sold!   

the shell i.d is 17-1/2" x 17" tall o.d.

local....diamond bar.

Just checking to see what if any is available. I'm helping a buddy with his boat and I think it wold be a really good idea for him to have one at this point. Anybody have a good jetaway unit for sale?  Please let me know. Thanks

whatever brand, color, type etc. it needs to be at a minimum rated EP for extreme pressure kinda like wheel bearings. Being water tolerant is never a bad thing either.

pulled the pump tonight to check how the impeller looks, and replace the intake seal. anybody have any input on tightening back down the pump? or gasket choice.


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WHen I build mine I prefer to just use 3m 4200 silicone, that way if one of the 5/16-18 bolts should happen to come loose hopefully the adhesive seal will prevent the suction housing from sucking air and causing the pump to cavitate. I also like to dry fit the s. housing to intake adapter and blend the flow path, mating seams and remove all casting flash, core shift parting lines etc. to insure un-disrupted water flow to the impeller.

mine is here now, great guy.


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Who is the gel/glass repair guy there now?

If your going to get racey in public and are new to the game my I suggest you put some tape on your steering wheel to easily identify when your nozzle is straight. Even many drag boaters do this. Will your boat (pump) load immediately and launch when you flat the loud pedal from an idle? The short answer to your question is nozzle down at the hit. As the boat begins to accelerate and raise up out of the water you will want to start raising the nozzle in small increments until it gently and (most importantly safely) rolls over onto plane. You will likely continue to raise the nozzle some with acceleration until you reach the ideal plane angle. It will be before the boat wants to start porpoising (at mid speed with nozzle higher up). This is a very basic bit of info. as there is a lot of rather technical minute details to learn and account for. If you are really unfamiliar with the whole process it would be best (read that safest) for all involved to find somebody there to ask questions of, ask to go for a ride and see how experienced people do it etc. and then go out in your boat and practice what you learned by yourself, away from other boats etc. simulating a race condition to get a feel of what to expect and how your boat will respond and what it wants, your nozzle position etc. Even with the wheel straight some boats don't launch straight. That would be good to know before you get side by side and wack the loud pedal. Ever notice how far apart the boats are separated at the race track? that's not by ACCIDENT if you get what I mean. Are you familiar with the phrase point of convergence? In fun, public racing situations it's common for both boats to be lined up straight at the hit yet end up very close together at the end of a run often requiring evasive action. Things happen very fast out there, even at 60-80 mph. when you are caught up in the excitement of racing for shits n giggles. Have a great time out there and give them hell. (sober and safely of course, with at the very least, a life jacket on) I hope this is of some help to you.

what type of tools do you have to work with? a multi-tool works really well with very little dust etc. and good control. If using a 4" +/- angle grinder with 1/6" thick cutoff blade it will be a little faster but produce a lot of itchy fiberglass dust.  carefully cut the fiberglass along the edge of the plywood angling the blade toward/into the wood cutting just through the surface layer of f.glass. once you have removed the plywood subfloor then you can go back and carefully grind the remaining glass lip down to the hull surface with 36 grit sanding disks. no two ways around it, it's a messy, itchy tedious job. good luck, have fun.

we can help you out much better if we don't have to guess at which pump you have. please provide a mfg./model desc. and pics. always help fill in the blanks too.

as a temporary fix to get you thru the summer until you can pull it apart this winter and fix it permanently/correctly? Or whats the best way to fix it in this assembled state? 
For a temporary fix, I would use alum plate and silicone. I would cut a piece of aluminum plate the thickness of the transom glass or a little thinner and slightly smaller than the inside diameter of the hole (ex. 1" i.d. hole, 7/8" o.d. plug) This allows for a complete silicone seal around the plug and glass. clean and rough all surfaces of the alum plate with 40 grit sandpaper and bevel both edges at least 1/16". Then do the same to the transom on all contact areas of the plug. Bevel the edges of the transom hole at least 1/8". Mask off all surfaces you don't want scratched first. Clean sanded and prepped glass with acetone. re-mask as necessary. Next, take a block of wood or something smaller that fits into the area and covers the hole on the inside of the transom, wrap with heavy duty wax paper, plastic wrap, serran etc. and use this to back up the hole during plug installation and clamp or wedge solid in place to where you can push on it without it moving. The plastic wrap should let the block release from the silicone leaving a smooth clean finish when set. Next, using 3M -4200 silicone, place a 1/4" bead against the backing block continuously around the perimeter of the hole, then take your alum plug and push it into the wet silicone until it seats against the block and hold it there for a couple seconds until it stays put. Finally, use your finger and push/compact and smooth any remaining silicone that squezed out the surface to insure the hole is completely filled and finish as you like. Let this set undisturbed for several hours until completely dry and solid. Lastly, remove the block from the inside and your ready to go tear it up on the water again. Good luck, I hope this helps.

I have the rail off my 18 Advantage (rogers copy) blue ano. alum. it's about 5/8" wide and has the small black rubber insert. It was in excellent cond. when removed. Been stored in the attic since. Let me know if your interested. $150.00 
I also have the railing off my 20' eliminator cruiser. Clear alum. it's the wider one about 1"- 1-1/4" wide with black rubber insert. Its in decent shape, a couple areas are dented. would be ideal for changing out bad sections on existing $50.00
Lemme know if either of these will help with your situation.

Just read the entire thread and WOW what an  awesome job by all involved. that badazz ride is coming along nicely and sure to be a show stopper. This boat will definately impress the v-drive crowd at Billy's deal in february and that's not easy to do. There is plenty of serious hardware and beautifully painted boats that event. Keep up the great work guys, lookin forward to the progress.