JB should have a "split bowl". Droop should bolt on.

Any ideas as to where to look on the 460 Ford?

Sorry, can't help with that as I never had reason to know. I see from a different board you have already talked with Paul/LakesOnly. He would be your best bet for further information in this regard.

You saved yourself some trouble. The 425 crank is a shorter stroke than the 455 and also has a different rear flange bolt pattern.

Sure doesn't look like an Olds in that thing.............

Hey guys, it's not you. That link is from February. Nothing stays on Craigslist that long....

Why do you need such long battery cables?

Remember, not all wires of the same gauge are created equally. The more strands of wire in a given size cable, the better.

Guys, you CAN NOT, MUST NOT indescriminantly swap counterbalanced flywheels/flexplates/harmonic balancers for non-counterweighted versions!!!!!!!!!!!

The counterweights you see on them are there to compensate for changes the manufacturers made inside the engines. "Internally balanced" engines will not have the counterweights, "externally balanced" engines will have them.

With the BBC, all FACTORY engines 454 and larger REQUIRE the counterweighted components. 427 and smaller were internally balanced from the factory and thus require non-conterweighted components.

With the 460 Ford, the early engines used non-counterweighted components. A change in the internal block design, where they extended the cylinder bores down closer to the crankshaft, forced a change in crankshaft design. This change made the counterweighted balancer and flywheel/flexplate necessary.

Any "externally balanced" engine can be converted to internal balance, but it must be done by an engine balancing shop. They will need to add "Mallory Metal", which is heavier than the metal of the crankshaft, to accomplish this. It is NOT done by simply swapping parts.

Yup ! Your f*****.  You can always buy a split bowl or a standard C bowl and be in buisness , maybe.  C bowls all day long for cheap.

-beerjet-

The C bowl is the same as the E bowl and a G bowl will interchange with either. The issue is not which bowl is on his pump, but the layout of the controls, that requires the different diverter setup.

I could be wrong, I usually am wrong, but I don't think it's the bowl that's causing the problems, I think it's everything but the bowl, I think...

Correct.

Plug your holes where the cables currently go . Put a diverter on it . Stab two new holes and your done . BANG ! Your new holes are going to have to be just under the swim step or if you dont mind , over your swim step. The problem with this pump is working with your exsisting cables . Thats where you get screwed . I think 

-beerjet-

When you do this, you also have to get up under the dash and flip the steering relative to the shaft in the helm. Cable must move the opposite direction compared to the JE setup. You are also out $70-100 for the necessary steering tube adapter on the transom and a reverse cable seal. If the transom is recessed around the pump this conversion may be difficult. It wasn't feasible on an 18' Bahner I helped a friend with a few years back. The steering will have to go UNDER the swimstep. Using Place's "Elite" diverter solves the reverse cable interfering with the swimstep problem.

Since the cable routing for a JE pump requires longer cables, for a cleaner conversion you would probably want to buy shorter cables. Another $150-200.

Over all, it's probably a break-even deal compared to just buying the JE diverter. It also takes more time than the JE diverter install.

If you are considering the installation of a droop in the future, the conversion to the JC/JG steering setup is necessary, as the stock JE controls just wont work with a droop.

According to Place Duverter's web site, the 12JE and the 12JF require a different Place Diverter. I don't know why...

The JE and JF have totally different control cable system than the JC and JG. This requires a different set of brackets and different machining on the steering nozzle section. I converted one once and it wasn't a cost-effective project.

The "Elite" is actually a combination of the two styles. It uses the JC/JG steering cable hookup and the JE/JF reverse setup. It is just a way to get the reverse cable down low to clear swimsteps.

Chromey, for what it is worth, the split-bowl and the one-piece bowl use the same diverters. The bowls themselves use the exact same stock nozzles so a diverter that fits one will fit the other.

 That is a pretty big mis-match, but it also looks like you have about a foot of run from riser to tip. Hose should work. If you decide to go with pipe, you would be better off using stainless. Gets pricey, tho....

Did he ever explain what it was they were doing or why he used them?  Just curious to know what area he was looking to for performance gain.

My carb guy recomended that I do that with the PCV's. He's been around the racing scene a long time. I'll stick with it unless it causes me problems. Why do you think it will be a problem/not work properly? Thanks.

Depends what he is trying to accomplish. Without a breather, no fresh air will circulate into the crankcase, meaning no fumes will be drawn through into the intake. Hence, no ventilation and the benefit of a standard PCV system won't be there. I can only assume that he is suggesting it as a "poor man's" way of building crankcase vacuum which is usually done to assist in ring seal. Not sure how much benefit there will be as the manifold vacuum in your boat engine at pretty much any speed above idle will be quite low. In a car, things would be different. Not saying his idea wont work or will cause problems, just kind of question its effectiveness.

I was doing some more reading in this thread. Saw your issue with the head studs. Did you get that figured out? Did the nuts torque properly without bottoming on the threads of the studs?

I am more than familiar with the Wells name as they manufacture replace ignition parts, but not sure they make any complete replacement ignition systems. Can you put up pics of the distibutor(inside and out)?

I can try to help you but, again, need to figure out what you have.

Correct. Nothing from "R" to coil IF you are running electronic ignition. No reason for the "ballast bypass" circuit when you dont have a ballast resistor. For the record, when GM went to electronic ignition they deleted the "R" terminal from the starter solenoid. Aftermarket replacements still have the "R" terminal to be able to service all applications with fewer part numbers. Saves them $$$.