26
Projects / Re: Olds 482 stroker build
« on: May 13, 2015, 04:11:33 PM »
Looks like you're movin' right along... great progress! Curious what you piston, main and rod clearances are?
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27
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: 454 with HEI ign module keeps failing
« on: May 12, 2015, 02:20:03 PM »
Sorry to hear about your module issues. I had a Fiero once (no laughing! Well, ok maybe a little laughing 
) that was eating modules. Turned out to be a faulty MSD coil. Changed that out to a stock one and problem went away.
One thing that's vital when changing the module is that the mounting surface is clean. Use a soft nylon or wire brush to get any corrosion off that plate. Then make sure you use the goo that comes with the module. It's there to conduct heat away. Any old goo or corrosion will inhibit heat transfer and could fry the module.
Hope you get it figure out!
) that was eating modules. Turned out to be a faulty MSD coil. Changed that out to a stock one and problem went away. One thing that's vital when changing the module is that the mounting surface is clean. Use a soft nylon or wire brush to get any corrosion off that plate. Then make sure you use the goo that comes with the module. It's there to conduct heat away. Any old goo or corrosion will inhibit heat transfer and could fry the module.
Hope you get it figure out!
28
Projects / Re: 1970 Weiman
« on: May 08, 2015, 05:37:56 PM »
All this talk of valley covers reminded me... We had a G8 motor come in the other day and I noticed the LS3 valley plate has provisions to block off Active Displacement, has an oil pressure fitting and has a breather tube with baffles. Here's a link with a pic...
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-12599296?seid=srese1&gclid=CLr9ifSws8UCFROVfgod85AAfg
Just make sure you put all 8 o-rings in the cover, or better yet tap the AD oil feeds and install pipe plugs. Customer had low oil pressure with oil consumption and smoking on hard acceleration. Sounds like a whipped motor but was actually missing a few of those o-rings. Oil was squirting into the PCV and filling the intake! Replaced those o-rings, cleaned the intake and whadayaknow... oil pressure shot up and smoking stopped.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-12599296?seid=srese1&gclid=CLr9ifSws8UCFROVfgod85AAfg
Just make sure you put all 8 o-rings in the cover, or better yet tap the AD oil feeds and install pipe plugs. Customer had low oil pressure with oil consumption and smoking on hard acceleration. Sounds like a whipped motor but was actually missing a few of those o-rings. Oil was squirting into the PCV and filling the intake! Replaced those o-rings, cleaned the intake and whadayaknow... oil pressure shot up and smoking stopped.
29
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Ring gap? Olds 455 .030 over forged pistons
« on: May 07, 2015, 03:42:24 AM »My sincere apologies to the OP for causing the negative direction that this thread has taken.
Chad, PM sent
Joe, you're a stand up guy that has my utmost respect. We may have caused a little side track in the negative direction but at least we got a dialog going
(trying to find the silver lining here... LOL ). 
cheers
30
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Ring gap? Olds 455 .030 over forged pistons
« on: May 06, 2015, 05:47:06 PM ». Pull your panties up Joe never called you anything....,,wow
Sent from my iPhone using SoCal Jet Boats
You're right, he didn't say "Chad, you're a Fn idiot!" His ended his post with a quote saying whoever told him the same thing I'm saying is an "Fn idiot". Not difficult to read between those lines.
Kinda like if I were to say I was talking to a guy who once told me "It's amazing how the nut huggers come out of the woodwork when no one was talking to them." Bet you feel like I just called you a nut hugger, huh? Well, I'm not (honestly). Just making an example to show where I'm coming from.
Look, I offered a differing opinion based on experience and working in the industry. I thought I presented it in a respectful fashion. If my initial post didn't come across that way I apologize. Perhaps it's best if we agree to disagree on this one.
31
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Ignition break up
« on: May 06, 2015, 02:35:05 PM »Not going to get on the soap box.
But why in the ever loving hell you anyone rep that crap? I would not have even offered to sell that garbage in my shop when I had it.
I guess people will do anything to make a quick buck...
