I will post some pics up when I get home, which I shoulda done in the first place.  I'm sure I am calling it the wrong thing, I will point it out in the pic when I post it.  And GT, I don't know what the air horn exactly is.  When I post the pics I will include pics of all numbers I can find.

I will let you know.  Just mail it if I need it I will pay the shipping.

Jim, can you run a single carb set up on that scoop?  Thats exactly what I was looking for.  How much for the gauges nordie?  I do need the tach though, thats the worst of the bunch.  It bounces from 2500 to 4500 its so old, I can't tell exactly what rpm I'm running at.

Looking for a cable for forward and reverse control, I broke mine.  Also looking for some gauges, new or used, preferrably white faced.  And finally an old school air scoop, the kind with the three red dots any condition I will be painting it anyway. 

ok will due thank you.  Will be back on here in 7 months or so asking more questions.  Have fun this summer.

Ok so here are all the things that are going on with this thing.  I took it out today and it was running fine for about 10 min.  I heard a pop and slowed up and looked everything over and it looked ok so I hit the gas and it would not get up on plane.  Ok so I reach back and check the exhaust and there is nothing coming out of the right bank.  Perfect.  So I had to limp it back to the dock at idle.  Now for the questions.  What is the problem? Also have alot of oil in the bilge, and a leak from the heads so I'm assuming that I blew the head gasket, but thats on the left bank.  So I was looking up parts and I came across a page about the 455.  Good motor very forgiving yada yada.  So I started looking up parts and I came across a vendor and I started reading through looking at different parts.  They had some parts that could raise the temp of the water.  I've never seen my water temp get above 120, and thats no matter how hard I'm running it.  They claim that this motor is designed to run at a minimum of 160 or you will blow a head gasket.  I would normally think they were nuts but now it seems plausible? Has anyone ever heard of this?  I also though I maybe was running too heavy of an oil 20/50w.  Also my oil press fluctuates between 30 and 40.  Is that normal or should it be higher?  Not that this is a big priority I leave for afghanistan on tuesday so no summer out on the water    Just looking for info its bugging me to no end.  Anyone got anything to add feel free to chime in.  Also my headers are melting the water line.  Is there a certain type of hose to use? I was thinking of redoing all the hoses anyway with something heavier, maybe braided lines or something.

Ok, so maybe, just maybe I can let the 22 dollar lube slide.  Thats where I thought the bulk of the cost was going.  Nope charged me a 115 in labor.  WTF?  Now I understand that mechs need to get paid.  But 115 dollars an hour?  Oh and lets not forget the 23 dollar bottle of whatever gasket sealer they used.  Maybe if the dealership wasn't constantly fucking people over with outrageous labor charges and overcharging for everything, people would be more inclined to take their cars to the dealership.  Now why do people take their cars to pep boys and jiffy lube?  Because they can't afford an 80 dollar oil change.   Just for grins I checked with jiffy lube to see how much they would charge to change the fluid and reseal the diff.  89.99.   So if you can honestly justify why a the ford tech needs to charge over a hundred dollars more for doing the exact same thing then I will gladly pay.  But the last time I checked it was still just a differential with gears in it, fill plug and some gasket maker you can pick up at autozone for 6 bucks a tube.   

Yeah if I'd have known they where going to scam me like that I woulda done it myself.  But like I said it was already there to have the sway bar strut done, and I didn't want to drive it with the fluid so low the 25 miles home and break a gear. 

Sounds good fellas, thanks.

455 olds bored 30 over, clean hull, trailer in good shape.  Boat is in running condition.  More info/pics upon request.  Make offer.

Its got to be 316 due to the harsh environment.  I could definately work with the sheet those sizes are def doable.  Wouldn't even need that much maybe two or three sheets of the 8 by 40.  Is that bendable?  I'm not to familiar with the gauges of sheet metal.  How much to ship to Twentynine Palms Ca?  I would pay for it.  Its gotta be cheaper than buying, sheet metal prices are throught the roof down here.

I would liove to hear the outcome of your experiment, mine didnt go all so well. i tried a fuel/water hybrid in my BBF jet boat....

How do you think i got the name "Rodbender"

In my reading and understanding of what goes on, two things might have caused this.  1.  Due to an excessive enrichment of the fuel/air mix, the timing was not retarded enough to allow for proper ignition.  For example, if you were set at 8 deg before top dead center, and the plug fired, the resultant explosion what be faster, actually trying to drive the piston down on the up stroke, thereby causing a bent or broken rod.  2. You possibly didnt run a leaner amount of fuel, which would do the same thing.  Thats sort of the point of this, if your running leaner, but getting the same results, viola, better fuel economy.  So let the experimentation continue!

Almost done with the construction, should be testing wed or thurs.  And our hummers run on gas.