326
Random Boat Parts For Sale / Re: Red/white interior for day cruiser - $100
« on: September 09, 2014, 09:36:08 AM »
Rear hatch pics
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327
Random Boat Parts For Sale / Complete Jacuzzi WJ Jet Drive Pump - $150
« on: September 08, 2014, 07:58:35 PM »
I'm selling a complete Jacuzzi WJ jet pump. Pump was cut out of a boat I parted out due to severe transom rot.
Jet is in good condition, spins free and smooth. Impeller looks good with no damage.
Pump will come with intake housing, transom housing etc. Exactly as shown.
I'm asking $150 for the entire unit.
I am located in ca, 91342.
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Jet is in good condition, spins free and smooth. Impeller looks good with no damage.
Pump will come with intake housing, transom housing etc. Exactly as shown.
I'm asking $150 for the entire unit.
I am located in ca, 91342.
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328
Random Boat Parts For Sale / Re: Red/white interior for day cruiser - $100
« on: September 08, 2014, 06:46:31 PM »replied
Jarvis, text/call me... I'll send you additional pics
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329
Random Boat Parts For Sale / Re: Red/white interior for day cruiser - $100
« on: September 08, 2014, 05:26:01 PM »very interested. you said theyre out of a day cruiser? pics of engine cover and side panels?
$100??
or typo?
how bad is the wood?
PM sent
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330
Random Boat Parts For Sale / Re: Red/white interior for day cruiser - $100
« on: September 08, 2014, 02:01:40 PM »still have seats...engine box?
Yes
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331
Random Boat Parts For Sale / Re: Red/white interior for day cruiser - $100
« on: September 08, 2014, 01:45:01 PM »How wide is the bench
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There is no bench seat
Each seat is about 20" at the back and 27" at the front
Individual bucket seats are 22" by 23" tall
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332
Random Boat Parts For Sale / Red/white interior for day cruiser - $100
« on: September 08, 2014, 10:42:54 AM »
Parting out a boat with this interior. It's in fair shape, not perfect by any means.
Front two bucket seats separate and can be used by themselves.
Comes with an engine cover, side covers and the front rear seats. These are exactly the way they came out of the boat, I have not wiped them down.
If you can use them, come get them outa my shop...
I am in ca, 91342
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Front two bucket seats separate and can be used by themselves.
Comes with an engine cover, side covers and the front rear seats. These are exactly the way they came out of the boat, I have not wiped them down.
If you can use them, come get them outa my shop...
I am in ca, 91342
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333
The No Wake Zone / Re: Is this bad?
« on: August 24, 2014, 07:08:54 PM »
Bet that came out of a ford!
Just as bad as this...
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Just as bad as this...
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334
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: 455 break down from over heating question
« on: August 21, 2014, 07:03:36 AM »Like my old intake manifold and valve covers back since I never said keep them. I'll have more time once I'm off to go over everything.
I wasn’t planning on responding, but need to address your desire for “valve covers and intake manifold” back.
I have ABSOLUTELY NO DESIRE to play ping pong with you or any of your cheerleaders.
You know damn well that the agreement was your valve covers/ intake manifold were to be used essentially as a core which was factored into the price (trade plus money on top) considering your parts were less then desirable for a jet boat. All of a sudden you are asking for them back when engine was completed at the end of May. Almost three months have gone by and this is the first I am hearing about this. Way to be petty and downright dishonest...
Additionally, since I am already writing I’ll address your “turn key” comment.
I have a video of your engine running, and running well. If you look at my previous post, I believe that is a picture of you and your boat on the water when you turned the key and it started and got you all around the lake. Not to mention others that were on the lake and saw you out all day...
Turn Key does not indicate that since your engine is good that you can neglect everything else around it. There are other things that factor into how well an engine runs/performs and most importantly - longevity. If your gauges are not working, and your engine overheats in turn causing you to spin a bearing, that is neglect on your behalf. Just one factor surrounding what could have happened. I told you to do an oil change, which you neglected...the SIMPLEST thing you DID NOT EVEN DO to ensure your engines longevity!!!
The bottom line is YOU DIDNT HAVE THE FUNDS to ensure that everything worked hand in hand together.
Here is an example for you: A mechanic builds a car engine, and everything is new and runs great. The radiator busts while driving, and you figure, “well the mechanic told me that the engine is turn key, so Ill keep driving it and ill get to the radiator when I get to it.”
The motor overheats causing internal engine damage. Whose fault is it? The mechanic or the driver? Does this situation sound familiar?
Finally, you asked a few weeks ago for me not to text you and take it to the forums if I had anything additional to say, I did it. Now I am asking you, if you have anything additional to say, take it to court. We can hash it out there.
Any rebuttals to any of my points are unnecessary as they will not receive an additional response. Save your energy and time.
