Null

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - obnoxious001

Pages: 1 ... 12 13 [14] 15 16 ... 19
326
Engines / Engine Parts For Sale / Re: BBC 427
« on: November 20, 2009, 07:42:16 PM »
x

327
Engines / Engine Parts For Sale / Re: BBC 427
« on: November 19, 2009, 09:46:59 PM »
x

328
Engines / Engine Parts For Sale / Re: wtb bbc
« on: October 29, 2009, 11:10:51 AM »
looking for a NOT built bbc. just a stocker, short block, long block, as long as its good for rebuild, bare block, help a fellow jet boater out.
thanks

I have a bunch of parts here, may have some stuff that works for you depending on what you want to build. 

329
You actually need a leak down test, not a compression test.  Then you can determine if you have a problem with blowby.  If this is a new problem, and you haven't recently added or changed oil, you might be able to rule out the oil level being too high, but perhaps worth checking as well.

330
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Timing
« on: October 26, 2009, 09:06:58 AM »
Just be sure to index "true TDC" and go 0 to 0...Also the tape needs to be the right length for the math to work. I normally use a cut off tool to grind "hash" marks into the balancer..What can I say? I'm a cheap focker. ;D

GT

I agree, you only really need one mark, depending on what total timing you want to run.  36 degrees is particularly easy to find.  Measure the circumference of the balancer and divide by 10 (full circumference is 360 degrees). 

Be careful to be accurate, and as mentioned, it does rely on TDC having been properly indexed.  I rebuilt one forced induction engine that had the timing mark off by 6 degrees.

331
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: offseason new motor purchase
« on: October 26, 2009, 08:59:50 AM »
Ok,, the plan is to build a really nice 638 cu in engine with a single carb.  We found a good deal on some lightly used American parts, as follows:

Merlin "Pro" block 10.2" tall deck
Crower  crankshaft
Oliver connecting rods
CP pistons (new)
ATI balancer
Brodix BB2 "Extra" heads
Jesel shaft rockers
Brodix single plane intake, Domintor flange

I already had the block at the shop having the paint removed before the current owner decided to resell the parts, and the rotating assembly is already balanced, so it's mostly a matter of selecting and purchasing the parts needed to complete the engine, and then putting it all together.  We have already discussed dyno testing since it's going to take a ride across the country once I am done with it.  Knowing the power output will be a nice bonus, but making sure that it runs properly with no leaks should be worth the extra money spent.

332
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: offseason new motor purchase
« on: October 23, 2009, 12:16:52 AM »
Thanks John.. He's already been awesome to work with.. Very straight up and honest  :thumbup:  Barry, feel free to post anything you like along the way :)

Why don't you announce what we will be building.  Once I actually start working on it, I will put up some photos and stuff.  I talked to the dyno guy that I plan to use for a bit today. 

333
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: offseason new motor purchase
« on: October 21, 2009, 07:15:13 PM »
Glad to see you opted for a PRO instead of PROduction Good choice !

Thanks for the vote of confidence.  If we proceed with the project, and Bill doesn't mind, I will post photos and details.  This one should be lots of fun!  I believe this one will see the dyno as well.

334
WTB / Re: WANTED: BBC thru transom headers
« on: October 14, 2009, 11:29:59 AM »
To buy or trade for my Bassett O/T's, who's got what?

I have a set I may be able to trade for a bag of money.  I need to check and see for sure if this other friend doesn't want them for his boat, they have been sitting in my garage for quite some time, but in good shape.

335
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: offseason new motor purchase
« on: October 14, 2009, 11:18:10 AM »
Working with Barry on this. :) more to follow

I am not saying anything yet, but this one should be a lot of fun to post photos and build information.

336
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: no top end oil
« on: October 07, 2009, 01:27:00 PM »
I have a box of points type distributors that probably will never be used, just never been that important of an issue to take the time to make one up. 

337
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: no top end oil
« on: October 06, 2009, 09:48:41 PM »
  Hmm, I have been meaning to build an extra one out of a distributor so I could clamp it down to the intake and have my hands free to turn the engine over if I wanted to. 

338
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: no top end oil
« on: October 06, 2009, 10:33:18 AM »
If it is a Chevy, you need the priming tool that simulates having a distributor in place to contain the lifter oil passage if you expect to see oil up top.  If you are simply using one of the shafts that chuck into the drill with nothing to complete that passage, it creates a tremendous "leak"back down the distributor hole.

Last time I checked, Chevy's do take a clockwise rotation viewed from the top.

