Null

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - obnoxious001

Pages: 1 ... 8 9 [10] 11 12 ... 19
226
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: newb carb question
« on: April 21, 2011, 08:11:56 PM »
On an unmodified Holley carb, the "list" number is on the choke horn.

For a mild 454,, 750 CFM is probably the correct choice.  Yours is not rebuildable?

227
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Mechanical Oil Pressure Lines
« on: April 21, 2011, 04:56:11 PM »
Quote from: Brad @ SCJB on April 20, 2011, 11:13:04 PM
I will be calling my AN supplier (Sweet Performance) for the parts.

There you go,, Dave will take care of you!

228
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Mechanical Oil Pressure Lines
« on: April 20, 2011, 10:54:57 PM »
Quote from: Brad @ SCJB on April 20, 2011, 08:42:17 PM
I am going to be switching over to a dual mechanical oil pressure gauge setup. One to take readings from the front near the oil pump, and one for the rear of the block to see oil pressure variances from the front to the rear of the block.

What do you guys use for mechanical oil pressure lines? I dont want to use the cheap nylon tubing that comes with the gauges.

Should I use basic AN stuff? if so, what gauge? or do I need to go with some pressed type stuff like you see on hydrolic lines?

Brad,, it's pretty common to use -3  or sometimes -4 braided lines.  Much of my experience has been around ski race boats that get run real hard, and for many of them cost is not an issue(cost was a big issue to me, but I still had braided oil pressure lines)  Depending on your gauges,, or what you buy, you can get ones that will accept the AN fittings.  I think you will find that you need to measure and get -3 made up buy a shop, rather than just buying the fittings and assembling it yourself. 

229
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: high rise intake
« on: April 20, 2011, 10:21:34 PM »
Pro Comp bought the rights to use the Professional Products molds for their intake manifolds.  Interestingly enough, those manifolds have been proven to make more horsepower than other USA name brand intakes in at least some instances.  I have put them on several dirt track racing engines that I have built.  I have also put them on a number of boat engines, and never really experienced a problem with fit, sealing or leaking. 

One important question that has been left out is what type and size boat is this in, and what rpm range are you running?

230
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: pressure relief valve
« on: April 18, 2011, 09:31:55 PM »
Quote from: 19ftDANA on April 18, 2011, 12:43:24 PM
I set my boat up a couple years ago with this system and my dad helped me set the valve to a certain psi.. He actualy passed away a lil over a year ago.. I rebuilt the motor this winter and im now installing everytyhing and i wanna double check to see that the valve is still set to the right pressure to open .... So my question is. what should the relief valve be set at to open at? and what would i use to set the valve? Thanks for ur time  ;D

If you are looking to verify block pressure,, you will need some kind of pressure gauge that can go into the water jacket somewhere where it's visible.   That could be an extra port in your intake manifold,, or you could go into one of the water drains in the block if you use a hose to route it to someplace visible.  If you go into the water drain, make sure the passage is open, not plugged with silt or rust. 

I agree that somewhere in the 15-20 lb range is workable and correct.

231
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: oil pan install
« on: April 17, 2011, 01:46:57 PM »
Quote from: german1 on April 17, 2011, 12:43:12 PM
i sent you a pm

I called your number,, you didn't pick up or return the call.

232
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: oil pan install
« on: April 17, 2011, 12:37:30 PM »
Is the engine on a stand?  Tell me exactly what you are doing.  Did you just pull the engine to swap pans, or is it a fresh rebuild or what? 

Anything you do with the oil pump should be done carefully, you don't want something coming apart causing the engine to lose oil pressure.

233
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: oil pan install
« on: April 17, 2011, 12:30:31 PM »
Quote from: german1 on April 17, 2011, 12:25:35 PM
so it would bolt on to the pump with the hose pointing down right?

You need to remove the old pickup tube from the oil pump.  Then the new one (in your photo) inserts into the round opening in the pump, and the tab gets bolted to the pump.  You will need to line it up first and see which bolt gets removed to bolt it up.  I would suggest red loctite on the bolt, but the bolt and pump need to be cleaned for it to have any effect. 

234
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: oil pan install
« on: April 17, 2011, 12:18:43 PM »
Quote from: german1 on April 17, 2011, 12:12:21 PM
anyone know exact mounting location for this? thought i would see with taking off old pan but it doesnt have one???

What exactly are you asking?  The tab should line up with one of the bolts on the oil pump.