335
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: 455 break down from over heating question
« on: August 20, 2014, 08:44:04 PM »Sent from my iPhone using SoCalJetBoats
336
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: 455 break down from over heating question
« on: August 20, 2014, 08:38:18 PM »On to the next topic...
Hey General Lee, or Bozo was your name, right? ...I don’t remember. You are an instigator (you may need to google that). You don’t know the first thing about building an engine, so your input about what the issue is means nothing.
I recall the time you are referring to as it is the only interaction I have ever had with you. I told to you to come pick up your steering cable on a Saturday before 12. You texted me that you were in Downey at 3PM. I was no longer at the shop and honestly had enough of your shenanigans as prior in the week you were stroking me about my Jacuzzi WJ diverter, Which only ended with “my wife won’t let me”. I also heard through the grape-vine (since the jet boat community is so small) that I was not the only one that you stroked and promising to buy their parts and fell through.
There, I did the work for you, no need to add to the story, but please explain to me one thing. How do you get a waste of $100 fuel when you live in Temecula and my shop is in Sylmar and Google maps says that we are 105 miles door to door and you only ended up in Downey. Not to mention only 1h45min drive time one way...
I smell some embellishment...
You should remove the rest of the words from your signature and just leave “stupid”, it would be a perfect signature for you... just saying...and a lot of people wouldn’t have to be confused.
337
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: 455 break down from over heating question
« on: August 20, 2014, 08:37:09 PM »
This is the one and only time I will post on this topic and after that you will not hear a single word, I do not need to defend myself.
Let me start off by saying, that yes, it does suck that Ken’s motor went south, but before you begin passing judgement on me the builder (Don’t need anyone to blast me GENERAL LEE - as a matter of fact you can scroll to the bottom of this post as I have addressed you)
You have to have ALL the facts in line.
First off, Ken you did not pay me $3800 for the motor to be rebuilt. The $3800 was the cost of removal of the engine and engine tear down for inspection, and the patch adams rebuild that you said is all you could afford. Cost was for heads that were poured and ported with new springs and retainers as well as oiling mods, intake manifold, scoop, high capacity oil pan, rebuild of the carburetor (which I told you was too small especially without proper tuning), oil re-locator, MSD coil, 10.2mm Taylor spark plug wires, all NEW stainless steel fasteners, new head bolts, clean up engine wiring mess, etc. You were on a budget and YOU decided that you did not have the additional funds to pay for machine work. My recommendation was to over bore the block, and install new pistons as well as resize the existing connecting rods with new botls. YOUR BUDGET could not afford block machine work, new pistons, and resizing the rods and new bolts, which would have added an additional $1000+ to the bill. The good news is I have a lot of this correspondence in text messages as I always kept you informed throughout the entire build.
Instead of proper machine work (which I recommended), block was hot tanked, new cam bearings were installed, and standard cylinder bores were honed. Crank was turned 20/20, new main/rod bearings were installed, new piston rings, cam, timing chain, and new high flow oil pump.
Additionally, I insisted on numerous occasions to go out with you free of charge and tune your motor and each and every time you declined.
Throughout this process, I indicated that your gauges were reading improperly and that you needed to re-do the Mickey mouse wiring (first time I have ever seen a fuel pump grounded to a tach gauge) in which you once again indicated that you did not have the money. Then I indicated that your single bow mount fiberglass tank was delaminated and could be detrimental to the motor, that you would need to replace the tank, you again indicated NO MONEY. Additionally, I told you that you MUST do an oil change, especially after the motor had undergone the break in process, and you clearly didn’t have the funds to do the $60 oil change yourself. You could not follow a simple direction. The fram oil filter that I mounted is clearly visible in all of your break down photos.
How do you expect me to warranty internal engine items that were never machined or replaced??
Prior to you coming to pick up the boat, the cam was broken in for at least a half an hour and it was running like a champ. I have the video which I sent you to prove it. When you came the next time with your battery selector switch problem, we also ran the boat for at least a half an hour to re-charge the batteries. Then when we both went to the lake that Saturday, you spent the entire day on the lake, blasting around all over (picture below look familiar). We will count that for at least four hours, in which we spent half hour at the dock when I jumped your boat, because again you were reluctant to change the original 35 amp alternator which did not have the capacity to charge your dual batteries.
The preceding weekend you took the boat out in the morning, and only notified me of any problems at 2:30 PM. We will count 3 running engine hours for that outing. So right here, we have at least 8 hours...all on the original start up oil!!!
