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Messages - speedymopars

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351
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: problems with water in the oil.
« on: April 06, 2008, 09:45:15 AM »
Elwood, you probably have more experiance than I do with water pressure, but I would be worried that 75-100 lbs is too much. Cylinder pressures reach far more than that, so maybe it's OK, but I always assumed 30 lbs was a safe maximum to avoid blowing out a head gasket.

I know if I find out I can safely do 40 + lbs I will be really happy, becuase I have a 40 psi preset water regulator so it is a simple plumbing job.

352
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Lets talk fuel fills...venting ?
« on: April 06, 2008, 07:47:22 AM »
On my boat I had those same fills, and external vents that dump outside the hull.

353
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: problems with water in the oil.
« on: April 06, 2008, 07:42:30 AM »
If you are sucking just a little water in, esp if the rings are worn, the motor may not hydrolock. It will only do that if there is more uncompressible liquid than air. You also don't know how long it took for the oil to get that way - it may have been an entire season or two.

354
The No Wake Zone / Re: 455 OLDS?????????
« on: April 05, 2008, 08:52:02 PM »
So I went to go look at it and it is really clean, but the guy switched the manifold and put a double pumper on there and is having overheating problems????? I think he put the manifold gasket on wrong? Any thoughts?

Maybe there is a vaccum leak at the manifold or carb, that could be the lean issue. Also, if he gooped RTV around the water passages, debris could be clogging the colling.

355
Gelcoat / Paint / Fireberglass Repair / Re: It's coming along...
« on: April 05, 2008, 07:45:26 AM »
Thanks! The hull is pretty deep, lots 'o room. I think the engine cover is gonna clear the TR, Stealth mode :-)



356
Gelcoat / Paint / Fireberglass Repair / Re: It's coming along...
« on: April 04, 2008, 09:39:50 PM »
Reworked the impellor, polished the bowl and tunnel ram, reinstalled the engine, painted the swimstep Blue with marine polyeurathane.

Next week. Finish wiring, install gauges and interior.


357
Jet Pumps / Re: HYD PD control
« on: April 04, 2008, 07:33:20 PM »
What did ya pay? The more I think about it I am really likin the idea of it being on the wheel. Being that I do the quick racing thing with my buddies, the rough water sometimes that we hit, and the yahoos on the river that I sometimes encounter, I like the idea that I can keep BOTH hands on the steering wheel ;D  Mark

It was a bundled deal from place, so I couldn't tell you exactly how much for the switch itself.

358
Jet Pumps / Re: HYD PD control
« on: April 04, 2008, 04:49:46 PM »
What do you guys get for the wheel mounted switches? I am kinda leaning that way now. Thanks for all the info guys ;D      Mark

I got mine at Place. Though now I'm debating if I am going to mount it on the wheel. I'm thinking the dash would be better.

359
Jet Pumps / Re: The cure for first start blues?
« on: April 04, 2008, 04:40:47 PM »
sounds like your mind is made up, so why did you ask for advise/opinions ???

Not really made up, just talking through it. I am actually leaning towards a "it's not worth it" answer.

I've built enough aluminum rod (and my current 528 KB is *completely* aluminum except for the rods, pins, and crank) engines to know how aluminum reacts to RPM's and heat. Your comment that it grows made me think about *how* it reacts.  My understanding of aluminum tells me the RPM isn't as big of factor as the heat would be - and I wasn't even thinking about the heat at all though it is a MAJOR issue. More RPM will make more heat and do it quicker, so that's probably why the two are linked.


Or maybe I'm completely wrong.




360
Jet Pumps / Re: The cure for first start blues?
« on: April 04, 2008, 09:39:40 AM »
Unfortunately for me, I have to pull the engine to get to the the driveshaft.

Usually there is something that needs to be tweeked on first fire up, I was trying to do that in my driveway then go straight to water. The AL isn't going to grow that much with RPM, however it will grow quite a bit with heat. The pumps would eat themselves up in the water too if it was only about RPM. The water carries away all the heat.

