Very similar to a Berkeley more or less the early 12JA, some of the parts are inerchangable I believe the shafts are the same (2" longer version), the bowl will bolt up, Impellers also...not sure on wear ring.  Uses clipper seal instead of packings.  4 bolts need to be redrilled to use a Berkeley on the Bayjet intake (theres also some history between Bay Jet and Roy Miersch towards the end, But I don't remember the specifics, perhaps my Dad will remember).  The nozzle adapter is much worse than even the early Dominators, Same bolt pattern.  The bowls have extremely flat inlet vains, and water lubed glacier bearings.

I would think that if one was going to trace these plates, some changes would be in order. I would think that the sharp corners on the front plate would create stress risers. Wouldn't it be better to radius the corners? Also, I would think that the plate would benefit from a much larger surface area similar to that of the lightning plate. Just seems like a small plate for these torquey motors. my.o2

Definetly add a little beef into it, good Idea on the corners.  I think the rear one could use a little more above the rail mounts too, looks like it was cut down. 

I suppose in the end the front mount only has to be as stong as it 5/16" bolts and spacers holding it on .  My favorite BBF front mounts are the ones that include the water inlet plate, might have to make one one of these days.

thats a good idea josh (the freezer bag), never thought of it but will certainly use it from now on.  thank you

Glad to help.  I just changed the oil in my Jeep today, and dropped the fillter off that way.  I was thinking to myself, why I had never done that on a car before. 

yeah, like get an adult sized one of these.... 



you know you will never live that down 

Thats just wrong!




Not the adault size one

You can get some black tint , we've used Evercoat "coloring agent" it works pretty decent, out local hardware store carries it.

Josh are you going to install nuts on those bolts? and if not won't they vibrate loose? I've heard that even with red loctite they have a knack of working loose.

Thats the plan, I had just finished mocking it up when i took the pic, getting tired of running over to the bolt bin.  Thanks for the QC

We're gonna go out there and get some psi readings before I make any crazy hardware changes. But  Just a taste of whats to come.  I've been dreeming up a shoe, the intake opening is about 3/4 to an 1" up from the keel, But to bring it down to the keel seems a bit dramatic seeing as its almost 11" vs the berk almost 8". So I'm still pondering that. I have half a dosen designs in mind, so I'll probabbly make a few different ones.

The shoe addition will most likely accompany a full on narrowed "rideplate" to relpace the dinkky cav plate setup it currently has.

We''ll also know better what it needs or doesn't need when we drive it, I swiss cheeses the suction with psi taps so we can get some good solid info.

One of the big concerns or percieved short commings outsiders would choose to pick on, was lack of hardware for tuning for Panthers.  Well heres some food for thought, berkeley didn't either in 1965.  No loadered, shoes, rideplates, droops, snoots, diverters existed till someone saw a need and a market for them. 

You do that to me on purpose dont you Josh? It seems to me to be the perfect solution to what is percieved to some as a potential weak spot.  Great minds think alike huh........

Give you mom a squeeze and your pops a kick in the butt for me........

I'll make you a special one,  I'll call it the Jrork Model.  You'll just have to do some measuring for me.

That does it! Tommy, you've gone too far this time and I'm calling my attorney.  Here I've been drawing up a sketch of a stringer mount to support the Panther and what do I find in the above picture but a exact copy of what I was thinking.  Clearly this has got to be a violation of sumthin.   

Looking really good Tommy.  Keep a pattern of that thing and you can make me one too. I was going to use a couple pillow blocks to mount it to the stringer rails I'm going to be putting in.

Good luck with your project and keep the pics coming....

Pattern? what is this pattern you speek of?  My dad gets mad at me all the time cause I don't pattern anything, all the rough measurments are in my head, I never want any two things to look exactly the same (the exception being pairs and multiples in one application).  I'll tell ya another great thing about the brace is it really squeezes the pod up against the housing making a very nice seal.  Perhaps my dad will post up the picture, when he gets back, of me jumping up and down on the end of the bowl

My BBF has an Edlebrock and until it craps out, I'm going to leave it on there.  It doesn't have the "J" tubes either so I just hope it never over fills the bowls.

You don't have to worry the Edelbrocks don't have J tubes.  Just grab the part number off of the base of the front and type it into a web search it will tell you what it is.  A lot of the shelf edelbrocks for automotive applications are calibrated for small blocks and generally need their "calibration kit" to work a little better.

A Sea Demon is on my Glastron, and until it shows me an problems it will stay their, but I would not have chose it personally. Our wholesale supplier and Summit Racing chose to drop the whole Demon line due to too many problems, porossity and manufacturing defects.  We bought a pair of Demons once that had a porosity problem, just kept flooding over no matter what you did with the needle and seat.

Holleys are great carberators and the HP series are eaven better.  But generally the HP series holley cost more than a Proform, Quick Fuels or AED carb and wont flow as much.  The Engineer at quick fuel Technologies told me that the 950HP holley only really flows about 860cfm compared to their 950Q which really flows 950+. The difference being the 950 holley = 850 baseplate + 750 based body. 950 QFT = 850 Baseplate + 950 Proform Main body.  However the 950 holley does have an awesome Booster signal and throttle responce.  That Info finally solved the mystery of why the 950hp Holley works so awesome on my SBF, compared to the 850 dp which never worked worth a crap on the same engine.

Get some Jasco Paint and Epoxy Remover comes in a galon container at the hardware store, Brush it on set it in the sun and watch the magic begin, and if its cold use a heater or a heat gun.  Good Stuff.

All this fluff and no real input   I'd say about 7"-8"  x 20"-24". We used to have a pretty bitchen set up layin around that used 3 rods one spaced out from the transom adapter to transfer the "adjustment" (for lack of a better word), It was complex but always looked like it would have worked well.

The pump was produced with an A , the last rebuild they tuned a AA down to an AB.Which is what it has currently