At that time you stated that the motor had lost oil pressure. You then said that you went and “putted it around” because you thought that your gauges were mis reading as you also noticed that the fuel gauge was not reading either. I asked you a series of questions relating to temperature, sounds, etc, in which I did not hear an answer back until almost 3 hours later when you sent me a video of the motor knocking. You indicated that you “limped” the boat back to the dock with the motor running in foul condition. I immediately came over to your house and assessed the situation. A quick over view of the motor showed evidence of a major overheat... Burnt exhaust ports, blued head bolts, collapsed exhaust hose... This led me to open the jet clean out where we found tangled up clumps of lake grass and fishing line which tied in with when you were saying that the boat would not rev and seemed stressed (no propulsion = no cooling water).
So this is what I concluded: oil got extra hot, got thinned out, oil pressure vanished, and damaged the bearings and the non- resized connecting rods did not help. When I was at your house, you understood this, but decided that at 3AM (when you to started texting me) to go through the denial phase, and began researching improper plumbing, when that clearly is not the issue. You offered up to me why my plumbing was wrong with the most ludicrous explanations. Sometimes we have to learn from our own mistakes, and I hope that it works out for you and that your motor comes together nicely with your own hands, Just a simple tip: don’t cheap out on yourself this time and do the correct machine work - you will soon see, it’s not as easy as it all looks!. I am even willing to give you another crank and some extra connecting rods free of charge as I know that you will need them.
Also just a friendly note: More Power is very knowledgable and knows his shit, wanna know why? because I tutored him about Olds 455 all the while that he was building his motor.
Let me start off by saying, that yes, it does suck that Ken’s motor went south, but before you begin passing judgement on me the builder (Don’t need anyone to blast me GENERAL LEE - as a matter of fact you can scroll to the bottom of this post as I have addressed you)
You have to have ALL the facts in line.
First off, Ken you did not pay me $3800 for the motor to be rebuilt. The $3800 was the cost of removal of the engine and engine tear down for inspection, and the patch adams rebuild that you said is all you could afford. Cost was for heads that were poured and ported with new springs and retainers as well as oiling mods, intake manifold, scoop, high capacity oil pan, rebuild of the carburetor (which I told you was too small especially without proper tuning), oil re-locator, MSD coil, 10.2mm Taylor spark plug wires, all NEW stainless steel fasteners, new head bolts, clean up engine wiring mess, etc. You were on a budget and YOU decided that you did not have the additional funds to pay for machine work. My recommendation was to over bore the block, and install new pistons as well as resize the existing connecting rods with new botls. YOUR BUDGET could not afford block machine work, new pistons, and resizing the rods and new bolts, which would have added an additional $1000+ to the bill. The good news is I have a lot of this correspondence in text messages as I always kept you informed throughout the entire build.
Instead of proper machine work (which I recommended), block was hot tanked, new cam bearings were installed, and standard cylinder bores were honed. Crank was turned 20/20, new main/rod bearings were installed, new piston rings, cam, timing chain, and new high flow oil pump.
Additionally, I insisted on numerous occasions to go out with you free of charge and tune your motor and each and every time you declined.
Throughout this process, I indicated that your gauges were reading improperly and that you needed to re-do the Mickey mouse wiring (first time I have ever seen a fuel pump grounded to a tach gauge) in which you once again indicated that you did not have the money. Then I indicated that your single bow mount fiberglass tank was delaminated and could be detrimental to the motor, that you would need to replace the tank, you again indicated NO MONEY. Additionally, I told you that you MUST do an oil change, especially after the motor had undergone the break in process, and you clearly didn’t have the funds to do the $60 oil change yourself. You could not follow a simple direction. The fram oil filter that I mounted is clearly visible in all of your break down photos.
How do you expect me to warranty internal engine items that were never machined or replaced??
Prior to you coming to pick up the boat, the cam was broken in for at least a half an hour and it was running like a champ. I have the video which I sent you to prove it. When you came the next time with your battery selector switch problem, we also ran the boat for at least a half an hour to re-charge the batteries. Then when we both went to the lake that Saturday, you spent the entire day on the lake, blasting around all over (picture below look familiar). We will count that for at least four hours, in which we spent half hour at the dock when I jumped your boat, because again you were reluctant to change the original 35 amp alternator which did not have the capacity to charge your dual batteries.
The preceding weekend you took the boat out in the morning, and only notified me of any problems at 2:30 PM. We will count 3 running engine hours for that outing. So right here, we have at least 8 hours...all on the original start up oil!!!
At that time you stated that the motor had lost oil pressure. You then said that you went and “putted it around” because you thought that your gauges were mis reading as you also noticed that the fuel gauge was not reading either. I asked you a series of questions relating to temperature, sounds, etc, in which I did not hear an answer back until almost 3 hours later when you sent me a video of the motor knocking. You indicated that you “limped” the boat back to the dock with the motor running in foul condition. I immediately came over to your house and assessed the situation. A quick over view of the motor showed evidence of a major overheat... Burnt exhaust ports, blued head bolts, collapsed exhaust hose... This led me to open the jet clean out where we found tangled up clumps of lake grass and fishing line which tied in with when you were saying that the boat would not rev and seemed stressed (no propulsion = no cooling water).