Here is my thinking (then I will hop down off the box).
I am the shop owner... I order the material for stock, keep it in inventory, pay the inventory taxes on it, pay someone to sell it and/or fill the order, take the money, deposit in my bank account, print receipt... Then when it comes back, pay someone to perform the return, box the bitch back up, pay someone to ship it back to the distributor. It cost me money to sell a counterfeit, third world complete piece of shit..... How is that even sustainable?
Am I the only one that sees it that way?
Glad you got your cash back.
GT
Let me start by saying I 100% agree with you on selling cheap knock off parts. It's the consumer that's driving this trend. I can't tell you how many times a week I get asked "what's the cheapest?" It's these guys that force shops to find the cheapest part available to try and compete. I wish I could sell Brodix or AFR heads all day but many people don't want to spend the coin when Chinese knock-offs are available.
As for the shops, it's a numbers game. If they have a 20% failure rate but you're making 80% profit on each unit you're still ahead. Not how I like to do business because I'm like you... do it once and do it right. But when the backyard guy on a budget comes in, he's willing to take those odds and risk it. We do our best to educate the customer but many times it falls on deaf ears or they hop online to find it cheaper. It's frustrating but goes with the territory.
I think this speaks to the core of what's wrong with our economy and job situation. Everyone want's to stretch their dollar further without thinking of the long term effect. I personally haven't set foot in a WalMart in years because I disagree with their business model. I try my damnedest to find Made in USA on whatever I buy but it's becoming nearly impossible!
Sorry for the soap box thread jack... guess the pent up frustration comes out when someone mentions the subject... LOL!
32
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Ring gap? Olds 455 .030 over forged pistons
« on: May 06, 2015, 01:51:56 PM »
Well at least you called me an F'n idiot respectfully... so, uh... thanks? 
I never claimed my way was "better" than yours or that you were doing it wrong so get off your high horse. All the money you and others spend at machine shops... thank you... as manager of a shop that's been around 71 years I appreciate your support of the industry. However, also as a guy who has been around the block a few times I have a clue about what I'm talking about from 1st hand experience, not just reading or talking to sales guys (which I also do but also have experience to take that all with a grain of salt). It's the inexperienced guy that sees only black and white, right or wrong. The true expert knows the shades of grey, and obviously that isn't you.
WD40 is fine for what he's doing for this particular application.
I never claimed my way was "better" than yours or that you were doing it wrong so get off your high horse. All the money you and others spend at machine shops... thank you... as manager of a shop that's been around 71 years I appreciate your support of the industry. However, also as a guy who has been around the block a few times I have a clue about what I'm talking about from 1st hand experience, not just reading or talking to sales guys (which I also do but also have experience to take that all with a grain of salt). It's the inexperienced guy that sees only black and white, right or wrong. The true expert knows the shades of grey, and obviously that isn't you.
WD40 is fine for what he's doing for this particular application.
33
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Ring gap? Olds 455 .030 over forged pistons
« on: May 05, 2015, 06:36:59 PM »IMHO, WD-40 is too thin to properly prevent micro-welding of the rings to the bores and ring lands. I would also worry about it diluting your oil on first fire. I have always used the same oil as will be run during break-in to lube everything that doesn't specifically get assembly lube applied.
I have heard that sprinkling Ajax into the carb during break-in helps to seat the valves, but I would never know because I would never try that.
Knowing that opinions vary... I've used WD40 on anything from a 60hp Chey Luv pickup to a 700hp turbo small block... no problems
34
Engines / Engine Parts For Sale / Re: B&M 168 tooth external balance BBC flexplate
« on: April 29, 2015, 06:09:33 PM »
Just a thought.... keep it in case you decide to step up to a 454 later.
35
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: 396 BBC balance help
« on: April 28, 2015, 12:38:27 PM »
I'm sorry, I couldn't read a word you said because your avatar has my ADD in overdrive... LOL!
36
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Harmonic balancer
« on: April 28, 2015, 12:37:11 PM »Well, I look at it this way. Since he was already bitten in the buttocks by a $300 piece, he may as well see what quality looks like for $340.
