How about the fuel pump loosing it's prime.   Bad pump is my guess.
If it sat long enough to cool I'd rule out the vapor lock.

Well??

Just one other thought,  when it acts up put a timing light on it to see if the dizzy screwed up and
advanced the timing.

If it does that you'll get the same thing,    slll oooow    ccccrrrrr aaaannnnnkkkkk

Hard to believe the ignition could cause enough voltage drop to stop the starter without
melting wires.

When you pull the wire you eliminate ignition.   The starter turns fine then. 

I think your dizzy may just be the dizzy part.

Good luck   

Well as usual I followed your advise and switched the hosed back before I went to the lake.
As usual you guys were right 

Must have been the shut off valve I put on restricting the flow.  It's fine now.

Thanks again 

I took the valve off today but left the hoses routed to the engine first.  I'll wait to see the temp and adjust from there.

This is the way the hosing was done with the other manifolds.   If these manifolds get to hot I'll switch the hoses, if the engine temp is to low I'll switch the hoses..... in other words,  we'll see 

Maybe the 1/2 inch ball valve is restricting it.  That was the only change to the hoses.
I'll pull it to see.
Thanks gentlemen   

We took our boat out yesterday for the first time with the new engine.  The temp was hovering at 180 and at times 190 degrees. These manifolds are the long bolt logs.

I figure the lake is going to warm up another 5-10 degrees by summer so I'm looking for a little more cooling.

I have a 460 bored .030 running 10:5:1 CR.   What I've done while doing the oil change is move the inlet hose from the logs to the water pump cover, out the thermostat and into the logs, through
them and back to the snails.

Anyone see any issues with routing this way?    The old manifolds and water pump cover were routed this way. 

There was only one hose inlet at the water pump cover (with the other manifolds) then out the thermostat  to both logs and right out the back.  They had no snails.

I'd like to keep it around 165 to 180.

I believe they copied FORD on this one 

Rear half of the block below freeze plug level.   Look for an Allen head plug.

If the carb vapor locks why would that effect the fuel pressure before and after the regulator  

I agree with the rest though, either the vents on the tanks (can't think they would both be bad) the pickups (again two bad one's)?  or crap in the line that joins the two tanks together. (would make more sense)  

If there is something floating around in the line it wouldn't allways have to be sealing off the line.

I would open every fitting I could to check it out.

Good luck, I hope you find something

Koyota, do you need another piston to match yours?   I pulled the head for a look see and it's nearly
identical to your broken piston.

I have a new set of flat tops and ordered new rods to beef it up.   It'll be ready in about
5 days counting time waiting on the machine work.

Thank you guys for keeping me from thinking it would be ok 

My son's boat picked up a miss.  I pulled the plugs for a lookie see and found
a plug with about .010 gap???  No sign of hitting anything thank god... I don't think
I need to hear the top of the piston is leaving the bottom....  There was no sign of hitting
anything either??

Anyone ever have that happen?

Thanks Tom, do you have the parts?

The pistons came in and we're getting the final parts needed for the build.   The pistons came
with NO info on ring gap etc?   What final bore clearance should we shoot for and what ring gap?

What ever happened to "this is what we made and this is best how to set it up"?