235
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Carb issues, i think!
« on: April 16, 2011, 11:59:42 PM »
Quote from: Steel Gromet on April 16, 2011, 05:53:42 PM
I will check the bowls and if there is fuel I will go through it and see what happens.  Thanks again for the helpful info!! :beer:

What I was saying is that if the gauge shows fuel pressure, but the sight plug in the bowl does not, then you have a problem with a needle and seat.

236
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Carb issues, i think!
« on: April 16, 2011, 12:57:08 PM »
Quote from: Steel Gromet on April 16, 2011, 08:57:55 AM
It's a vacuum secondary and didnt open up the carb except to replace the accelerator pump gasket. Prob been siiting for 6 months or so.The gasket can only go on one way right! Nothing else has been messed with including the timing. Thanks for the reply ob001!

The accelerator pump "gasket" is actually the entire accelerator pump diaphragm, correct? 

As I said, first thing is to check and see if both bowls are filling with fuel.

Did you try moving the secondary butterflies by hand?  It's also possible the vacuum diaphragm needs replacing. 

Maybe just time to pull the carb apart, check it all out and put a kit in it.

237
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Carb issues, i think!
« on: April 15, 2011, 05:14:24 PM »
Quote from: Steel Gromet on April 15, 2011, 05:02:32 PM
Took the boat out to blow all the cobwebs out.  Would inly rev up about 3900 rpm's.  Ususally runs up to 5000 or so.  It appeared to be starving of fuel.  Run a Holley 4150(?) and just replaced the accelerator pump gasket. It has a fuel regulator w/ a guage.  Guage reads about 6psi.  Doesnt seem the secondary's are opening up and runs sluggish.  Any help would be appreciated. Thanks! :banghead:

Vacuum secondary or double pump?

Have you checked to see if there is fuel in bolt bowls, up to the sight plug?  Might be a stuck needle and seat if it's been sitting.  You didn't open it up while you had it off to replace the accelerator pump diaphram?

238
Boat Racing / Re: RIP - David Carrasco
« on: April 11, 2011, 10:33:38 PM »
Terrible news,, I have seen him in the pits,, and I had heard about that accident without knowing he was involved. 

Condolences to his family and friends.

239
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Engine almost dies when i punch it from idle ....
« on: April 09, 2011, 03:47:42 PM »
Quote from: 79charger on April 09, 2011, 01:09:18 PM

So I have to have some one give the the motor throttle while holding the timing light at harmonic balancer , until what stops moving ? new to this total timing thing . I just usually set the idle to 1200 and adjust it to 10 degrees . So my timing could be off?  Why is this different for
 boats.

The difference is within the distributor and engine, and to some degree, personal preference.  Within the distributor there is a mechanical advance mechanism that consists of weights and springs, and many times(as with an MSD distributor, or others) a bushing that limits travel.  That travel determines how much additional advance is brought in as the distributor spins, and the weights overcome the strength of the springs. 

What all that means is that you should be checking your total timing, after all of the advance is in.  I deal with mostly Chevy engines, and they tend to like 34-36 degrees total timing, on a carbureted engine, with less total advance preferred on a forced induction (blown or turbo) engine.

240
Engines / Engine Parts For Sale / Re: Gen 6 427 cu in shortblock
« on: April 08, 2011, 02:52:40 PM »
Quote from: 502 SPECIAL on April 06, 2011, 03:55:12 PM
i am interested in just the block?how much?

I kind of prefer to sell as a package, since the std bore pistons are not worth much without a standard bore block to put them in.  I would want $750 for the block alone.

241
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Engine almost dies when i punch it from idle ....
« on: April 08, 2011, 10:52:11 AM »
Quote from: 79charger on April 08, 2011, 07:19:13 AM
will have to check . usually i keep it around 9- 10 degrees

OK, you are aware that you need to check total timing, by raising rpm until the mark stops moving while you are shining the light on it?  Depending on the distributor you are using, and what's been done to it, you can't really set the timing on an engine by only checking initial timing.

242
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Engine almost dies when i punch it from idle ....
« on: April 07, 2011, 08:35:32 PM »
Quote from: 79charger on April 07, 2011, 05:33:36 PM
I put a 750 vacuum secondary Holley street avenger carb on BBF .Getting 5 psi of fuel pressure . If I punch it , It will almost die , But if i gradually floor it , it is fine .Plugs are chocolate brown . My guess is the accelerator pump ??? Any ideas ???

That's the best first guess, assuming it was running ok before you switched carbs?  Without the engine running, with the flame arrestor off, you can manually check to see if the accelerator pump is squirting fuel, either just gently pushing down the lever with your finger,, or even working the throttle.  If it does squirt a good stream of fuel, it may need a larger size nozzle.  How do you have the ignition timing set on the engine?

