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Messages - propless

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26
WTB / Re: Looking for certain water dumps
« on: August 24, 2016, 09:06:11 PM »
I don't know if they'll work with how the hoses are connected, but for $11 ea I'd be will to get a couple and try.

 They're the same slip on hose as the ones I have just ribbed to hold the hose better, I have one that looks just like Jims new ones too.

27
WTB / Re: Looking for certain water dumps
« on: August 24, 2016, 06:58:39 PM »
 Figures you would have new ones Jim.  ;D

 Roost, new ones are your best bet.  :thumbup: This style tends to fail when they get old and they get removed and re installed, the heads snap off right when you think there are just tight enough. I wouldn't feel good about selling you used ones, they would probably snap when you go to install them. 

28
WTB / Re: Looking for certain water dumps
« on: August 24, 2016, 03:08:08 PM »
  These ?

29
The No Wake Zone / Re: V-drive members
« on: August 24, 2016, 02:37:14 PM »
 You probably have more than 1/2" of plate movement. Don't check it with the boat sitting on the trailer. The plates cant move properly when they're sitting on the bunks.  You push the plates down but they cant move down because of the bunks and it tries to lift the hull off the trailer.  Lift the rear of the hull an inch or so off the trailer, or slide it back so the plates are completely behind the bunks, then check it.  And always set the plates full up whenever the boat is on the trailer.

 And like I said before and K-034 pointed out, nothing under that boat should be brass/bronze now. Your going to have a long winter, but your going to learn a lot.

 How much space do you have between the back of the strut and the front of the prop ?  I've seen some of these old ski boats with LOTS of shaft sticking out behind the strut. That's a bad thing, and sense your going to changing the strut its the prefect time to move things around if it needs it.

30
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Engine will not start???
« on: August 22, 2016, 01:09:52 PM »
I got my engine in and hook up in new hull. After turning engine over with plugs out, everything is spinning freely. I have both oil and fuel pressure. The battery is reading 12+ volts, terminal block 12+ volts, and coil is 12+ with key in on position. When I turn to start position engine just turns over. Pulled plug and no spark. With engine turning over i have a zero ready on positive post of coil. I hoping it's something simple as a bad ignition switch. Any thing else I need to check? Thanks Andrew

 At the key switch, make sure your ignition is hooked to "I" or "IGN" (Ignition) terminal and not the "ACC" (accessory) terminal. Accessory terminal will have power when the key is in the "ON" position, but no power in the "start" position.  If your 100% sure you are using the ignition terminal, then the switch is bad.

31
The No Wake Zone / Re: V-drive members
« on: August 21, 2016, 06:45:47 PM »
before the blower the boat was way under powered, trying to control the boat from porpoising and shut down were really the only 2 issues I had to worry about... well now keeping the thing in the water is my problem damn thing will jump clean out !! Lmao,, I need to get use to it being so far out of the water now, and whirlaway is on my to do list this winter, I reluctantly raced a jet boat yesterday and my butthole  was puckered tight!!!

Your friendly local v-drive owner..

 Do NOT race people till you get a prop shaft release in that thing. Take it easy till you make it safe.

 Ill add a couple quotes here, look who they're from. Prop release is less expensive than that blower you added. :-X
A wise person once told me "there's never enough money to do it right the first time but there's always enough money to do it twice"!!!!

Your Friendly local v-drive owner
Im sure you guys heard about the blown vdrive  that crashed at big river last weekend.. safety first!!!

Your Friendly local v-drive owner

 The boat wanting to "jump clean out" of the water is telling me the set up is wrong for that much power. Some people think any old flatbottom can be fast, NOT TRUE.  Most of them where set up to be ski boats, they have steep shaft angles to get them to lift quick and tow nicely. Throw a bunch of power at something like that and all that prop lift will just hop it right out of the water no matter what you do with the plates.  First thing to check is prop shaft angle.  If it has a 10 deg shaft angle you will really have you work cut out for you (example, my flat has a 7 deg shaft angle).  You better check the strut too,  it better not be some cast bronze piece. With blower power, nothing under that boat should be bronze, strut, fins, rudder, prop, nothing.

32
The No Wake Zone / Re: V-drive members
« on: August 21, 2016, 11:17:30 AM »
well, the blower really woke the Lil BBC up!! It's a completely different boat, gonna take some getting use to and some changes I imagine cuz it is a handfull, makes me nervous! !! Lmao I'm gonna have to hit u up soon for some advice. .

 Like K-034 said, BE CAREFULL !!  I've only driven one flat without a whirl-a-way and I damn near ended up out on the deck.  Without a prop shaft release of some kind, keep it slow and cruise.

 Whats it doing that's making it a "handful" now  ?? 

33
Boat Showcase / Re: 1979 FRESNO mini day cruiser purchase👌🏻
« on: August 19, 2016, 12:56:19 AM »
That looks awesome! How does the young one do?

 Apparently, someone is not to happy with it.   https://inlandempire.craigslist.org/boa/5736072030.html

34
Boats For Sale / Re: Looking for a good hull and trailer
« on: August 17, 2016, 08:31:03 PM »
 What are you looking for ?  Project hull, Finished hull ready to rig, complete minus motor/pump ?  Drag boat, Circle boat, lake/ski boat ?

35
Jet Pumps / Re: Prime- a -jet,bowl bleeder
« on: August 10, 2016, 03:13:32 PM »
I just back it down deeper than needed and pull it back up a little. Sometimes twice if it's a real shallow ramp.

18' Southwind,  Berkeley 12JG, full Berkeley Droop, bushed race nozzle,  butt bucket, stuffed,  shoed, plated and loaded.

No bleeder. Never once an issue.

