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Messages - obnoxious001

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251
Were you able to get price and availability on the plain version of these valve covers?

Yes,, when I told a couple of others who sent me PM's I think they had heart attacks. 

Hopefully Pro Comp cleaned theirs up since I saw samples (at their warehouse) that looked like they had been cut out with an axe, completely unfinished edges even though they were polished.

252
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: junked my 455....
« on: March 14, 2011, 06:32:42 PM »
That was my first thought, gas was from about 5 months ago, less than a 1/4 tank in each tank, treated the fuel before i parked it for the winter and filled it with fresh gas before i hit the lake Sunday.  all the other pistons and valves look fine, no signs of detonation...

Don't know what kind of exhausts you have, but another possibility would be previous exposure to water and rapidly changing temperatures.  Was it a "stock" automotive type valve?

253
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: junked my 455....
« on: March 14, 2011, 01:22:26 AM »
I will toss out my idea, since I have seen it happen to guys before.  How old was the gas in the boat?

Yes it's possible the valve was tired, but if you go out with old gasoline and run hard with old gas (maybe it sat 4-5 months?), then you probably had some detonation and heat going on.   

254
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Ignition
« on: March 12, 2011, 02:56:56 PM »
I still need to get my ignition and was considering this http://www.kmjent.com/cart/product.php?productid=352&cat=7137406&page=2 verses a MSD mainly because of price. Any opinions on this would be helpful !
Thanks Dave.

That one is a Pro Comp knock off of an MSD. 

We tried a couple of brand new Pro Comp HEI ignitions (also may be what KMJ is selling, I have not checked).  One of the units was DOA, even though it was picked up directly at the Pro Comp warehouse, and the other only had the roll pin part way through the distributor gear because the holes were out of alignment.  In trying to pick up a substitute HEI, I called Herbert and they stated that 50% of the Pro Comp HEI ignitions were bad at the time of sale.  For that reason, I will no longer try to use their ignition, even though we had previous success with one in the dirt track car.

255
Engines / Engine Parts For Sale / Re: gen 4 pro stock blks
« on: March 12, 2011, 11:46:57 AM »
I have two in the  OEM  crate gen 4 pro stock blocks, what is the market for them If I sell them.

What's a "pro stock block",,, bowtie?  What's the part number or casting number?

256
Engines / Engine Parts For Sale / Re: Gen 6 427 cu in shortblock
« on: March 11, 2011, 09:21:26 PM »
peanut port to oval port??? :screwy:
I thought it went from rectangle port manifold to oval port heads :-\
peanut port doesn't flow enough for a jet boat!
Go oval or rectangular or go home  :thumbup:

Daniel
Mash on it

Lots of guys tried this as a low buck trick, I have not put an engine together with a set of heads like that, but think they would probably be fine for a 5000 rpm 427 inch jet boat engine.


257
Engines / Engine Parts For Sale / Gen 6 427 cu in shortblock
« on: March 11, 2011, 05:58:53 PM »
I have a super low hours(about 20) Gen 6 454 HO block, standard bore, with fuel pump boss.  I will also supply a nice Gen 6 427 crankshaft, and a set of used GM rods with forged TRW pistons (std bore), small dome, should be close to 10-1 compression with open chamber heads.  $1000 for all of it.  Note, the assembly is not balanced. 

Also, for someone looking to build a decent engine on a beer budget, I have a set of Gen 5/6 peanut port ovals that have been match ported to a larger oval port gasket, freshly rebuilt and not run, $300.

258
Engines / Engine Parts For Sale / New BME Forged 540 BBC pistons
« on: March 10, 2011, 07:09:50 PM »
I have a new set of 10 (2 spares) BME forged solid dome pistons for BBC, 4.500" bore size, 1.520 CH, unknown dome volume.  They would work with a 6.135" rod in a standard deck block, or a 6.535" rod in a tall deck block, and the dome can safely be machined to lower compression.  $400 for the set


259
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: 496 BLOWER MOTOR
« on: March 08, 2011, 09:59:12 AM »


P.S comp ratio was figured as 4.25 bore 4.25 stroke 4.500/.040 head gasket -.016 deck -2cc valve relief ;)

Most single valve relief pistons that I have used are -3cc.

Problem is, you (and probably he) do not know deck height or which gasket was used, or even the combustion chamber size.  Figuring at zero deck with a 118cc chamber and a smaller bore gasket, it could be 8.74 to one.

My point was, it can be made to run fairly decent if he isn't needing to extract every last horsepower from it.  The GN engine that I re-cammed was perhaps 8-1 compression.