So this is what I concluded: oil got extra hot, got thinned out, oil pressure vanished, and damaged the bearings and the non- resized connecting rods did not help. When I was at your house, you understood this, but decided that at 3AM (when you to started texting me) to go through the denial phase, and began researching improper plumbing, when that clearly is not the issue. You offered up to me why my plumbing was wrong with the most ludicrous explanations. Sometimes we have to learn from our own mistakes, and I hope that it works out for you and that your motor comes together nicely with your own hands, Just a simple tip: don’t cheap out on yourself this time and do the correct machine work - you will soon see, it’s not as easy as it all looks!. I am even willing to give you another crank and some extra connecting rods free of charge as I know that you will need them.
Also just a friendly note: More Power is very knowledgable and knows his shit, wanna know why? because I tutored him about Olds 455 all the while that he was building his motor.
338
Engines / Engine Parts For Sale / Re: WTB ford 460 Heads Need A Good Set
« on: July 31, 2014, 01:39:14 PM »
I have a set of complete D3 heads, will need to be machined.
$100
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$100
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339
Engines / Engine Parts For Sale / Ford 460 Harman Marine Thru Bolt Exhaust Logs & Snails
« on: July 30, 2014, 12:25:51 PM »
These come with a set of good gaskets and all the hardware needed to mount them to the engine.
$300 plus shipping if needed. I'm in San Fernando, 91342
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$300 plus shipping if needed. I'm in San Fernando, 91342
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340
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: 460 exhaust manifold gasket
« on: July 29, 2014, 09:26:27 PM »
I have a set of those thru bolt harman marine logs with large snails...
300 plus shipping if needed
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300 plus shipping if needed
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341
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: WTH caused this..daaam!!!
« on: July 27, 2014, 06:00:16 PM »
I don't see anything wrong... If you are referring to those "holes" those are ment to be there. Oil returns
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342
Engines / Engine Parts For Sale / Re: 460 logs and snails needed
« on: July 27, 2014, 08:33:07 AM »
Sent a pm
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PM replied
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343
Engines / Engine Parts For Sale / Re: 460 logs and snails needed
« on: July 26, 2014, 09:52:21 PM »
I have a nice set of harman marine long bolt manifolds with large snails...
300 plus shipping
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300 plus shipping
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344
The No Wake Zone / Re: Finally hitting the water
« on: July 25, 2014, 08:29:03 PM »Oh crap I so want to see that bad boy done. So you will be on pyramid Sunday? What time are you heading out?
I'll head out there about 10...
Make sure your boat it bone dry, everywhere! They are really strict there.
Good thing I was tagged from castaic the other week I went.
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345
The No Wake Zone / Re: Finally hitting the water
« on: July 25, 2014, 06:41:41 PM »
Nice ! I'm gonna be out there too! Roadrunner Jason says he's gonna be out with a few boats too..Should be a good day.
Went to pyramid yesterday, had a great time.
I look forward to seeing how your engine turned out!
I'll be in this boat
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Went to pyramid yesterday, had a great time.
I look forward to seeing how your engine turned out!
I'll be in this boat
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346
Project Boats For Sale / Re: Beautiful custom made 18-20' dual axle trailer
« on: July 25, 2014, 11:28:10 AM »
SOLD !!!
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347
SoCal Lakes / Re: pryamid sunday
« on: July 24, 2014, 05:59:39 PM »
Great day today on the water at lake pyramid, even though it was 105! Didn't see not one jet boat out there
And what's a day on the water without the lake lice dumb dumbs getting hurt... When we were coming in for the day there was all kinds of emergency personnel and a helicopter getting ready to land.
Where do you regulars normally hang out?
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And what's a day on the water without the lake lice dumb dumbs getting hurt... When we were coming in for the day there was all kinds of emergency personnel and a helicopter getting ready to land.
Where do you regulars normally hang out?
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348
WTB / Re: Angle cut exhaust tips
« on: July 22, 2014, 10:34:58 PM »
I got these...
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349
Project Boats For Sale / Re: 1976 Hallett Mini Day for sale
« on: July 20, 2014, 03:29:14 PM »
1500 on craigslist and 1700 to us scjb guys... Nice!
Wonder what's gonna happen with that theft recovery "paperwork"
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Wonder what's gonna happen with that theft recovery "paperwork"
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350
Project Boats For Sale / Re: Beautiful custom made 18-20' dual axle trailer
« on: July 19, 2014, 06:09:34 AM »Where are you at in LA , I live in santa clarita , I want it. You can text me 8186209007
I'm in sylmar, 91342... Sent you a text
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