more done today this week.

I am running an MSD 6a, and was wondering how critical it is to have a limiter on there. Of course it is always nice to have, but how often is it needed?

Here is the senario -
21 foot day cruiser - not as easy to pull jet out of water like a lighter boat
but hand throttle only
with an engine that is mechanically good to 7500+


I am more worried about the impellor and the shock of coming out of the water having the engine rev to 6500+ (or whatever) and then hitting it again with water (hand throttle, so I may not get out of it if it was unexpected). If I got a limiter, I could match it to the normal max RPM, so there woudn't be the shock and load, but maybe it doesn't matter. If the aluminum impellor will hold up, a limiter would probably be a waste of money.

Do the majority of modified jets use a limiter, and if so, how often do you hit it?

True, but it's only keeping water, dirt, etc. out of the vacuum advance, not the distributor. Right?

Correct. It will also make sure the vac advance plate doesn't move, the cap will seal the diaphram and lock it down so to speak. It shouldn't want to move, but it makes sure this way. It also makes it look like you WANT to run it that way, and didn't forget to hook something up :-)

I love all lit up - not only was it the obviously the baddest ass / fastest boat there, it was Mopar powered :-)

X 2

There's no point in putting a cap on it, it has nothing to leak.

You aren't keeping vaccum in, you are keeping the water, rust, and dirt out.

The vac advance is an additional advance to the mechanical one - in other words, the disti has a standard mechanical advance, and the vaccum pod pulls an additional plate to give you more advance in light load situations.

I know on a mopar disti, the pod can just be pulled without doing anything else (the arm just pulls the stop plate more), you probably will have to look at yours to see if that is true on a ford.

Is there a reason for you to pull it?

If you say that it advances too much at idle - you have it plugged into the wrong port on the carb - it should be on the timed vaccum port which should have 0 inches at vaccum at idle and really anything below about 1500-1800 rpm.  On a holley this is the port on the primary side metering plate, right hand side, about an inch from the air cleaner. Not all Holley carbs have this port drilled, but they all have it cast.

It is safe to disconnect it and cap the vac port on the carb and disti (carb for vac leaks, disti to keep the water out). This will basically make it a mechanical advance disti.

I have found the vac advance disti's usually are worth more money than the std mechanical ones - you might pocket some cash if you sell yours and get a mechanical rathern than modify. Just a thought.

Yep, wife and I, sans kids will be in Havabrew partying - My dad is dropping the kids off on Tuesday where we will then live out the rest of the week in a much more sedate lifestyle :-)

429 - I have a MOPAR so it's a lot cheaper and easier than that! I spent 9 bucks on a moroso pushbutton switch, and wired it in today using a single 14 gauge wire .

I almost had it ready for tomorrow's show at Irvine, but it was not to be. It will probably be done next week.  Did lots of wiring, drilled and tapped the transom adapter for the hyd lines, set up the MSD harness, mounted the starter relay... the lights are mostly in, and the interior is modified. I actually have power to the interior / dash / external lights now.

The straight through water injectors are removed, the new to me nickson snails I cut off to make big all the way through, and the 4 inch tips are ready to be installed in the transom ....

RUN IT! you *have* to take me for a ride - just don't show my wife or I'll be buying a new boat again!


Do any upgrades or changes next december!

I have to keep saying to myself - not a good family boat ... not a good family boat.... repeat 100X :-)

OK, I'll bite - where is Martinez....

the holley 750 came off my cousins chevelle with a 396 so it was jetted for that. the 455 is completely stock manifold and everything. im goin to double check to see what size jets are in it now so i can let u guyz know later. i took the boat out sat. n it ran rich n wouldnt start unless i gave it full throttle and would not idle. the carb had a rebuild done to it before i put in my boat so i think its a good carb.

That sounds like a blown power valve. (or they mis aligned the gasket so it leaks - it's easy to do)

Put a set of 65 power valves in it, if it is a 3310 carb (vac secondaries) start off with 71 or 72 primary jets, and if you are lucky and can change the secondaries, 76 or 77. Depending on your impellor, either a purple or plain secondary spring.

If it is a 4779 (DP) use 74-75 primaries instead.

I always found that on a properly tuned single carb app, the idle screws are best about a turn to 1.5 turns out.