In thinking about that, the assy lube probably would allow me a few minutes of run time, but probably not much more because clearances would still start shrinking with the heat generated, it would just give a little more time before destruction starts.

The intake line does put water to the jet, and seeing where it is, there would be some splash (though not much, it's on the wrong side of the ring) for lube, and the water would carry away heat.

The combo of assy lube and water may be enough to do a few minute test fire with a new pump without damage I'm theorizing. Once the pump has some time on it and the clearances are bigger, that would be more time you can run it assuming you clear the debris out.


361
Gelcoat / Paint / Fireberglass Repair / Re: New Paint idea? (car)
« on: April 04, 2008, 08:08:32 AM »
Hey Speedy what is he looking at for mods? forced induction? Shoot, whatever he's got I WANT!

www.diablosport.com

Can't say at the moment - It's under development and there is more left in it. 

The new hemi heads are insane. With minor mods they flow 370 + CFM with great low speed charateristics.

362
Jet Pumps / Re: HYD PD control
« on: April 04, 2008, 07:34:42 AM »
I'm not mounting a DAMN thing on my new steering wheel.




I like! Where did you get it?

363
Jet Pumps / The cure for first start blues?
« on: April 04, 2008, 07:32:43 AM »
I was thinking this morning - which is usually dangerous.


On an engine build, to save the bearings from the first time start, we use assembly lube in one form or another. This is basically a grease that will dissolve when oil flows through it, so that first run has full bearing lubrication and doesn't eat itself up even if it takes a while for the oil to flow.

On a jet, the only issue with running dry from what I can see, is the wear ring to impellor clearance (first time start - debris is an issue later). So what if I coated the wear ring with assy lube? I would obviously wash it out before the jet hit the water, BUT it would allow me to fire the new engine / new jet for the first time in my driveway without worrying about it being on the water.

Thoughts ? Other areas I would need to lube?

364
Gelcoat / Paint / Fireberglass Repair / Re: New Paint idea? (car)
« on: April 03, 2008, 01:07:40 PM »
My best friend owns a little company called DiabloSport. His 300 SRT8 is pumping out 618 HP to the rear wheels. As far as the new challenger - here it is:


365
Events / Re: NJBA at Irvine Lake April 2008
« on: April 03, 2008, 12:26:30 AM »
i'LL BE THERE  ;D

366
Trailers / Re: launching behind a Class A RV
« on: April 02, 2008, 08:21:56 PM »
Speedy,

Double check the tag axle brakes, I see too many that owners don't realize there is a second master cylinder/reservoir and the tag brake system is empty and doing nothing.


I'll check it. Thanks....

367
Gelcoat / Paint / Fireberglass Repair / Re: New Paint idea? (car)
« on: April 02, 2008, 09:58:49 AM »
No thanks on the cam, just like I bet you do, he has a boo-koo amount of cams, heads, blocks, parts, and part cars lol.

The second picture, I was looking at the newer Pro-stock cars for what they run. But it was a red car so I have to work with it.



Yea, the stroker boat engine was built with spare parts. I had to buy the cam, pistons, and gaskets, but everything else was already there :-)

Now I'm trying to sell off stuff 'cause I need the room. If I ever decide to get serious about boats, Maybe I'll run that cam in something. It's a good cam, just not big enough for my cars.

Red with black always looks good.






368
Gelcoat / Paint / Fireberglass Repair / Re: New Paint idea? (car)
« on: April 02, 2008, 09:25:17 AM »
The second one down is starting to grow on me.

Is he still looking for a cam? I have a Crane solid roller in the garage with 50 miles on it - it was too mellow for me so I stepped it up quite a bit, but it should be able to hit the 9's.


