26
The No Wake Zone / Re: Under New Management
« on: October 19, 2014, 06:39:23 PM »
Congratulations Joe! Good luck with the new family! 
Show Posts
This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
27
Jet Pumps / Re: Thoughts needed .. jacuzzi/panther
« on: October 18, 2014, 08:39:06 PM »
I wouldn't dismiss a boat with a YJ unless I was planning on making a fairly serious performance boat. The YJ's are tuff pumps and will get a decent hull into the low 70's mph. A good day cruiser pump, but I would agree it would not be my 1st, 2nd or even 3rd choice if I were picking just the pump.
29
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Milky oil around the distributor
« on: October 17, 2014, 08:56:58 AM »
The second or manual control valve is mounted up by the drivers seat usually between your legs on the stringer. You shouldn't have any water in the headers below 1500 rpm , this is where problems start.
What do you have for crankcase ventilation? You don't want any pressure in the crankcase if at all possible. You maybe experiencing normal condensation if your only seeing the milky oil on the top of the dipstick and at the base of the distributor. Heat from the oil starts burning the moisture out of it and it will leave milky streaks by places it's venting from when it starts to cool back down. Pan evac tubes to the headers or just adding suitable breathers to both valve covers may get rid of this problem. I get that same milky oil in my puke tank on my motor, but that's kind of what a puke tank's for.
Here's the type of valve most guy's run by their seat,
http://www.cpperformance.com/p-13241-polished-billet-exhaust-header-water-control-valve.aspx
What do you have for crankcase ventilation? You don't want any pressure in the crankcase if at all possible. You maybe experiencing normal condensation if your only seeing the milky oil on the top of the dipstick and at the base of the distributor. Heat from the oil starts burning the moisture out of it and it will leave milky streaks by places it's venting from when it starts to cool back down. Pan evac tubes to the headers or just adding suitable breathers to both valve covers may get rid of this problem. I get that same milky oil in my puke tank on my motor, but that's kind of what a puke tank's for.
Here's the type of valve most guy's run by their seat,
http://www.cpperformance.com/p-13241-polished-billet-exhaust-header-water-control-valve.aspx
30
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Milky oil around the distributor
« on: October 16, 2014, 06:37:28 PM »
Did your engine builder tell you that you need to start your motor when you take it out of the water to blow it out? If so, that's horse shit. The only water your pushing out of the engine is what is puddled in the exhaust, and what little you get out of the block from the impeller acting as a fan blowing a small amount of air through the water fill line. Your water is getting in the oil while the motor is running on the water, not from sitting on the trailer. Sounds like either a snow job or he doesn't understand boat motors.
31
The No Wake Zone / Re: Foam in the bow remove or not?
« on: October 04, 2014, 08:07:12 AM »Is this something that is really needed in our boats? Is it sinking that big of a possibility?
Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using SoCal Jet Boats mobile app
.....only if you get enough water in the boat!
32
Lower River / Re: Thinking about Blythe for the first time
« on: October 01, 2014, 08:13:25 PM »
Blythe is all about shallow water boating, jet boat heaven. Basically no night life unless you either have a place in one of the parks and party there, or you bring it with you. There's no bars (drinking) on the water. There's different sand bars and hang out spots where people go during the day and hang out if that's what you're looking for. For your first time you may want to stay at the Best Western which is right across the river on the AZ side at the Flying J truck stop. Not a bad spot to stay. There's a public launch back on the CA side right next to the Fwy. Mayflower and Hidden Beaches are up river and Rivera and McIntyre are down river. Water will be up in the morning and go down as the day goes. Sand bars will start popping up so keep an eye on the water. Lots of places to eat in town. If your a camper, Mayflower will be your spot. It's a county park, at least that would be my suggestion. Mac also has camping too though.
http://book.bestwestern.com/bestwestern/US/AZ/Ehrenberg-hotels/BEST-WESTERN-Desert-Oasis/Hotel-Overview.do?propertyCode=03115
http://book.bestwestern.com/bestwestern/US/AZ/Ehrenberg-hotels/BEST-WESTERN-Desert-Oasis/Hotel-Overview.do?propertyCode=03115
33
Projects / Re: Latest acquisition
« on: October 01, 2014, 01:26:18 PM »Just did the same mod on my winger trailer. Looking good.
Sent from my XT1080 using SoCal Jet Boats mobile app
Ahhhh! A trailer modification, know I see it! Good looking part Omar.
