Anybody from SCJB that drives and comes all the way to Portland b4 turning right - I will buy you several cold adult beverages. I am right off I205 on your way between I5N and I84E.

Specially YOU GT!!!

There's only a couple of minor differences:
1) Our freeways only have 2 lanes.

2) In Oregon, for some reason we almost drive at the speed limit. Just a little over, nothing at all like SoCal where they arrest you if you are going under 100. Once you get to Wash, it's back to faster again. I've never figured out why the thing about driving mellow in OR.

Enjoy the wetness!

Either he just did his first oyster shooter, or.... I'm going to have to fire up the Gaydar

Electro - you've probably already seen this site:

http://www.classicglastron.com/

I don't know how reliable it is, but according to this site it sounds like their factory was in TX, which would explain why there are so many more of them mid and eastern side of the continent.

I've been trying to track down some photos of two CV23's here in the Portland OR area. There's a guy who has completely restored one and is trying to give the hull and trailer away for the other. He posted on Craig but now it has expired.

If I take my boat addiction to the next level I think I'm going to go for a CVX20. Keep feeding us all details about your CV23. I agree that this branch of their product line are really nice boats!

It seems like the Engineers, Designer, R and D departmets of said manufacture of pump would have to have such a device to collect data or improve on a product. Or at lest something similar to what you guys are thinking of shouldn't they? Not that thay would ever tell you how to make one.

I called 10 places around the US and even called the US office of Hamilton. They all said they don't have a pump dyno. American Turbine has an impeller dyno. So they can tell you how much shaft power an impeller absorbs - which is very important of course... but it is not the same as inside a bowl and with water getting sucked, rammed and who knows what else up the intake, through the impeller across the wear ring over the stator vanes down the throat and blah blah.

Now I may have been getting sandbagged by some of them that I called but I tend to think not. A real pump dyno that could properly deal with the flow rates of a pump and then recondition the water and get the air out of it and back into the inlet at simulated hull speeds of 100mph would be big, expensive and very tedious to operate. And we would have heard about it. There are of course some very large and fast water tunnels in the US.  But these are usually academic/government operated and not rigged to do jetboat pumps all day long.

Jack at MPD told me what he was told of the story of how the Berk company developed their pump and they most certainly did NOT have much in the way of test equipment. They were doing what we do now - use the assmometer.

So the most fascinating thing for me about all this is that it would appear that nobody really knows whether a jetboat pump is 50% efficient, 75% efficient or 99% efficient (at converting engine shaft hp into thrust hp).

PS  - I've got $1 that says they are not 99% efficient! 

Coolio........

Remember im a broke ass jet boater

You can put the word "broke" anywhere into "ass jet boater" and it still makes a lot of sense. 

I've got the single lever dealio that runs both the throttle and reverser cables. I'm replacing my cables and thought it would be "fun" to check out the lever's guts. My boat is 74 vintage and I've owned it since 96. The entire time I've owned it I just accepted that this lever was hard to use. As I was removing the old reverser cable I noticed that the lever was still real stiff. Then I unhooked the throttle and no difference - still stiff. 

I found two "interesting" things inside my control. First, the 1974 grease had turned into petrified wood or something. Wherever it was just laying around inside the housing it was still soft and slippery. But on all the contact surfaces it was dark gray (metal oxidation?) and stiff as kicked resin. Second, the spring and detent ball on the throttle shaft were way, way, way too stiff. This was at least 75% of my trouble with the stiff control. I could not believe that Morse had it setup this way. I ended up cutting the spring down 1/4" more in length and only then would it function like I think it was supposed to - making a nice behaving detent and still creating some friction to hold throttle position steady.

Cheesh what were they thinking? 

Anybody ever tried using one of these for the clamp/bulkhead/grommet/strain relief/connector (did I get all the names?) where your roost/reverser cables pierce the transom?




I'm just looking to try something different and get a unique look to my boat ass.

we use a wet dry vac (necked down )

Suckin or blowin?  ... and on what part of the water lines?

Not quite, now i get to fix the Eliminator....

The cracks in the pumps intake...

Just curious 2sav, where on the intake are the cracks? Are they big enough for photos? I'm only asking because I like learning about the weak points. Thanks man.

Now I need the ultimate - one of those furry cow babes blowin a cow pie out their awrse. Then I will have truly seen it all on this site and I can get back to workin on my boat!!!

 

No, dude you are NOT NUTS. GT you don't have enough hulls. You NEED MORE HULLS!!!! (Hey - I like goofin around with some of these extra format buttons.)

Absolutely you MUST BUY THAT FUGGIN BOAT!!! (Hey is that sal.... sallll.... salt water in the background???)   

How can you tell if the under floor is wet ?? and how do you stop it if thats the issue?? 

One day many, many years ago I was puttering around on my boat in the driveway and looked closely at the floor (I have a false floor over the top of the stringers). I noticed what seemed like white spidery mold under the resin and cloth. So I took either a spade wood drill bit or a small hole saw and made a small "core sample" of the floor. Soppin wet with little critters crawlin around (boat aliens I guess). 

I probably should have yanked anything I could off the boat and hauled the hull to the dump. But instead I decided to "redo" everything. When I cut out the stringers they weighed about 100lbs each (full of water) and the flotation foam was another 200lbs of water. Tearin out was fast and easy. Putting it back together just took another 11 years....  

Most likely your slow speed is something other than evil water in the hull. GT's got a good list of the likely suspects for you. He's even got a great story about some ski rope instead of a dead cat in the pump...