Part Number: 688981 Grind Number: R-280/4468-8
Engine Identification:     
Start Yr. End Yr. Make Cyl Description
1970 1978 PLYMOUTH-DODGE-CHRYSLER 8 COMPETITION ONLY, SINGLE 4-BARREL, SUPER STOCK 383-400 CU.IN., AUTO TRANS W/RACE CONVERTER, 11.5 MINIMUM COMP. RATIO ADVISED. BASIC RPM 4700-8000
Engine Size Configuration   
383-440 C.I. V   
 
Valve Setting: Intake .028 Exhaust .030 HOT
 
Lift: Intake @Cam 4468 @Valve 670 All Lifts are based
on zero lash and theoretical rocker arm ratios.
  Exhaust @ Cam 4468 @Valve 670
Rocker Arm Ratio 1.5     
 
Cam Timing: TAPPET @.0225
Lift:   Opens Closes ADV Duration
  Intake 53 BTDC 79 ABDC 312 °
  Exhaust 89 BBDC 43 ATDC 312 °
 
Spring Requirements:   Triple   Dual   Outer   Inner
Part Number 99885
Loads Closed 215 LBS @ 1.950 or 1 61/64
  Open 586 LBS @ 1.330     
 Recommended RPM range with matching components
Minimum RPM 4600
Maximum RPM 8200
Valve Float 8800
 
Cam Timing: TAPPET @.050
Lift:   Opens Closes Max Lift Duration
  Intake 37 BTDC 63 ABDC 103 280 °
  Exhaust 73 BBDC 27 ATDC 113 280 °
 
Remarks:
MUST MACHINE INNER SPRING SEAT FLUSH WITH OUTER SEAT. 
 

369
Gelcoat / Paint / Fireberglass Repair / Re: New Paint idea? (car)
« on: April 02, 2008, 09:13:36 AM »
I don't like the top one, the next one down is much better. BUT I suck at schemes - That's why my car is un striped - I can't figure out what to do!

I like your dads. What dragway is that?

370
Gelcoat / Paint / Fireberglass Repair / Re: New Paint idea? (car)
« on: April 02, 2008, 09:00:16 AM »
2

371
Gelcoat / Paint / Fireberglass Repair / Re: New Paint idea? (car)
« on: April 02, 2008, 08:56:34 AM »
Join me over at www.bigblockdart.com - The coolest website for the A body big block crowd (for those that don't know - Big blocks weren't really offered in the Darts and Dusters (A Bodys), so most over there are racers who have done the swap and race the crap out of them).

There are some big picture galleries over there for you to get ideas from. I'd give you some ideas, but I'm challenged when it comes to that!

Here's my 70 Duster with a 528 in it.

372
The No Wake Zone / Re: 65 k ?????????? wtf
« on: April 02, 2008, 08:48:31 AM »
I'm still trying to figure out how Teague Custom Marine can charge $37,000 for a 720 HP engine..........................

Same reason why West marine can get $15 for a paint brush - those days are coming to an end - the gouging is hafta stop soon 'cause the boating industry is in a major slump at the moment.

373
Trailers / Re: launching behind a Class A RV
« on: April 02, 2008, 08:33:19 AM »
Speedy,

You should not have a problem with launching using the motorhome because of the amount of weight on the rear wheels, just don't trust the parking brake to hold the coach (have someone keep a foot on the brake).  Depending on the year of P30/P32 chassis it might have an autopark hydraulic brake assembly that is applied whenever you put the transmission in park, the problem is that with this system they don't install the parking pawls in the transmission, so if the brake doesn't hold the transmission will not help.  

Hope this helps

crewchief

Yes it does - Thanks!

Luckily it doesn't have the autopark system (it has a park that holds it) but the single cable going to a disk on the driveshaft for the parking brake I don't feel comfortable with. The brakes are pretty good though, 4 drums and 2 disks stop it surprisingly well.


It's gonna be a long rig, 61 feet.



374
Trailers / Re: new trailer
« on: April 01, 2008, 08:25:52 PM »
A little farther out - in gardenia - I had Baja Trailers do a trailer for me. I won't say it was the prettiest trailer ever, but at 2500 with disk brakes, side bunks / guides, dual axles, bearing buddies and spare I will say it was a great cost / performance ratio. Tows really nice.

375
Trailers / Re: launching behind a Class A RV
« on: April 01, 2008, 08:23:33 PM »
just call me my diesel will pull it the rest of the way up

Yea, I have a Chevy 454 in it, I'll probably need lots of help.


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