 2008, 03:38:48 PM »
It looks like you got enuf good parts to make a real nice boat out of either, I suppose it comes down to which one you like best.

204
Jet Pumps / Re: this place is dead. lets see the back of your boat
« on: February 11, 2008, 03:29:04 PM »
Quote from: jrork on February 11, 2008, 03:22:11 PM
;D ;D ;D

Are ya going to modify the plastic pod to fit back on there? ;D :D

205
Gelcoat / Paint / Fireberglass Repair / Re: Patching Large Holes
« on: February 11, 2008, 12:18:09 PM »
Quote from: UNDONE on February 08, 2008, 01:00:38 PM
That turned out really well Josh. Good job.
Thanks, it was fun just need to finish it off now.

206
Jet Pumps / Re: Bayjet Jacuzzi Berkeley
« on: February 11, 2008, 12:10:35 PM »
A Berkeley will fit, you just got to re drill 4 bolt holes(either on the suction or the intake).   You could make a wj fit if you wanted to drill and tap a lot of holes.

207
Projects / Re: Here's my 78 Brendella
« on: February 09, 2008, 04:51:51 PM »
Some how I new those pictures would resurface  :banghead:

208
Project Boats For Sale / Re: What hull is this?
« on: February 09, 2008, 04:29:38 PM »
Stevens, Howard?

209
Jet Pumps / Re: Is it...
« on: February 09, 2008, 03:23:42 PM »
the cut out on the bottom of the boat with a WJ is smaller than a Berk, so no glass work :o just cut it bigger.

210
Projects / Re: Here's my 78 Brendella
« on: February 09, 2008, 12:56:14 PM »
I'm just so proud ^-^  looking good  O0

211
WTB / Re: Complete rotating assembly
« on: February 09, 2008, 12:50:52 PM »
Quote from: propless on February 09, 2008, 08:28:52 AM
http://dragracingonline.racingjunk.com/post/533479/604-615-622-Assembled-Dart-Shortblock-New-632.html   
Go big or go home  ;D ;D
ya think that would work with peanut ports.....ooops wrong thread :P

Seriously though, you'd need some ginormous heads for that thing :o

212
WTB / Re: Complete rotating assembly
« on: February 08, 2008, 05:40:34 PM »
cnc-motorsports  http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/category.asp?CtgID=15414

213
Gelcoat / Paint / Fireberglass Repair / Re: Patching Large Holes
« on: February 08, 2008, 11:27:04 AM »
Quote from: 2savage4you on February 08, 2008, 11:19:12 AM
If you are gonna use C clamps then i would assume you will be using strips of wood or something to put on the front/backside to hold it in place...I would put in some wax paper in between so it dont stick to you'r pressed on wood or whatever you are using.. this way when you go to take it off nothing sticks ;D

Just a thought........ive used this method before :banghead: i love these things...

2sav
Good call on the wax paper O0

214
Gelcoat / Paint / Fireberglass Repair / Re: Patching Large Holes
« on: February 08, 2008, 11:26:23 AM »
If i were you I would use 2 layers of mat insted of cloth to laminate the new piece in, saturate it with resing using extra peices of wood to sandwich and distribute the clamping force.  If you really want to make it strong, when thats all set up, bevel the edges of the holes out about 1/2" and start layering round pieces of matt in to build back up to the surface progressivley geting larger till almost flush, smooth it out and finnish it off with cloth in some Bondo Jelly.  Thats how i got rid of my transome holes.




Last Pic is just primer


215
Jet Pumps / Re: American turbine And Berkeley are they inbreed??
« on: February 08, 2008, 10:55:33 AM »
I may have made it sound more complicated than it is, truthfully a side from needing a hiem joint for the cable, it's not much more work than putting a droop on anything else.  Don't shy away from it, you can do it. 

216
Jet Pumps / Re: American turbine And Berkeley are they inbreed??
« on: February 08, 2008, 10:26:26 AM »
The droop and place diverter will bolt up.  Your probably going to need a steering extention and a pivot(posibly a spacer, not alot of up down movment in the steer tube).  The forward reverse hiem joint will most likely need to be converted to the smaller 10/32 thread, and the arm will have to be drilled or threaded for the Turbine cable adapter.  Or the better way to do it would be to switch over to the 43bc cable.

217
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Tuning a Holley
« on: February 07, 2008, 10:29:18 AM »
You can either modify the tops of your current vacuum secondary pods or you can get these guys to replace them. http://www.holley.com/20-28.asp


218
Jet Pumps / Re: Anyone know what nozzle this is?
« on: February 06, 2008, 10:36:12 AM »
The part number looks like its berkeley, My guess would be that it's the original staight snoot.  ;D 

219
Projects / Re: Original Problem child
« on: February 04, 2008, 02:47:08 PM »
Quote from: 2savage4you on February 04, 2008, 02:38:17 PM
Funny , thats one of the first things Dion asked me , if the rear cam bearing was grooved.  It is ;D

Thanks again Josh, great info.

2sav
Glad to help, the block I used on the engine in our Miller project was a '67 396 block with a 454 crank.  Thats when I ran across that lil piece of trivia, didn't apply then, but handy to know.