Could be wrong, it's always been easy for me to spend other people's cash. Lol.
GT
Sent from my SCH-I545 using SoCal Jet Boats mobile app
OK, didn't realize the price difference was only $40. For that amount the IW unit is a steal over the Summit brand hands down. I've only used the crank trigger units which were $700+ IIRC (been a few years).
I totally understand where you're coming from with Made in the USA and I try to do the same myself. Not 10 minutes ago I convinced a customer to get an Edelbrock manifold over a Professional Products. That being said, not everyone needs a $340 damper when a $220 PP Chinese unit will do the job at their level. We sell them because they fit the bill for lower end builds. I've used them on warmed-over Fords and Chevys and so far so good, no defects. *knocks on wood*
Sorry for the thread-jack...
37
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Harmonic balancer
« on: April 28, 2015, 11:05:44 AM »
Innovators West makes bad arse stuff for sure! I've used them on high-end builds. The crank trigger units they have are amazing.
Depending on your application it may be overkill, though. Like running billet steel rods in a 500hp build. Sure they'll work great but do you really need to spend that much? Food for thought.
Depending on your application it may be overkill, though. Like running billet steel rods in a 500hp build. Sure they'll work great but do you really need to spend that much? Food for thought.
38
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: 396 BBC balance help
« on: April 28, 2015, 10:57:33 AM »
Great! Glad you figured it out! While you have it out don't forget to check the damper too.
39
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: 396 BBC balance help
« on: April 27, 2015, 07:28:13 PM »
BBCs and SBCs follow the same basic balancing convention... all are internal except the biggest one. IE: 454 BBC and 400 SBC are externally balanced.
I've seen people replace a 396 with a 454 and reuse the 396 damper and flexplate. Major vibrations!
If you're sure it's a 396 definitely check both the damper and flexplate/flywheel for a weight. There should be none on either.
Flywheel comparison:
Flexplate comparison (size isn't always different, it was the only pic I could find):
If the balance of the flywheel and damper are OK you could have bad U-Joints or a misaligned drive shaft. There are threads on that topic here, search should bring some up.
I've seen people replace a 396 with a 454 and reuse the 396 damper and flexplate. Major vibrations!
If you're sure it's a 396 definitely check both the damper and flexplate/flywheel for a weight. There should be none on either.
Flywheel comparison:
Flexplate comparison (size isn't always different, it was the only pic I could find):
If the balance of the flywheel and damper are OK you could have bad U-Joints or a misaligned drive shaft. There are threads on that topic here, search should bring some up.
40
Projects / Re: Olds 482 stroker build
« on: April 24, 2015, 06:01:48 PM »
Looks bad ass, bro! I'm building a warm 455 right now too. Nothing like yours, though!
Couple questions came to mind when looking at your pics, and keep in mind I'm a 1st time Olds builder so the info I have comes from asking, not doing...
1) On your main cap, from what I've read it's recommended to grind /shape / blend the area where the pump mounts to match the opening of the pump. This is supposed to help tremendously with oil flow. Curious why you chose to skip this step?
2) Again from reading, many people mill 1/2" wide by .020" deep slots into the rod caps to aid in oil flow between the rods. I know you have aftermarket rods (how long are those mofos by the way??!?! NICE!)... did the rod manufacturer or vendor say anything about this mod?
3) Can't tell from your pics, did you blend the oil holes in the upper main saddle for increased flow?
Attached is what I did to my main cap and oil drain back holes.
Couple questions came to mind when looking at your pics, and keep in mind I'm a 1st time Olds builder so the info I have comes from asking, not doing...
1) On your main cap, from what I've read it's recommended to grind /shape / blend the area where the pump mounts to match the opening of the pump. This is supposed to help tremendously with oil flow. Curious why you chose to skip this step?
2) Again from reading, many people mill 1/2" wide by .020" deep slots into the rod caps to aid in oil flow between the rods. I know you have aftermarket rods (how long are those mofos by the way??!?! NICE!)... did the rod manufacturer or vendor say anything about this mod?