34
Events / Re: 2014 Southwind Regatta
« on: September 28, 2014, 05:55:41 PM »
So?
?? How was the event? Everybody having to much fun to comment? How about a pic or two???
?? How was the event? Everybody having to much fun to comment? How about a pic or two???
35
The No Wake Zone / Re: Broke down/motor carnage thread
« on: September 22, 2014, 08:13:25 AM »540 ci blower motor cruising at 4000rpm motor just stopped no noise or warning
Ouch!!! I think that hurt itself at some point before it let go. A blower motor screaming in your ear can definitely muffle sounds of a rod bearings last cries for help while gluing itself to the crank shaft.
36
The No Wake Zone / Re: whats purpose for a dolly trailer?
« on: September 22, 2014, 07:45:44 AM »
I converted my trailer to dolly this year. I cut 17" off each axle. My storage situation changed and my trailer was too wide to store where it's at now. I've towed from Riverside to both Avi and Blythe several times this year with absolutely no problems. I made sure to buy DOT rated tires, with a spare. I don't want to try to find a dolly sized tire in Blythe. Set the cruise at 62 and relax. First couple trips I'd check the bearings for heat every time we stopped and they were always cool to the touch.
Maybe best of all is like Jake said, it makes working on the boat soooo much easier too!
Maybe best of all is like Jake said, it makes working on the boat soooo much easier too!
37
Hulls / Re: i need some help deciding what hull to build
« on: September 16, 2014, 08:39:13 PM »
If there's no other variables, I agree totally with Crewchief, go with the WJ, you definitely have more performance potential from that pump.
38
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Ford 460 single plane or dual plane manifold
« on: September 16, 2014, 08:50:18 AM »Or just mill the divider down a bit...^^^^^
This is a good answer here. I'm a believer in a good dual plain unless all your doing is full speed passes. To me, you may just run your fuel bill up trying to find that extra power you think your giving up with the dual plain. All your parts need to work together for max gain otherwise you just become a "Bolt on Barney". If your heads and/or cam aren't going to want the higher velocity of a single plain then your just pissing money away. I would try Flusher's idea adding carb spacers and see if the engine likes that.
Here's a video with dyno numbers showing what the basic differences may be in the 2 manifolds.
Good FYI info,
39
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: HP gains with a center riser and a water jacketed header
« on: September 15, 2014, 08:38:40 AM »First off, welcome to the forum
Second... Well... typically, an engine would not be dynoed with log manifolds. In my dyno experience, typically a set of dyno headers would be used. Sometimes, if they would fit, the customer’s exhaust was tested. Regarding the amount of horsepower of said SBC, a lot would depend on the tests and how they were run. I don’t think that it is possible to run logs during a dyno test, at least not the aluminum logs. If said SBC made 400HP with dyno headers, log manifolds would yield substantially less horsepower. I have heard claims regarding the flow capabilities of the center riser manifolds and in looking at their design, I agree that they are an improvement over logs. I just can not believe that they are on par with a good set of headers.
My thoughts on this are: They do not have smooth contoured bends, especially at the all important departure angle at the head flange, where the exhaust transitions from the port into the primary tube/port (in the case of manifolds). The cross-sectional shape is inconsistent and allows for gaseous expansion at various places. This causes the gasses to lose velocity in the areas of expansion and causes pumping losses in areas where the gasses are forced to increase velocity. I don’t see much intentional tuning with the cross-sectional area. The lengths of the ports are short and are combined with a collector area that is less than ideal. Lastly, the inner surface is rough and increases surface friction and therefore restricts flow.
In certain automotive racing classes requiring exhaust manifolds, significant gains can be made by porting the manifolds. The majority of work is concentrated in the flange area so that no part of the manifold covers the port in the head. Actually, an intentional mismatch where the port in the manifold is larger than the port in the head helps to prevent reversion and intake charge contamination. Unfortunately for us as boaters, the largest gains with manifolds occur with the merge collectors of the exhaust pipes merging into a single exhaust. This type of system will provide the best scavenging with a manifold; however I do not see a way to incorporate this type of system into a boat. I suppose that you could do an OT setup, but in my opinion, a good header setup will make more power.
Sorry for the long winded reply, in short, I don’t think that you would feel a difference, there might however, be a measurable difference. You will also have to re-jet your carb to realize any difference at all.
Good luck,
Joe
Ya, What he said^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^!