260
Nothing particularly wrong with .002" if everything is round, but even the high performance books from Chevrolet from way back have show BBC "performance" rod bearing clearance at .0025"-.003", and I think they stated "maximum preferred".

Almost 20 years ago when I was building engines for GT Performance, there was a period when the Mellings oil pumps all of a sudden needed the springs to be shimmed.  At first we experimented with tightening bearing clearances some, but apparently the pink springs were different than they had been, and we were having to add a .060" shim.  Then at some point they made corrections and adding the shim would yield too much pressure.

My point is, the engines worked fine with the tighter clearances, but once the oil pump situation was discovered we went back to the old accepted standards.

261
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Water Lines on intake
« on: March 08, 2011, 09:38:54 AM »
I am swapping a Weiand stealth intake in for my cobra jet manifold . My question is the Thermostat cover now houses the temp sending unit and some one tapped the front of the manifold with fittings for the water hoses . I would like to change the thermostat cover to empty the block ,but where do I put the coolant temp sensor ????? Thanks

Seems like the easy answer is where one of the current water lines is if you are moving them?

262
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: 496 BLOWER MOTOR
« on: March 07, 2011, 08:24:40 PM »
JUST GOT A MOTOR SHOULD HAVE DONE MORE RESEARCH BEFORE I BOUGHT IT.THE MOTOR IS BBC 496 8.9 TO 1.SET UP FOR BLOWER 871.I DONT HAVE A BLOWER,BUT HAD A FRIEND MECHANIC TELL ME IM F?$#ED THE MOTOR WONT RUN WITHOUT THE BLOWER COMPRESSIONS TO LOW.SO MY QUESTION IS WHATS A QUICK FIX????I HAVE THE LONG BLOCK NO INTAKE.WANTED TO RUN CARB ON A TUNNEL RAM. HOW CAN I FIX THE COMPRESSION ISSUE..??? :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:

8.9-1 compression will run fine.  If you are worried about it, and don't have a camshaft yet, let me get one ground for you that will up the cylinder pressure.  I have done it before with a GN race engine that the guy wanted to run without the blower,, ran 6000 rpm in a 21' Rayson craft.  You are perahaps only 1/2 a compression point what I would normally build a pump gas NA engine with iron heads for a jet boat, so don't be concerned.

263

It is not in caps, but I figured caps were warranted. I guess I just always stopped reading after I passed turbos and blowers. My bad! :'(

So at least you know I was not lying about it.  Sometimes instructions are a good thing. 

264
Pistons and rings often recommend looser gaps for turbo,nitrous, and blowers. I have yet to see a separate suggestion for boating applications.



JE/SRP does have a statement about additional clearance for marine purposes.

Since marine engine blocks typically run much cooler than an automotive engine, the blocks expand less.  On a typical recreational marine NA engine build I allow .0015" additional piston to wall clearance.   

The rings are a "minimum" recommended gap.  I usually use the spec for circle track gasoline engines since the marine engines are run much harder on average than a street engine.

Your bearing clearances are within the target I would shoot for on BBC, and I can't comment on your piston to wall without the mfr spec.  Rings are close,, I might have gone .0024" on the top ring on an NA 4.310" bore, but don't think you will see a difference.  Many builders are opening up the 2nd ring gap citing that the extra pressure on the top ring makes it seal better, but if someone asks me, I say stick to what is recommended in the package of rings you are using.

265
Clearances will vary some depending on application, forced induction perhaps a bit more piston to wall clearance and ring gap due to additional heat.  Drag race engines may be set with the bearing clearances a bit looser than endurance applications, or recreational usage.

Piston to wall will vary by piston type and alloy.  I always consult the manufacturer if their paperwork does not give a clear specification.  Same with rings,, depending on whose you buy, there are various different suggested ring gaps.

266
WTB / Re: through the transom headers
« on: March 05, 2011, 07:40:54 PM »
I have a set of Bassetts here (Glendora)with the water lines, $400

267
I need more space, so need to sell some of my personal stash of blocks. 

If interested, PM for my phone number or more information.

Std bore Gen 6 std deck with fuel pump boss, ultra low hours, will run at std.  I also have a Gen 6 427 crank, along with std bore forged pistons and and rods to put together a pump gas 427 engine.

