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Messages - speedymopars

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276
A little trivia for ya: Ford couldn't call the car the GT-40 because the dumb asses never copywrited the name. I think it was sometime in the late '70's or early 80's that some guy's copy writed the name. They demanded that Ford pay them several million dollars outwrite or some stuped amount like $25 K per car to use the name GT-40.

Just another example as to how stupid the court system is, it was Ford, not two dipstick's that made that name have value. The name rightly belonged to Ford, but they never registered the copywrite.

I don't ever remember seeing it written G/T 40  maybe it is but I don't think so.

The video you posted, I went to the SEMA show in '06 and there were 3  1,000+ hp TT GT's

Sleeper CP

Oh, I'll put my little single carb Ford up against any Chevy posting. ( Carry on)


And a little more - the dodge boys came out with a prototype hot car they called "the boss" . Ford liked it so much, they borrowed it. They all steal names...

277
Random Boat Parts For Sale / Re: Does anybody have a Bimini 4 sale?
« on: May 01, 2008, 07:21:39 AM »
K..Thanx Ryan..I bought one from dsrtrat a couple a weeks ago..so it's all good for me!  ;D

How much did it run? My bimini, with the new seating, is a tad too small.

278
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Uh oh, steering in backwards
« on: April 30, 2008, 10:02:44 PM »
Thanks everyone - I flipped it and all is good. Didn't take that long either.


279
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Uh oh, steering in backwards
« on: April 30, 2008, 08:01:44 AM »
Has anyone used one of these?

http://www.teleflexmarine.com/library/A4pics/usa-rack-1.jpg

The marine shop put new steering in my boat, and now right is left, and left is right.

There is a big warning on the rack itself to not disasemble otherwise failure could result.

In looking at it, they put it in with the rack up, when it should be rack down. I would assume that would be correct for a right hand drive boat (mine is left), and the cable would be correct. It looks like they just flipped it up side down for the left drive, and now things are backwards. If I pull the long rack part off, flip the pinion around so it engages on the bottom, and flip the rack so it mounts, it would correct the steering.

Does anyone know if this system comes dissasembled like it shows in the pic? I'd hate to flip it if it cames assembled, and void a warrentee.




280
The No Wake Zone / Re: Get to work thread !!
« on: April 28, 2008, 10:47:40 PM »
Wi Fi + sprint broadband - I can work on the boat AND surf the web!

Seriously though --- Batteries are in, exhaust reworked. Hose comes in tomorrow.

Here is the list of things to do

Install left side exhaust / log / risers
Install exhaust hose
Prime / time engine
Install plug wires
Fire the biatch.....
Off to water

281
WTB / Re: I need a new marine alternator !
« on: April 27, 2008, 05:10:43 PM »
Accidently sunk the Hallett this winter  :banghead: , and it dont look good . I dont wanna risk it takin a crap on me this summer since it is the family cruiser . So I need a new one .  :-\

-beerjet-

DC Automotive electric in Stanton, they can rebuild yours with all new parts. I had mine standard one done to marine specs, out the door I think it was $55.


D-C Automotive Electric
8541 Central Ave
Stanton, CA 90680
Local: 714-828-7681


282
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Carb Tuning
« on: April 26, 2008, 08:43:48 PM »
Vaccum leak - did you spray carb spray around EVERYTHING to see if it affected it? Carb Spray?  So No, but I did attach a vaccum gauge and it read very close to OK (approx 23) at the high RPM idle.  I also double checked every bolt for torque.


I'm surprised you are pulling that high, but OK.


Did you check or temp plug the PCV? Doesnt have one

What size cam, IE duration @ .050 do you have? 218* for now >:D

OK, that rules out a few things.


Did you set the timing? Messed with it a bit, will try with the timing light tomorrow in the water.

You can seriously mess with the idle if you have the advance set wrong. If you get on it while it is really advanced, you will have major pinging too...



Did you try it with the vac advance unplugged? Yes, It is always disconnected and unplugged

Did you verify the vac advance is plugged into the port above the idle screws? See above

OK

Have you verified the secondaries are fully shutting? No, cant see top of carbs with scoop bolted on.  I will remove it tomorrow at the lake. 

You can do that from the side of the carbs - hit the secondary linkage and see if it closes.


Have you attempted to verify that both of the primary throttle blades are open approximately the same(or use a uni sync to adjust - that is what I do to mke sure the flows are the same).  Again I will eyeball them tomorrow, but I did check idle adjust screw and turn them both as close as possible to the same amount out that it will still idle.

What should I look for/ set at for the float levels after I take the bowls off?  I have never seen the inside of a holley carb...

Your float levels should be set so when the big screw on the side of the bowl is removed, gas is just below or trickling out. You don't need to remove the float bowls to adjust.


Is it idling that high because you set it (it wouldn't run below a certain RPM), or because you started it and it was that way?





283
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Carb Tuning
« on: April 26, 2008, 07:30:53 PM »
OK let's ask some things here.

Vaccum leak - did you spray carb spray around EVERYTHING to see if it affected it?
Did you check or temp plug the PCV?

What size cam, IE duration @ .050 do you have?

Did you set the timing? Did you try it with the vac advance unplugged? Did you verify the vac advance is plugged into the port above the idle screws?

Have you verified the secondaries are fully shutting?

Have you attempted to verify that both of the primary throttle blades are open approximately the same(or use a uni sync to adjust - that is what I do to mke sure the flows are the same)

There are other things it could be too - but check these first.




