Good morning. 
Waiting on the wide to apply war paint before we go eat. 

-beerjet-

That's pretty funny, hope she doesn't see your post.  Keep the pics coming!

Well testing went bad. I put the gate valve on before I left opened it about 3/4 and ran the boat for 4 minutes. Before I knew it the temp was at 190 and climbing. Shut it off and let it sit for about ten minutes. Started it back up with the gate valve all the way open and it went down to 140 with the motor at 2k rpms. Less then 30 seconds it's right back up to 190 and climbing 😡. There's gotta be a clogged line right ? Any help would be great guys


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I would suggest that before you start tearing your motor down you verify that the water is actually getting that hot.  I had a brand new sending unit from Autometer that was bad out of the box do this to me last your when we were all at Avi.   Motor went from stone cold to 200* in under 2 minutes.   As soon as the gauge started to move, it would just keep going.  I had an IR  temp gun with me and when I started checking the motor I couldn't find any spot on the motor that was even at 130* yet.  I swapped the sender with one from a buddies boat and problem solved, motor was running 130*. 
You said you were running on the trailer to begin with.  Did you by chance feel the water exiting the motor?  Did if feel hot and was it steaming?  Do you have a good flow of water coming out the back?  I find it hard to believe your motor can put that much heat in the water if it's flowing at a normal flow.   If your actually getting hot, I would think the water flow out the back would be almost nothing.  It would have to be almost complete blockage to slow the water long enough to get that much heat in it.   I've seen motors in boats that had blown head gaskets  bad enough to cut grooves in the block, and not overheat.  I'd hate to see you get crazy and tear this thing down over something simple like a gauge or a sender.
See if you can borrow or get one of these and do a little testing,

I didn't really price it both way's, but I think cost is about the same regardless.

If you're running headers, you can fill cylinders with water before you get the boat fired up.  Always start the motor then turn on the water.  Turn off the water then kill the motor. Water running in an engine that isn't running is not good.
 The gate valve to control water temp/ pressure debate is as old as the Ford Chevy debate.  My.02 is the gate valve is simply a safety device to stop water from coming in the boat if a hose happens to break like Kay0tyk explained .  Jet boat motors run cold and that should be taken into account when the motor is built and the tolerances are set..
 Oil temp is much more critical.  I'm always afraid if you close down the valve to create heat you may be over restricting the volume and creating steam pockets and hot spots.  When do you adjust your valve at idle, 1/2 throttle, full throttle?  Each one of these settings is going to create a different temp.
 I think 1 line in and 2 or 3 lines out is the simplest way, and understand that 130*-150* in a boat with an open cooling system is normal.  I personally regulate my water pressure by having 2 dump lines that are -10 plus my headers.  If you give your cooling system multiple exits, it can't over pressure, and you can still keep the water volume up. It's more important to warm the oil before hammering it than water temp.
 But That's just me.

Playing stitch master from where my pup chewed up the seat when it was raining. My interior guy can't do it til the 14 so **** it I'm running the polished turd with stitches lol



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Looks like a skin graph after a bad accident!!  Maybe there's a new name in there for your boat Justin, "Wounded Warrior" or "Chew Toy" maybe
 K-9's..... or not.

Cleaning old glue is hands down the worst job IMO.  Makes you want to just re- carpet and move on.  Nice work!

New scoop! On the way I keep trying to just buy what i NEED for the boat but this was a awsome deal just need tray n mount and see what Sam would want to paint it i got a beautiful idea for paint scheme thats gonna hurt ur guys scoops feelings. Shes gonnalook so fast and do like 35mph lol

Don't worry about 35mph, that's plenty fast enough to whip up on a  guy's like Trou8l3d around here.  And if you get Sam to put a paint job on that, it will definitely be a smack down just floating.

What I hate is when you feel you've done everything right, double checked your shit and some part fails, causing you the famous, "Break Off Another Thousand".  Makes me want to master my technique in channel surfing.

My boat's named "Sancha".  She earned her name by spending all my money.  She's only good for turning heads, and hot and fast rides!!  (Well, pretty fast rides, I'm still working on her.)

 I also bought one off Amazon for a friends boat for less than 100 bucks.  Nice cover, and cheap protection for your boat. The boat was an 18' Soutwind, fits pretty good.
http://www.amazon.com/VORTEX-HEAVY-VHULL-RUNABOUT-AVAILABLE/dp/B00414C9ZK/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1396452230&sr=1-2&keywords=vortex+boat+cove

Hey Greg hows it going? Ya ive been taking notes and watchin every move he does on it.. Jeff is a awesome guy and really cool to shoot the shit with. Hes obviously very smart so its fun to pick his brain with different ideas. According to Jeff there is no such thing as a "out of the box" bottom ready to do 130 + so although its not a lot of major work hes doing its more fine detail. He gave me the option since I know bodywork to finish the bottom when he has the overall shape 80% done. So soon as he gives me the green light ill be able to do final detail work, then prime and paint the bottom. Jeffs spent 3 days so far on the bottom and will be finished with his part tomorrow. =)

130!!! You go BOY!   I'm still trying to drag mine past the century mark, I was just getting past 90mph last summer.  Who ever set my boat up before had no clue, and I don't know much more, lol.  My shoe was almost 1/2" above keel, and I couldn't keep the pump loaded above 3800- 4000 rpm.  I got a new shoe and some direction from Chris @ B1 and was out at Elsinore testing when I broke the motor so I didn't get any real data, but it felt like it popped up on top a lot more.  We'll see what she does now with her new dancing shoe on and a new set of AFR's on the motor!!  Looking forward to hooking up in Blythe now that we're neighbors.  Keep up the awesome work and of course the pics.   

Boat looks good bro. I should have grabbed it in your moment of weakness.   Hope it all turned out well. 

IMS, you can buy a rem for scrap cost.  I think it's like 2.00 a pound.  The one on Main st/ Riverside ave in Riverside has racks of rems you can choose a piece from.  I buy rems there all the time for my projects, it's a bunch cheaper than ordering to size.  Probably get what you need for 10.00 bucks