I would add that HP wise it could be 45 hp or so, but depending on the boat your using, the difference in performance could be 2-5 MPH with a well set up hull, or virtually nothing in a family boat that most of us have. Headers would probably give you a better throttle response, maybe a couple more RPM, but your hull is going to be your biggest determining factor to performance gains.
In English, is it worth 2K for a set of CMI's just to get rid of your logs? Not unless the rest of your boat is pretty well dialed in and you need another 5MPH. JMO.
40
The No Wake Zone / Re: How to polish???
« on: September 15, 2014, 08:18:46 AM »
Embee did my headers and I don't remember the cost exactly, but I know they were less than $400.00. I think $300.00 sounds right. As far as I can tell, they did a very nice job, but they're black and I run them dry quite a bit so.....
41
The No Wake Zone / Re: Once in a lifetime deal
« on: September 14, 2014, 09:01:02 AM »
An 8 ball of Elsinore's finest rocket powder will probably get you the ray Sun Craft, the motor, the trailer and the wheels off his old lady's car to make the trailer roll.
42
The No Wake Zone / Re: Once in a lifetime deal
« on: September 13, 2014, 05:28:39 PM »
But not any old hemi, a "KEITH BLACK HEMI"!! That must be the triple rare part of the boat.
43
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Looking for advice - screaming top mount BBC starter horror
« on: September 13, 2014, 05:18:08 PM »
That's a lot of metal coming off of somewhere. If you want to try and do this your self, about the only way I know of on a top mount to check engagement is to paint the teeth on the flywheel and the drive. Then you can crank it a couple times, pull the starter off and see what's going on. The flywheel will always stop in one of 4 places. Your big problem is there's not much you can do to relocate that starter with out removing the bell housing as far as I know.
If you don't want to mess with it, take it to GS Marine in Norco. Greg is your best bet for a very knowledgeable and reputable shop.
http://www.gsmarine.us/
If you don't want to mess with it, take it to GS Marine in Norco. Greg is your best bet for a very knowledgeable and reputable shop.
http://www.gsmarine.us/
44
The No Wake Zone / Re: Once in a lifetime deal
« on: September 13, 2014, 08:20:56 AM »
I love Craig's List. See it's not just 50 MPH jet boats that do a 100+ on Craig's list, 60 MPH flatties do 135. I think the tweeker who posted that had his finger get stuck on the 0 key for a few seconds. That could be a nice $250.00 project if someone was in the mood.
45
The No Wake Zone / Re: elsinore yesterday
« on: September 13, 2014, 08:12:33 AM »Awesome!
I'm getting closer
Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using SoCal Jet Boats mobile app
What heads did you go with?
46
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Porcelain spark plug broke off fell in motor
« on: September 12, 2014, 02:50:03 PM »
Are you saying the electrode is burned off? If so the ashes are already blown out the exhaust pipe. Now you need to figure out why your burning up spark plugs. If you broke something pulling the spark plugs out, that's a different story.
47
Random Boat Parts For Sale / Re: Prototype Swimsteps
« on: September 12, 2014, 09:06:23 AM »I'm completely lost now.
-beerjet-
Just go with it Omar, completely lost can be a very comfortable place to be at times.
48
Engines / Engine Parts For Sale / Re: Mercruiser 454
« on: September 12, 2014, 09:00:41 AM »
Do you know is this a 2 or 4 bolt?
49
Miscellaneous / Spam / Re: Turbo kit for VW.
« on: September 09, 2014, 08:53:48 AM »
Yes it's a Car Craft set up. I bought it new in maybe 2004??? Honestly, I ran it, or actually my wife ran it (her car), for a couple of seasons before removing it. My wife decided after 1 trip to Glamis and 1 trip to Dumont she didn't like that type of off roading. She really likes hard pack like Johnson Valley or Razor Road stuff. So I replaced the turbo set up with a set of dual 40's to eliminate the turbo lag for her. Now the car is gone and the kit is sitting in my garage.
50
Miscellaneous / Spam / Turbo kit for VW.
« on: September 07, 2014, 03:54:27 PM »
turbo kit off my sand rail. T3-T4 Turbo, Weber 40 DOCE side draft carb, intake, exhaust all ceramic coated, distributor, waste gate, everything you need to bolt it on and go except a fuel pump, that went with the car.
Asking 1200.00 obo, Greg
Edit: I originally listed as a Mikuni, but it's a Weber 40.
Asking 1200.00 obo, Greg
Edit: I originally listed as a Mikuni, but it's a Weber 40.