bingo.  a small dab of high temp RTV/silicone around the water passages.  lube/oil on the head bolt threads and thread sealer on the bolts that go into the water passages. 

put in head bolts torqued to 70 ft-lbs in three steps of 40, 55, and 70 ft-lbs in the pattern below (so do 1-16 at 40, then 1-16 at 55, then 1-16 at 70):

the squares are little metal restrictor inserts.  your intake has the crossover tube in it.  if you use a gasket with it blocked off, eventually the water will penetrate it.  the crossover tube is to warm the intake air when cold to help with keeping a constant air intake temp for smog and smooth idle when cold in a car, and also to cool the intake from the hot oil splashing on the intake manifold from the cam whirling around.  honestly with the oval port heads and intake you're not exactly going to notice the difference with it open or not.  MOST aftermarket intake manifolds are gonna have it blocked off.

Fel-Pro MS 90240

dont mind my dangling wires in my engine bay, im running some extra for LED lights... 

How close are you to the 133 and 405?

im in huntington beach.  little north of the 133/405.

Do you still have this.

Yup!

Interesting decor...




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haha yeah the coworker went home to jersey, so we figured we'd make her cubicle just like home...

swapped rims on the ol navi the other day... wife now calls it "the ghetto mobile..." 

what motor? when i assemble heads i put thread lube onto the bolts and i use permatex sealant on the ones that go into water passages.  thread lube helps with getting a proper torque rating on the bolts.  before all of that ill also run a thread chaser down just to clean up the threads and remove any old lube/gunk.

i put a SMALL dab of silicone around the water passages for my intake manifold gasket.  they usually dont require it if you're using new parts, but older stuff has some pitting usually around the passages and its just a little bit of security against leaks.

any car parts store will have relays.  make sure you use a high enough gauge wire for the lead to the battery PLUS a fuse. 

you're wanting to buy a used motor thats realistically in unknown condition... a mystery.  it could break tomorrow.  tear down the motor you have, you can do it yourself and figure out where you're at.  getting a block magged to check for cracks isnt very costly and then and ONLY then can you make an educated decision rather than just throwing money into another problem...

id get rid of that mickey mouse shit and install a regular block off plate.

i think it comes down to what are you trying to accomplish with the DVD's?  You either want to generate revenue for the site to cover costs or venture into other areas... or reinvest into making that next video better, quad copters, better equipment, etc... OR you should use the films to promote the site and drive more traffic to the site for more paid advertising and a larger user base.

Realistically how many DVD's are you selling?  Is it even worth the overhead of creating the DVD's, jackets, etc?  I personally dont even have a DVD player anymore, I stream.  Perhaps toss em into itunes and youtube movies for digital sales?

My opinion would be to create short 3-5 min teaser videos of each event, etc... release them FREQUENTLY.  Get tons of views, promote it using your facebook SCJB account, get people in the forum talking about it, excited for more meets, etc.  Then release a year end video for purchase with full event coverage, maybe some product advertising and review, etc.  Showcase a particular build, put a gopro on someone racing to cover the sport and promote the racing aspect of the site...  i know you recently posted that your boat was down and out, maybe this is a good way to keep your interest in the sport and help promote it?

I personally really enjoy your videos, I think you have some awesome creativity and its cool to see how far you've progressed from a simple video, to a gopro on a stick, to quad coptering, etc. Not to mention your ability to edit them all together as well.