For the record,  you should double dunk anyway,  it can flush out potential road debris.

GT

 Your a very lucky guy.  But not everyone is as lucky as you, lots of people do have this issue.

36
Jet Pumps / Re: Prime- a -jet,bowl bleeder
« on: August 09, 2016, 02:02:46 PM »
WHAT happned when you put what on??

 When you add a droop the nozzle gets lower. This can cause the bowl to hold a large air pocket when you first put them in the water. You'll put the boat in the water, start it up and the pump just whips a big air bubble around till it eventually clears the air out. Its worse if you have the reverse bucket down, it blows air bubbles back under the boat at the intake. Makes the boat hard to maneuver till the pump clears the air.

 The prime-a-jet is a small check valve that without the engine running is open to bleed the air out of the bowl. It closes once you start the engine and there is pressure in the bowl.

 I had one boat that did this pretty bad. Never added a prime-a-jet though. For a lake boat, you get use to it. For a drag race boat that goes in the water and gets towed to the start rope where you don't get much time to "fire it up and completely clear the pump" it can be very important. The last thing you want on the start line when your number comes up is a pump blowing bubbles.

37
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Carb question
« on: August 09, 2016, 01:16:15 PM »
That would blow my theory that it's a holley main body.

 Not really, it could be a Holly main body, the early QFTs did use Holly main bodies. But sense that float bowl has no pump or passages for one, the passage in the main body doesn't go anywhere.

38
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Carb question
« on: August 09, 2016, 02:52:11 AM »
There's a story floating around that did a build and it coughed up over 425 horse with off the shelf parts.

GT

  Well OK, first off a custom ground cam and ported heads does NOT equal "off the shelf parts".  :screwy:

 Quote from that thread "did our port work and typical marine treatment to the heads" Have to wonder what the port work would cost to a customer.   Then take those crap heads off and just bolt on a set of large ovals and lets see the dyno numbers.  Large ovals are just not that hard to find. And IMO, by the time you pay some porter to work those tow truck heads into something that kinda works, you would have been money and HP ahead to just start with a better head.

 But none of this helps this guy figure out what size his carb is.  ???

39
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Carb question
« on: August 08, 2016, 09:39:47 PM »

Marking that sh!t on the calendar.....   :sly:


Miss you bro.  :thumbup:


GT

  ::) I agree with you every time, when your right.  >:D

 If you miss the bickering and it would make feel more at home, I could comment about the peanut port tow truck heads.  :-X

40
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Carb question
« on: August 08, 2016, 08:45:48 PM »


A vacuum suckmydairy has no secondary squirter and I believe QFT uses the same bore section on all carburetors of the same size...

Could be FOS though..  :-\

 X2 the passage is in the main body, but sense the bowl doesn't have a pump it just stops down there.  Wont hurt anything.

41
Random Boat Parts For Sale / Re: HUGE parts sale
« on: August 07, 2016, 09:25:35 PM »
 Just want to say thanks to everyone. EVERY person that wanted something showed up and got their parts, not one person flaked and didn't show.  :thumbup: :thumbup: The V-drive stuff I had listed on the other site was 50/50.  ???  Just like the old days, still a great group over here.  Wish I could have stayed longer and hung out more, next year.

 Edited the first post and marked things SOLD. Still a few little things left, but now its + shipping.

42
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: 460 running on the hose
« on: August 07, 2016, 09:03:21 PM »

 If your looking at an old electric oil pressure gauge in the dash, pick up a cheap mechanical gauge and just stick it on the engine. You might just have a bad gauge, wire, or sender acting up from vibration when the engine is running.  I keep a mechanical gauge in my tool box I use for first start situations. Seen to many wonky electrical gauges to trust one on a fresh engine unless I know 100% the gauge/wiring/senders are good.

43
 Thanks for the mag wheel and help back to the freeway. 

44
The No Wake Zone / Re: V-drive members
« on: August 07, 2016, 08:24:26 PM »
So since socalvdrive.com just came up on instagram I was curious how many people on here actually own a v-drive ?? I'm feeling alil lonely today!!! Lmfao... O0

Your friendly local v-drive owner..

 1986 Daytona sprint.  Will be on the water in the spring.  >:D

45
Boat Racing / Re: Roll Call: 2016 Long Beach Sprint Nationals
« on: August 05, 2016, 10:25:57 PM »
I'm gonna try to make it out sunday.. never been to a circle race..

Your friendly local v-drive owner.

  :o Never been to a circle race ? Your going to see a whole new use for that flatbottom of yours.  :thumbup:

46
Boat Racing / Re: Roll Call: 2016 Long Beach Sprint Nationals
« on: August 05, 2016, 10:07:47 AM »
I'll be there Saturday.  8)

47
Project Boats For Sale / Re: Hondo 18ft v-drive
« on: August 05, 2016, 01:45:12 AM »
been on here since 2009  perf boats is dead..everybody went to bad azz boats face book

 Newbie.  ::) 

48
Project Boats For Sale / Re: Hondo 18ft v-drive
« on: August 04, 2016, 10:50:16 PM »
what r u doing over here.......... :o

 What am I doing here ?  Been here sense 2007.   :P  Just finally selling off all my Jet parts, I didn't bother listing the Jet stuff on PB, nobody on there lately and the guys here actually buy things.  :thumbup:  What are YOU doing here ??  :sly:

49
Project Boats For Sale / Re: Hondo 18ft v-drive
« on: August 04, 2016, 08:41:45 PM »
 Its all yours Mouzer, your just lucky the trailer isn't towable or it would probably be following me home after the races Saturday.  ;)

50
 What size is that single US mag ? And how much ?  I have one with some pretty bad curb rash.

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