3) Can't tell from your pics, did you blend the oil holes in the upper main saddle for increased flow?
Attached is what I did to my main cap and oil drain back holes.
42
Jet Pumps / Re: PD Pivot Pin Removal?
« on: April 17, 2015, 12:13:29 PM »
Thanks, everyone. Will try these ideas over the weekend
43
Jet Pumps / Re: PD Pivot Pin Removal?
« on: April 16, 2015, 05:23:14 PM »The pins on mine slide all the way thru. Allen head bolt holds them in place
The pins for the trim pivot do go all the way through. This pin is for the reverse bucket and it does not go all the way through.
Since your getting a new coat of paint on it have u tried heating the out side of it or pulling Out the set screw and putting a screw driver in and try sliding it out
Haven't tried heat yet. I did put a small screwdriver in the retaining bolt hole but there isn't much in there to pry against.
Thanks for the ideas everyone, keep em coming
44
Jet Pumps / PD Pivot Pin Removal?
« on: April 16, 2015, 02:14:27 PM »
Aloha guys,
I'm getting ready to have the powder coating stripped off my Place Diverter and need to disassemble it. Everything seems pretty straight forward except the pins the reverse bucket pivots on. They're in a blind hole with no way I can see to push them out. Short of welding a bolt on the end and slide-hammering them out is there a trick I'm not seeing?
Attached is a pic of the pivot pin in question.
Mahalo,
Chad
I'm getting ready to have the powder coating stripped off my Place Diverter and need to disassemble it. Everything seems pretty straight forward except the pins the reverse bucket pivots on. They're in a blind hole with no way I can see to push them out. Short of welding a bolt on the end and slide-hammering them out is there a trick I'm not seeing?
Attached is a pic of the pivot pin in question.
Mahalo,
Chad
45
Boats For Sale / Re: Craigslist & ebay boats
« on: April 16, 2015, 11:47:47 AM »
I'm going to have one of those Bad Berk shirts made up and rock it in the Tahiti... LOL!
46
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Ring gap? Olds 455 .030 over forged pistons
« on: April 14, 2015, 03:35:43 PM »
I was also always told the higher the ring land is on the piston the tighter the gap should be. That always seemed counter intuitive to me.
Maybe someone can tell me why. My suspicion has always been to prevent pressure build up under the top ring, but that is just a guess. My Venolia pistons only have about .2" of upper land above the ring. Whereas the JE version of the same slug is .325". That is what brought it up.
I will say that the Venolia's are coated.
GT
That's interesting. The only thing that comes to mind is perhaps the JE, with its low top ring, is designed for forced induction while the Venolia is more of an NA setup? That would explain the wider gap on the JE as well? Just spit-balling here as this is the 1st I've heard of that. Would be interesting to know the theory behind it.
47
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Ring gap? Olds 455 .030 over forged pistons
« on: April 14, 2015, 01:39:18 PM »
I'm the 1st to admit I run my gaps loose... probably a couple thou looser than needed. It's a precaution thing to help protect people from themselves and keep them from coming back and saying I didn't build their engine right when in reality they were out being stupid with the motor. So far so good, no one has come back with damage related to ring end gap yet *knocks on wood*.
FWIW, a couple thou looser on the 2nd ring is said to promote ring stability and keep the top ring from fluttering. Pressure that gets past the 1st ring then gets caught between the 1st and 2nd rings and can cause the 1st ring to become unseated. A larger 2nd ring gap allows an escape path for that gas and helps keep the 1st ring seated. An accumulator groove between the rings on high-end pistons helps relieve the pressure as well. Read a tech article on that years back and have adopted that method since.
FWIW, a couple thou looser on the 2nd ring is said to promote ring stability and keep the top ring from fluttering. Pressure that gets past the 1st ring then gets caught between the 1st and 2nd rings and can cause the 1st ring to become unseated. A larger 2nd ring gap allows an escape path for that gas and helps keep the 1st ring seated. An accumulator groove between the rings on high-end pistons helps relieve the pressure as well. Read a tech article on that years back and have adopted that method since.