339
WTB / Re: WTB: 1150 Carb
« on: October 05, 2009, 12:50:54 PM »
I have a clean 1250 cfm Holley list# 80532 for $500, and  1050 cfm Holley (9375) that had the AED calibration and rebuild, still in the AED box for $600

340
Engines / Engine Parts For Sale / Re: 1971 402 block and heads
« on: September 25, 2009, 02:25:18 PM »
Inpected the crank and determined it might be a better boat anchor. 

Heads and block are cleaned and painted,, $100 for all

341
WTB / WTB 4 bolt 454 block
« on: September 22, 2009, 08:19:35 PM »
I need a 4 bolt 454 block only,, needs to be able to clean up at 4.310"  (.060" over)

342
WTB / Re: Looking for a SBC block
« on: September 21, 2009, 06:00:17 PM »
For a Possible project.... no smaller than a 350 block

Not for sure yet , but want to get some feelers out there.

I will find out today if its going to happen.

Thank you.



I have more sbc stuff than I know what to do with here.   A whole assortment of different 350 bare blocks already cleaned and painted,, maybe a couple of 400 blocks, and a 305.    I also have a complete 350 engine kit, block, balanced assembly, complete I think.

343
Engines / Engine Parts For Sale / 1971 402 block and heads
« on: September 21, 2009, 10:30:57 AM »
I have a 1971 2 bolt 402 block and dated bare oval port heads if there are any car guys looking.  They have been cleaned and painted already by someone.  Need to sell cheap,, $150 obo.  2 bolt block looks to be std bore, will need one sleeve due to a crack.  Cast crank.  Heads are bare but date appropriate for the block.

344
Engines / Engine Parts For Sale / Re: WTB 496 Stuff
« on: September 14, 2009, 11:12:52 AM »

345
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: LOW OIL PRESSURE
« on: September 04, 2009, 08:42:46 AM »
heres the story stock 454 chevy. went on the lake yesterday had 60 psi on the oil pressure gauge at 3000 rpm. took it to 4300 rpm and droped to 20 psi were it wont come back up.what do you guys think MAIN bearings.now theres no oil leaks externally.and the motor isnt knocking yet. were going tocheck the oil gauge today, to make sure its not a false reading..oh by the way the motor is 30 years old so i cant say he didnt get his moneys worth..

I would suggest draining oil and inspecting it for debris, possibly even cutting the oil filter if you don't see anything real obvious in the oil.  I would do that prior to running with any other gauge to try and prevent further damage if it's already hurt, may cost less to fix.

346
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Need new cam and lifter kit help please
« on: September 02, 2009, 11:15:02 AM »
i am building a bbc from scratch now. guess i am going roller, what is the difference?

Sent you a PM,, if you call me I can explain some of the questions that you have better.  Roller will cost more, especially if you didn't start with one in your Gen 5 block.  I have actually never lost a flat tappet cam in all the years I have been building engines, break in is key.

347
WTB / Re: WTB: 4500 (Dom) Carb Scoop
« on: August 30, 2009, 09:01:10 PM »
The race at lake ming is coming up and im on a strict budget.......need a single carb scoop for a dominator 4500 series carb.....fiberglass, metal, dont care....let me know what ya got. not lookin to spend a fortune. it will be temporarly used until i can afford the scoop i want.

Brad

You might be able to get Louis to bring along the flame arrestor he pulled off his boat at Long Beach when he bolted on the mailbox.  I would be willing to bet he would let you run it free at the one race if that might help you out.

348
WTB / Re: WTB: 4500 (Dom) Carb Scoop
« on: August 30, 2009, 08:59:35 PM »
I've got this one 75 bucks


Lance,, check PB, there was a guy wanting something very similar to your scoop, might be in jets not spam, I forget.

349
Thanks for the reply GT.  Yeah i wasn't happy, but at least I got to the root of the problem.  Now you have me freaking out that I could do more damage by not breaking the entire motor down.  :banghead:  .  So if i went with a Hydraulic like you suggest, is there a specific model you would recommend based on my specs or should I just call Comp directly?

Bill.. PM sent. 

Plan on tearing the whole thing down to prevent possible further distruction.  I recently took one apart for a guy, bearings were all trashed, cylinder walls scored, and steel embedded in the brand new piston skirts.  I didn't build the engine originally, and the customer admitted that he made mistakes in break in procedure. 

350
Engines / Engine Parts For Sale / Re: BBC 10 quart jet boat oil pan
« on: August 29, 2009, 12:35:54 PM »
Mark 4, Gen 5/6 ?

-beerjet-

This one is Mk 4.

I do have a mint condition used Gen 6 type Milodon supercomp dragster pan that would work in a jet boat

Pages: 1 ... 12 13 [14] 15 16 ... 19

Null

SMFPacks CMS 1.0.3 © 2026