Awesome!  Thanks for the replies everyone!  GT, are you referring to the harnesses that they have listed that all begin with the part number MAR6117?  If so, that is a damn good deal, and I was expecting to pay around that just for the supplies to build my own.  That may be a better route for me to go.  As far as the senders, I will look in to replacing them, so everything from the sender to the gauges is new, and accurate.  That may be my best bet.  I will probably pull the fuel sender and see what it looks like, and see if I can play with the float on it and make the gauge respond to it.  Thanks for the help again!

So I am looking to sell some extra parts I have around the house here to try and fund getting new steering and forward/reverse cables so I don't have to wait until payday!  haha! Steering went out right in front of the dam on sunday.    I will trade whatever I have if you have the cables!  Let me know and I will get to measuring them. 

I realize this is my first for sale post, so please, if there is any concerns call or text my cell phone at 702-371-4127 or PM me here, my name is Lucas.  I have sold things online before, I can show you my reputation from various different car-related forums. 

Edelbrock 1410 marine carb 750 cfm.  This will come with the original box, sales receipts, and receipts for accel pump and rebuild kit.  Was rebuilt last summer by one of the techs at Lake Mead Marina.  It runs great, I swapped it for a holley so I could use my ski hook (bolts on to intake manifold). 

These are going for a minimum of $350 online that I have seen, so how about we call it $230  (Exact price of new control cables from CPPerformance)
IF YOU HAVE ANY CONCERNS I WILL HOOK IT BACK UP TO MY BOAT AND RUN IT NO PROBLEM!








Mallory Unilite Distributor with plug wires for 460
I will also hook this up to my boat to show flawless operation!
Not sure on price??  Throw me an offer



I also have a set of original 460 Hardin Marine valve covers that could use a good cleaning but are in great condition.  Also, make me an offer on these!


A K&N velocity stack intake with BRAND NEW K&N air filter that has zero hours, comes with receipt for filter, can see it in this picture of my boat (That is the old filter, not the new one) $50?




Also, I have a complete set of D3VE A2A valves, springs, seats, and keepers from my old heads.  $40?


A good friend of mine is also selling a bunch of things from his 460 build for his Spectra day cruiser that he never got to putting back together.  Everything is in amazing condition.  He has a fresh rebuilt 12JC-A pump, mirror polished exhaust logs, bottom end, the entire hull with new vinyl, etc.  Let me know, and I can put you in contact with him!

Thank you!

Lucas

Yeah there is definitely a couple wiring issues that i am trying to get all worked out, the previous owner was a bit of an idiot. haha

by RTR do you mean ready-to-run?  If so, then yes it is, this is the actual distributor here: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-83506/

There is 4 wires off the dizzy,

ORANGE to coil (-)
RED to coil (+)
Black to ground
Green to tach

I called MSD and they also said that it does not need a ballast resistor, but i do have one installed. 

My alternator only has two wires, the larger one runs in to the terminal block on the bell housing, and the smaller one runs up to the terminal block as well, but connects to the ignition switch circuit and then goes on to the input of the ballast resistor.

I can provide pictures of whatever would be of assistance, just let me know!

Thank you!

So I've been down for some time now, turns out both of my heads were cracked between the valves, so I got a new set, and a badass holley for the setup while I was at it.  Now I am about to go get me a starter here soon and try and fire it for this season!

My question is for the wiring on the distributor/coil.  It is an MSD billet marine unit with a blaster SS coil. The only wire that runs to the coil (besides the distributor + wire) is a wire that comes from the alternator excite and goes to the ignition and then to the coil.  i have read that there is supposed to also be a wire going from my start solenoid directly to the coil +.  Is this correct?

The person I bought it from had some cheap ignition box installed and this wire was not present, hence my asking. 

Thanks!

Lucas

I ended up getting 10 quarts of staight Valvoline 10w-40. Would it be wise to pull out a quart or so an add some sort of zinc-containing substitute? 

Thanks for the replies!!

My 460 was runing like crap so I decided to run a quick compression test.  Across the board 1-8 it tested 115, 115, 125, 115, 115, 115, 0, 95. I pull the valve cover on the one side, and the intake pushrod for my #7 was missing.  I thought cool, the rod is probably in the intake valley and thats why I obviously have zero compression in that cylinder.  I installed a new pushrod and tried to crank it over again, and twice it just bent the pushrod.  What could be the cause of this? I have no clue how long the pushrod was missing either because I havent gotten too much run time on it yet.  Thank you!

Okay so I am about to take my boat out tomorrow, and I need to get all of my timing adjusted properly, along with my idle.  Here is what I am going to go for, with a MSD billet dizzy and a 750 cfm edelbrock:


Initial timing 10-12*
33* total at 3000 rpm
Autolite 26's gapped to .045
idle @ 1200 rpm
fresh oil change with 25W-40 Mercury oil

Does that sound about right?  What should I start my idle mixture screws at when adjusting?  Should I adjust the carb or timing first?

Thanks!

I just took the distributor ground and cleaned it up with a wire brush and some simple green.  And I also moved the engine ground to the bellhousing like you suggested, and now I don't have spark from the coil again.   

I got a brand new coil and an msd resistor and installed both. I went to test spark from the coil as lbhsbz described and I get nothing. The only time im seeing a spark is from the jumper wire when I tapped it against the valve cover. Where is the best spot for the grounds for the dizzy and the engine itself?

did you keep your procomp box?

No, I got rid of that crap!

Here is a pic of the boat when I first got it.  Before waxing of course

Pointing towards the #1 cylinder or the wire?  I turned the crank until the pin (on the top left side of pulley if looking straight at it) was directly on the 0* mark on the pulley.  I looked at the rotor and it looks as if it is right on the #1 cylinder plug wire, about 10'clock.