220
Projects / Re: Original Problem child
« on: February 04, 2008, 02:35:00 PM »
one last thing ::), if its a 65-66.....
This is from mortec:
     "Big blocks, cast in 1965 and '66, used a "grooved" rear cam bearing with a matching "groove" in the rear journal of the camshaft itself. This groove provided an oil passage to the lifter oil galleries. 1967 model and later Mark IV blocks have an annular groove oiling passage cast into the block itself. The blocks cast from the '67 model year on use a smooth, non-grooved cam bearing and the rear cam journal for these '67 and later blocks is smooth and does not use a grooved rear cam journal. The reason this is important is that if the wrong cam bearing gets used in the '65-'66 blocks, no oil gets to the lifter galleries or up to the rocker arms. The '65-'66 grooved cam bearing has three oil holes to feed the cam journal and the two lifter gallery passages. The '67 and later cam bearing is smooth and only has one oiling hole in it. A few of the cam makers will provide a big block cam with the groove cut in the rear camshaft journal, but you can have your machinist cut a groove that is 3/16" wide and 7/64" deep in the center of the rear cam journal if you have a big block cast in the '65 or '66 model year"

221
Jet Pumps / Re: this place is dead. lets see the back of your boat
« on: February 04, 2008, 01:48:17 PM »
Quote from: DOZZR on February 04, 2008, 12:42:34 PM
Noting the fact that different boats are going to react differently to the same applications, I dont think it would be a good idea to "whop off" the rideplate at a specific lenght. But If I did, where would the measurements start from, in this order working from the front (intake) back to the end of the rideplate. You have three points where you would/could pull your measurement from, the longest point is the two tabs where it ties into the intake itself "fins", then there is the deepest part of radius where the plate molds with the intake, or the shortest point, the transom. What point do I pull of of to use as a reference when discussing ride plate length?

Is this my first thread-jack or am I ok, let me know and I'll start a new thread if needed.
Typically the over all length of the plate itself (asuuming the shoe and rideplate arent one piece), and that would be about 3/4 to an inch longer than the measurment from the bottom/back of the intake (the part you machined) back.

222
Jet Pumps / Re: this place is dead. lets see the back of your boat
« on: February 04, 2008, 11:12:00 AM »
Quote from: DOZZR on February 02, 2008, 11:26:25 PM
Josh and I were talking about the length, the boat turns like chit and I have spun it out twice. I am going to shorten it up an inch at a time, up to 4 or 5 inches
Greg Shoemaker posted this on the perfromance boat board:
    "Rideplates, rounded, concave, radiused. ribbed, dimppled and slotted proved to do nothing significant in a drag race set up. The rule of thumb when we started racing was somewhere around 18 inches. Well being young and fearless Jeff ,Norm, and myself decided to test ridplate length with one of the Dash for Cash boats at one of our famous test scessions at the now Blue Watwer Casino formly BlueWater home of the NJBA. On an off weekend we took our test to the water and this is what we came up with .Starting with a 18'' we ran the boat everything went well our std setup Test 2 20'' ran the boat and it was visibly freeer on the water all settings remainded the same.Test 3 22'' rideplate boat got way to loose. Test stopped on length. Now we went short rideplates 16'' was tried and the difference was the tail was stuck so we got the bright idea to try no ridplate at all and this is where the fun begins. The boat accelerates good, gets to top speed OK but the shut down was pretty bad, boat came down extremely hard .That was basically the end of the test secession on rideplates. We felt that we could make the boat a little better in different water conditions with the aid of a different length rideplate. Not a good idea to run a boat without a rideplate. So all you guys makes sure you have the proper length, bolts to hold your underwater hardware on because you'd never want a rideplate to fall off!!!!"

223
Projects / Re: Original Problem child
« on: February 04, 2008, 11:00:05 AM »
Quote from: 2savage4you on February 03, 2008, 01:48:28 PM




From what the guy at the machine shop said, the bolts  go into the water jackets so there is nothing to stop the heli coil from just turning when you torque the heads down.  I will know more tomorrow when i go back and pick up the heads. I had them tanked and magged. This time i will talk to the owner, i dont even know who this other guy was ??? never seen him there before but...........




That roller motor sure sounds good right about now.......  But someone should tell him. All BBC are stamped HI PERF.... its nothing speacial ;)

2sav

You might be able to getaway with head studs just seal em real well.

224
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Where to find a block off plate for...
« on: February 03, 2008, 12:27:00 AM »
Most marine dealers in our industry sell Glenwood, they don't sell retail.  But they do have a website www.glenwoodmarine.com, mostly a PDF version of their catalog, but i'll save ya the trouble its an item number 686.

225
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Swapping small block for big block?
« on: February 03, 2008, 12:21:43 AM »
Quote from: R/C-PILOT on January 31, 2008, 07:10:52 PM
Rounded.
Sorry to leave ya hangen, but part of the reason I was curious about the shape of your keel is beacuse I think there is some performance to be had in you pump setup.  I've been lookin real hard at E pumps latley (my CVX20 has one), and i think Duane was/is really on to something with his ride plate and shoe kit.  Typically E pumps are installed high in relation to the keel so the sides of the intake don't stick down.  On a rounded keel this brings the mouth of the intake aprox 1/2" up from the keel, on Taylors I hear its even worse.  Ervan Capps told me Duanes kit works dreams on Taylors.
 
Anyway, mabey i'll start an E pump thred in the jet section.  Don't wanna get off track again this threds no over yet.

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