284
Hey Speedy, What does the back side of that look like and where did you get it?   Greg


2 bolts and a plate, I wish this showed the back side.

http://shopping.rexmar.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=456255&Category_Code=skitowstransombil

285
Is there a reason you can't use a through transom tow? They don't make an engine tow for me, so I used one of these.




286
The No Wake Zone / Re: home coming
« on: April 24, 2008, 09:24:05 PM »
  :mad: YES !

-beerjet-


Thank god no one went to the double dog dare! Crisis averted!  ;D

287
The No Wake Zone / Re: Memorial Day
« on: April 24, 2008, 09:20:09 PM »
while you gys are getting the roughed up on havasu i'll be floatin down the river....

Oh your boat's broken too?

I have an innertube I'll be doing the same if mine doesn't run by then.
 :-)

288
Gelcoat / Paint / Fireberglass Repair / Re: It's coming along...
« on: April 24, 2008, 06:15:59 PM »
Front - the light is a new LED based model - really bright (2 m visability) and you can see it from about a 200 degree view.


289
Gelcoat / Paint / Fireberglass Repair / Re: It's coming along...
« on: April 24, 2008, 06:06:50 PM »
Coming home tomorrow. Now I can work on it at home rather than at the marine shop, though they don't seem to mind. I fixed some other boat's ignition and wiring problems for them, and stayed out of the way...


I may need to level the carbs, although they don't look that tilted.  I love those 4.5 inch tips!

290
WTB / Re: where to mount Mallory Hyfire ignition?
« on: April 24, 2008, 10:20:27 AM »
Naa, ya got to keep it cool. And what's better for keeping cool than cool lake water? Attach it to the underside of the boat!

 >:D

292
WTB / Re: wtb - 4 1/2 inch I.D. exhaust hose for tt exhaust
« on: April 24, 2008, 07:57:53 AM »
We stock the hose,any length, and we weld aluminum.  TIMINATOR  623-877-8553

Damn, I bought some hose at 9:30 (about 20 minutes before you posted this) from go2marine and went to bed. Would have rather bought it from you. Oh well, next time.

293
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: re on the com
« on: April 23, 2008, 08:22:54 PM »
I assume this is from the other thread you started.

Holley doesn't make 500's, except in the 2bbl configuration, and those won't fit your manifold.

I think you meant the holley 1850,which is a vac secondary 600 cfm carb.


294
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Valve Lash
« on: April 23, 2008, 06:26:16 PM »
Did I get it backwards? lol

Nope - what I would call a mild lobe profile would seriously break the chevy. I was just trying to be nice :-)

You should see the grind in my 528 - it pushes the Mopar spec....





295
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Valve Lash
« on: April 23, 2008, 05:44:53 PM »
It's a Chevy, so it probably wants a little tighter. They don't get the pleasure of the Mopar's big ass lifters  ;D

 :-X

296
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: carb jetting
« on: April 23, 2008, 05:40:17 PM »
still having problems carb still not rite. any help out there?


Meaning what? Did you check to see if the PV's are leaking? Pull the carb off of the manifold, set it back down on top of the carb studs so there is a gap. Take your coil wire and put it in the garage. crank the engine over so the carb is getting gas (if you have an electric pump, just turn it on instead) . Look under the carb - any gas dripping? There shouldn't be.  Figure out where it is coming from and at least one of your problems will be solved.

297
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: ford scj roller cam specs
« on: April 23, 2008, 01:17:00 PM »
hi guys love the site i think ill stay lol im bulding a 460 scj with ar scj alum heads stainles valves stuk with stok compression on the pistons its getting an isky duek intake (not a high rise) i need some roler cam sugestions for it if you need valve sises i can mesure them i basicly want a realy cool sounding idle and good crusin hp for pulling skiers id like to go with duel 800 hollys and jet them down but im not a carb guy i just heard it was a good idea for the airflow thanks for any imput ;D

Dual 800's? Too much. Isky does make a dual carb dual plane, so if that is what you want to run, you need to get a couple of 390's, 450's (mech) , or the 600 vac secondary models. If you are running a single carb on a dual plane, then anywhere from 650-900 is fine.


Compression works with the cam, if you are running stock compression, which I will assume is around 9:1 then you need to keep the duration @ .050 to 225-235. Higher the lift in that duration range, the more power it will make. The more duration, the more compression you need.






298
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Valve Lash
« on: April 23, 2008, 06:32:47 AM »
The newer grinds are all tight lash, .018-.022, the older ones are spec'ed at .028 -.035.

With the improvement in valvespring technology, they can grind the ramps steeper, have tighter lash, and let the valvetrain survive.

299
WTB / Re: wtb - 4 1/2 inch I.D. exhaust hose for tt exhaust
« on: April 22, 2008, 11:48:01 PM »
honestly, 2-3 feet is too much.....get yourself some 4 1/2" aluminum tube to cover the distance between the exhaust tips and the collector....use as little rubber hose as possible.......ask marcsrollin why.

Actually I figured a foot a side, plus a little extra on the throw away (x2 = 2-3 feet) . I'll take some real measurments tomorrow.... Is that length ok?

Also, anyone good at welding aluminum?

300
The No Wake Zone / Re: do you think this will work (running on water)
« on: April 22, 2008, 11:36:09 PM »
The only thing that makes sense if this is real - hydrogen fuel cell conversion. Sure you'll get 61 mpg from your corolla, where water is the primary fuel source - but you'll have a $100K into it. 100K will buy a lot of gas, even at $10/gallon....

now what to do with all the lead acid batteries.....


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