48
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Ring gap? Olds 455 .030 over forged pistons
« on: April 13, 2015, 04:07:09 PM »Ring gap is a product of circumference, ring material, and intended application. The ring lands are the hottest running porting of the piston because of the friction generated at the ring/bore interface. As the rings heat, they expand. This expansion is along the circumference of the rings and causes the ends to come into contact with each other, applying force to the cylinder walls and against the lands of the piston.
Ring seal is a function of the rings outer geometry interacting with the bore diameter, not the end gap. This means that combustion gases are not going to leak through the the gap, run around the outside diameter of the piston ring land, and then down through the next ring gap. There's just not enough time in 1/42 of a second at 5000 RPM. The goal, when optimizing an engine combination is to get the ring ends to just close up and contact within .001, but not actually touch. That requires a lot of trial and error along with teardown and inspection until right.
I would strongly suggest looking up the ring manufacturer's recommendation for end gap in thousandths of an inch per bore diameter for that specific ring. Then add the suggested amount in the event of supercharging and/or nitrous oxide, even if it is planned in the future.
It is better to error on the large side rather than be too tight.
Good luck,
Joe
If you read nothing else from what he said (all good info, btw)... remember this part. It is far better to have an end gap .010 too large than .002 too tight.
Wish I could find a link to a study the OEMs did back in the 70s when they were playing ring end gaps and their effects on emissions. I read it a few years back and found it interesting. Basically they found no significant change in blow-by or compression leakage up to somewhere around .070" end gap. Totally counter-intuitive, but that's what they found.
Being that jets run for prolonged periods of heavy load and WOT (both of which make heat) I 100% agree with Joe that the gaps should be on the loose side. The Mondello specs listed above would be good in a mild street car but in a jet run upper at .026-.028 and 2nd ring at .028-.030.
49
Boats For Sale / Re: Craigslist & ebay boats
« on: April 08, 2015, 04:47:09 PM »
After reading the posts I had to search it up at lunch... LMFAO!!!! I'll be honest, even though the Panther dude beat Bad Berk, he still had to go back and hang out with that pasty dancing dude in the speedo... so who really lost in that deal??? LOL!!
Also came across the adventures of Panthera video. Man, they had some good drugs back in the 70s!
Thanks (I think?) for bringing those up... some funny chit!
Also came across the adventures of Panthera video. Man, they had some good drugs back in the 70s!
Thanks (I think?) for bringing those up... some funny chit!
50
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: big block chevy "peanut port heads"
« on: April 08, 2015, 02:27:42 PM »Smog for one, restrictive (read quiet) exhaust, and all the accessories draw major power, all that is taken into account when rating.
I still say, with heads only, 30 HP would be a major stretch. That would make it a 350 hp engine. The Ass-O-Nometer would barely flinch.
JMHO.
Be an interesting experiment though. Do it in stages:
Heads
Cam
Rocker ratio
Intake manifold
Exhaust
Carburetor
Ignition
Pump work
And document the results at each stage.
That would be sweet.
GT
Sent from my SCH-I545 using SoCal Jet Boats mobile app
100% agree that heads only won't get you much if you're still running a stock cam and intake. Stock parts are matched to work together so when you change one the rest need to be changed to match. It's all about the combo of parts working together.
Quick example that we still laugh about today... A couple decades ago when we were young and dumb my buddy thought it'd be a good idea to pull the closed chamber oval ports off his otherwise stock 396 and replace them with ported, big valve, open chamber oval port Merlins. He was then surprised at what a dog the motor was after spending $2k+ on heads. Not only did compression drop through the floor, port velocity was way down at low RPM. It added up to a major loss of low end with a very mild gain up top... not exactly what you need to move a '66 Impala! LOL! Heads alone didn't gain him anything... but if he had been able to keep his compression, add a decent cam, intake and headers then he would have had a beast on his hands. Those heads went on to make 600+ hp on a different motor with a solid roller cam. It's all about that combo