I'll tell you when I ran from sandbar to the naked turtle last Thursday, beached the boat and saw the exhaust hose smoking, I thought of this thread and how lucky I was. What did you do to keep the boat from sinking?

That night, I removed all regulation, now lots o water and everythings stays cool....

So far I've seen a max of 18 psi with a single 5/8th inlet, splitting 5/8ths to the logs, 2x 1/2 inch to the heads, out of block 2x 5/8th's at my self imposed limit of 4100 RPM.

I am running the Fram G12's, metal with 3/8th port size. I added a fuel pressure gauge too, so now it is sitting at 6-7 PSI no matter what I do. I did have a glass filter on it when I bought it, I'm not convinced those things flow enough.

PD's working great now.

The only other issue I had on the trip was the left side of the engine was overheating. I redid the plumbing on that side (slight kink in one of the hoses, doubt that was the issue, but you never know), and took out my pressure regulator. Once I did that, all of the problems went away. I am seeing 18PSI at the block inlet at 4100 RPM (my self imposed limit for this trip), so it looks like the regulator goes back to doing duty on my RV.

My manifolds were warm (but not hot, I could leave my hand on it for a minute) after a about an hour of running at 4100. Once I fixed the cooling issue, my oil stayed at 180-200deg. When it was getting hot, the oil jumped to 220.

make sure you are at 10 BTDC and not 10 After...

BTW - I ran my boat yesterday - Tunnel ram, twin 450's, 8.5 PV's (looks like I need 7.5's) 3 adults,2 kids coolers with drinks, lunch etc. 50 gal of gas on board, crusing the channel, driving to steamboat, pulling the kids on the raft, idling for long periods of time. Averaged 5.5MPG (GPS based Miles).

There is still a ton of tune left to go also....I haven't optimized the jetting, PV, squirters,or timing.

Havi has been great, esp copper canyon Sunday....

One issue, my hyd place divertor is not working! Leaving CC, the divertor stuck up! hard to drive with it up, and it finally went down; now it is stuck down. There is fluid in there, I don't see any leaks. So, is there a common place the pumps die / stop working so I can look there first? I am thinking it may be electrical, I checked the fuses under the dash, they were good (but I don't know if there is another fuse that controls it). I don't think it is a fuse though, otherwise the divertor wouldn't have gone down. Flakey ground perhaps...it worked flawlessly on the trailer and the short runs I did at elsinore.

I re did the fuel system yesterday, I am (still) having an issue not getting enough fuel to the engine. My pressure on Sunday dropped to 0 around 4K, which is better than the 3K it was before, but still not good enough. I redid how the inlets to the pump worked, took out some suction line hose (shortened it up by quite a bit, and made it all downhill to the pump to not trap air). I get to try it out today and see if that fixed it.

My carbs are lean too, keeping it running cold is a bitch. Gonna jet it up and play with the squirters. I also need to tweek the secondary idles...

Overall running good in the lower rpms, pretty good throttle response. The mufflers work really well, I may pull them out to see how loud it gets. The cam and exhause size says it should be WAYYY louder than it is...

$2.14 / gallon at San Jose Airport yesterday.

When I put in the 460 I added an MSD 6AL box.   I had no spark at start up so I just bypassed it and went back to the standard wiring.  I used the white wire for the points trigger.

I haven't had time to check it out but have read that the MSD won't work with a mallory dual point distributor.  It's a new tach drive distributor.

Have you heard this rumor?  Does anyone have this setup running?

Pull the second set of points out, the MSD just uses the points to trigger the ignition. The second set of point provides more dwell (charging time for the coil), but that is no longer needed and only serves to throw the MSD off.

I wanted to give you fellows an update on what's happening with the Milodon pan and Summit Racing.

Summit's tech guy said   "put on the stock oil pump".

Milodon said    "take two quarts of oil out"   it's probably the oil pump bypass.   Now, what the hell does taking two quarts of oil out have to do with the oil pump bypass

Jerks!

They say the oil is foaming and it's the motor's fault.  I said there is NO sign of foaming just loss of pressure.
I told them I ordered another pan to end the debate. 
I asked them if they would take it back if the pressure doesn't drop when I install the Armondo's pan.
We'll see what response that brings.

Seems they only want your money, they don't care if the parts actually perform as advertised.

There are really two reasons for no pressure at higher RPM's, the pump bypass is open, or you are out of oil.

Bypass open - if the pressure gets too great, as will happen with a lot of flow and always at the upper RPM's, the bypass is supposed to open up and let the pressure go out. If the bypass sticks in the open position, then you will have no pressure until the bypass closes. Normally it opens and closes to keep the pressure consistant.

No oil - If you are using the stock type pickup, those are pretty convoluted on a BBF. If you have a leak in any section including the pump, as soon as you start putting oil on the top of the motor and the pan is no longer completely full of oil, any leaks will cause the pump to suck air as soon as the oil level falls, even if there are several quarts of oil in the pan. You check this by over filling the pan by a few quarts and seeing if you have the same problem at the same RPM.

The other issue could be how it returns. Much like in the olds, where the issue is the oil doesn't return to the pan, if your pan is not allowing the oil to reach the pickup area expediantly, then the pan is full of oil, while the pickup area is uncovered. I don't know if the milodon pan has baffels, but if not, then this isn't your problem.

Another issue could be the depth of the pickup. Too high, and the oil level drops and the pump is uncovered. Too low, and the pan blocks the flow, so at upper RPM's the pump isn't pumping enough GPM, so the pressure drops. You typically want it about 3/8ths from the pan bottom.

I don't know how the windage trays are on the BBF, but I know on the Mopars if the pan isn't cut correctly for the windage tray, then the oil gets blocked on the way to the sump. That may be something else to check.

We are at the glorious Motel6 Havasu until Monday when we get our condo. Going out Sat morning, don't return until the 1st.

Partying at ?? Wherever the wildness begins. No kids for 3 days, gotta make the most of it.

What is the cheapest and quickest way to get a boat painted that would be good enough for one season?  I am thinking of picking up a boat that needs lots of TLC and I just need it to look halfway decent for the season and then I will tear it back down and really get into it.

Spray paint it white. It will look good from 10 feet no matter how crappy you did.  You could always use marine poly - but that is like 40 bucks a quart...

I'd vote for the nylon, stainless contacting aluminum will cause the aluminum to get eaten.

3.50? I paid 4.14 yesterday to fill up.

We should drill the s**t out of alaska, not only will is make gas so cheap we will all be happy, it will put terrorism out of business 'cause the middle east would suddenly be broke.

And yes, Elsinore was quite nice yesterday.

Overall a good day for me. I didn't have to get towed, I didn't have use the fire extingusher, and there were no fires on board. I made it under my own power all the way back to the dock.

My only problem is my new electric fuel tank selector switch apparently can't flow enough fuel to feed my engine above 3500 RPM. Maybe there is debris in there or something, and if my intake wasn't leaking I would have run it again after I bypassed the switch.

With the switch inline with the Holley marine pump -

1000 RPM 6 PSI
1500 RPM 5 PSI
2000 RPM 3.5 PSI
2500 RPM 1 PSI

bypassed, 6 PSI idle - 2K. My intake had a leak, so I didn't want to fry a valve. It's all fixed now, so hopefully my trip to the river will be good.

I'm just going to bypass it and suck off of both tanks for the meanwhile, and figure out the issues after memorial day.