Gen 5 block, cleaned and fresh bore to 4.280" (.030 over)

Gen 5/6 Milodon super comp pan, mint condition

Several MK IV and Gen 6 4" stroke cranks

Several MK IV 4 bolt std deck 454 blocks

2 bolt 454 block freshly bored and honed to .040" over (4.290")

Several SBC blocks,, 4 bolt 350's,, 400, and a couple of 305's

352 Ford block and crank (1964 std bore block)

351 C 2 bolt Ford block and crank

New 4.250" BBC Chinese forged crank, unknown brand, for external balance.  Good for low budget 496 build,, use your existing 454 balancer and flywheel/flexplate. 

New set of (10) forged BME 4.500" pistons for 540, solid dome, easy to adjust to desired compression ratio.

Misc BBC cylinder heads,, singles and pairs.

268
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Mark IV, Gen V, Gen VI
« on: March 01, 2011, 11:44:20 AM »
Thanks for the correction. Does this mean that all Gen VI's had fuel pump bosses, or that Gen VI's may or may not have them?  If it's the latter, then it only furthers the convoluted mess around all the different BBC blocks.  :P

LO

 I have worked with some with, but most that I have seen do not.  I think any that came installed in trucks do not have them (due to EFI). 

269
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: will a 2 bolt survive
« on: February 28, 2011, 11:33:49 PM »
I rebuilt a blown 496 for a guy who bought a used blower engine from across the country and found it had multiple issues.  It was a 2 bolt block that exhibited signs of "cap walk".  I don't recall how much boost he claimed it had been running, I think around 8-10 lbs or so, so maybe 800 HP or so as a wild guess.

I built a pump gas 496 NA engine (maybe around 600 HP ?) for another guy using a 2 bolt block only because he was on a real tight budget, and we could not quickly find a good deal on a 4 bolt core at the time.  Had a chance to inspect the main bearings on it after a number of outings and caps looked pretty good.

270
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Oil pan info
« on: February 27, 2011, 04:01:52 PM »
Hows 7 3/4 inches to the top sound? Thats from the deepest part where it looks like the pickup would sit.

OK, a "stock" pickup should work if it will fit in the pan, a photo would help determine that.  Whatever pickup you do buy, you will want to make sure it sits close enough to the bottom of the pan with it's all bolted up.  3/8" is generally considered to be the correct distance to allow adequate oil flow while still being close enough to the bottom to lessen the chances of sucking air as the oil moves around.

271
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Holley carb numbers
« on: February 27, 2011, 03:58:15 PM »
I think 1 11/16" bores (both primary and secondary, correct) indicate between 650 and 800 CFM.  The 4781 Holley 850 has 1 3/4" throttle bores.   I ckecked an older book that I have, but Holley does have all their carb specs online as well.

272
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Holley carb numbers
« on: February 26, 2011, 06:52:09 PM »
What size are the venturi?

273
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Holley carb numbers
« on: February 26, 2011, 03:00:24 PM »
So I bought a tunnel ram last season with a motor that I later found out was trash.. Im trying to figure out if I can use the t/r with my new setup but dont know the CFMs on the Holleys and cant seem to find a site with numbers. He said they were 2 850s but that seems pretty excessive for a 468 that was pretty mellow. Not to mention the guy was one hell of a liar I later found out.  Problem is... the list number was cut off. Is there any other way to tell what they are? I heard by measureing the base plate but I cant find what measurements mean what carb.. Thanks!

The Holley website has tech information, including venturi bore sizes, although there is some overlap between various CFM and venturi sizes. 

You could run 850's on a 468, but tuning and therefore fuel economy may suffer.  What engine are you putting it on?

274
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Mark IV, Gen V, Gen VI
« on: February 26, 2011, 12:24:53 PM »
Maybe I am wrong, I am pretty sure I have a standard deck Gen 6 with fuel pump boss stashed in my garage, but the description of the GM Gen 6 454 HO crate engine seems to confirm what I was saying: http://sdparts.com/details/gm-performance-parts/12568774


275
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Mark IV, Gen V, Gen VI
« on: February 26, 2011, 02:56:15 AM »
what do you guys think of  a complete GEN 5 454 HO minus the mani with about 15k miles for 800 bones?
have a family member lookin for quick cash due to a divorce  :banghead: and wanting to get rid of his BBC...GOOD DEAL???

This was a new crate engine, or someone rebuilt it?  Which heads are on it?  As previously mentioned, the Gen 5 block limits which cylinder heads will work without water leaks, and you probably have to run an electric fuel pump.  If it has tiny peanut port heads, and cast pistons, don't know that it's worth very much as a marine engine, or rebuildable core. 


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