243
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: WATER IN OIL
« on: April 07, 2011, 02:24:41 AM »
Quote from: lupo1904 on April 05, 2011, 08:42:53 PM
when i smelled his oil, it smelled like gas and he has been complaining about how much gas his boat is using.He has a 502 with an 850 carb.What would cause gas in the oil to hapen?

That can probably be traced to either the float level too high, or a stuck or dirty needle and seat.  Any of those could allow excess fuel to go into the engine.  The engine won't be able to efficiently burn the excess fuel, so more than normal can end up in the oil.

244
Engines / Engine Parts For Sale / 600 HP 4 bolt 454 short block parts
« on: April 01, 2011, 12:52:35 PM »
I have a MK IV 4 bolt 454 block and rotating assembly that could make in the range of 600 HP with proper cam and heads.  Forged crank 7/16" GM rods, forged standard bore pistons and standard bore block.  Comes with nice Fluidamper and SFI flexplate.  Block is clean, but has one sleeve, and the crank will need a grind.  A deal at $900!


245
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Fuel supply line size?
« on: March 28, 2011, 08:55:19 PM »
Quote from: iloveitloud on March 28, 2011, 07:29:28 PM
Fuel gauge is the first thing I will do. Has newer Mallory Unilite distributer, and Taylor 8mm wires.  I have not even checked timeing,--I just put the distributer back in where it was when I re-built the motor, and it ran the same as it did before the motor spun a bearing. I'll be getting it out soon, and have more info.

Setting the ignition timing is critical to performance and engine life.

3/8" fuel is -6 in AN line size, and adequate for a regular 454... AS LONG AS THE LINE IS NOT SOFT AND ABLE TO COLLAPSE. 

I actually ran a 632 cu in engine on the dyno with two carbs fed with a single -6 (3/8") fuel line from the fuel pump to a -6 tee that fed two 850 cfm Quick Fuel carbs, to 6300 rpm.  I had plumbed it with a -8 but had a bad tee fitting, and had to use something else to be able to run the engine, no drop in pressure or signs of fuel starvation. 

Based on that, I would say your 3/8" line is fine for a 454 running 5000 rpm.

For a forced induction engine (blown or turbo), I would normally use larger lines, and agree with the -12 feeds from the tank into a tee,, allowing the tanks to equalize. 

246
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Cutting Snails
« on: March 28, 2011, 08:07:39 PM »
Quote from: Brad @ SCJB on March 28, 2011, 06:58:58 AM
Just curious....whats the benifit? Are there performance gains or sound differences?

I dont know how the casting is either on the snails. Does it open up the inner diameter of the exit of the snail too? or does this just allow you to run larger exhaust tips?

I have these same exact snails on my southwind and have always wondered if it was worth the hassle to do it.

Brad,, the logs are restrictive,, opening that type of snail allows more flow and should increase performance. 

247
Engines / Engine Parts For Sale / Re: Wanted
« on: March 26, 2011, 02:16:26 PM »
Quote from: riverjunky on March 26, 2011, 07:16:30 AM
I have a 427 in my jet boat, 1 head went bad. I'm looking for a set of heads for a 427-454.  If any one has a set please let me know.

What heads do you have, maybe I have a single one in my stash?

248
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: DIY cam slop taker-outer
« on: March 25, 2011, 08:25:37 PM »
Quote from: MPKardell on March 25, 2011, 04:38:19 PM
Definitely nicer looking than mine.......

Yep,, but more pricey!

I honestly was not putting yours down, but many guys would not have a lathe to cut the piece of aluminum you put in the cam gear, just threw the Cloyes out there because they are (like yours), much easier to set cam thrust, to where a guy without a dial indicator could even do it if necessary.  Cloyes recommends zero lash,, I guess since the aluminum expands away from the block.

249
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: DIY cam slop taker-outer
« on: March 24, 2011, 10:58:23 PM »
Not a bad idea.  Cloyes has a similar setup,, bolts right on and cam end play is easily set.


250
The No Wake Zone / Re: Puddingstone Races USTREAM
« on: March 19, 2011, 03:39:15 PM »
Quote from: enginedoctor on March 19, 2011, 03:18:20 PM
Any other racing news :thumbup:

Only two K boats there,, Ty Newton jumped the start in an SS heat and got put back,,, Mike Johnson spun out Danny Bell's GN 29 and sunk it,, trapped for a number of seconds in the seat or something, but apparently is fine,,, Rob DeVine easily won the GN heat after the restart when Wheeler's boat GN7 would not run for some reason.

Pages: 1 ... 8 9 [10] 11 12 ... 19

Null

SMFPacks CMS 1.0.3 © 2026