I have thru transome exhaust. Im not 100% but it seems like it leaks less with outdrive up

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it probably leaks less because you're stretching the bellows and closing the hole up.  id check the main driveshaft bellows and the shift cable bellows.

if it was a cut or a tear, sure... they make little repair kits.  but your sounds like its rotten from sun and age... so nope.  duct tape over it and cover it with a towel and keep boating.  fix that stuff during the winter time.  the good part is taht you have the seat and vinyl so whoever you take it to will give you a better deal since they can just undo the stitching and make a template for the new vinyl. 

fender is 66 x 7 1/2"

whole fender and step is 82 1/2" in length
step + fender is 14" wide. 

finally got the fenders and step/skids off with the suspension.  the rear bolts were just completely rusted.  tried a cutting wheel but there just wasnt any room.  so i broke out my giant cheater bar and broke the bolts off with my big dog crab arms.

messin around seeing what it'll look like



all new suspension hardware, hangers, straps, springs, equalizers, and bolts.





all the bolts are greasable with zirc fittings and the equalizers have nylon inserts.  no more squeaks and it should last a little longer with the salt dips.



monday im picking up a pair of 10' 4x2 angle and then im gonna mock it all up.  i did a quick measure on the floor and it put my end axles at 68" apart which gives me a good 4-6" between each tire and to the fenders.  perfect!  the guy at the trailer store wasnt of much help dimensions wise.  im not sure if i want to put steps back on it or not.  i like the way trailers look with floating fenders but getting in/out of the boat on teh trailer will be a complete pain in the ass...

thanks to morepower for the hookup on the wheels.  they're at the tire store now having new rubber put on em. and i paid em an extra $5 a wheel to scrape the inside of em out as they had a good solid 1" thick coating of wheel grease.  good progress on the triple axle conversion.  I just need the leafs and hangers at this point.

What store do you get all your electrical stuff from? I'm planning on doing some of my switches over and I'd like to get fuses on all of my stuff.


Life is uncertain. Don't sip.

theres an electronics store by my house in huntington beach called JK Electronics.  I got the box, relay mount, leds, and fuses.  and i ended up finding the bosch relays at a swapmeet in long beach.  bosch relays are hard to find and MOST places will sell you the china knockoffs. The switches came from West Marine as I wanted something brass/stainless that would hold up to the elements and not turn to rusted crap like most vatozone/pepboys junk. 

Not sure at all. I have another crank sitting here. Didn't think that was possible. The amount of vibration it does make sense. What is the amount of damage that could be done if I run it for the rest of the season? Stringers? Pump?

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you have a horrible vibration and you wanna run it for a whole season?  man you got some deep pockets. 

one pump rebuilt.  new wiring, cleaned up the motor.  new solenoids, etc.  then ill put the trim tabs up for sale. 

Might be easier to strip the hull and sell it all separately and sell the trailer. Junking a hull is 50 bucks. I think a tandem would sell quick for a couple hundred. Same with pump.

I know the crack will come through again, but im not going to gel coat it, just a cheap paint job to get rid of the black paint

on my 18 footer i had a rubrail that looked like hell.  so i removed it and i found this trim striping tape at west marine to cover it and it held up pretty good and looked decent.  if it were me id toss a paintjob on it and cover the crack once it appears with the tape and call it a day.  rubrail aint cheap.



http://www.westmarine.com/west-marine--premium-striping-tape-1--P004_132_002_004

put the boat on blocks.  take 2x4's cut like 1' long and stack em like lincoln logs with a screw in each one.  set the boat down on that in the corners and on the keel in the front.  done deal.  finding a trailer with bunks to match your bahner is gonna be tough.

schiada
howard/hallett
cole superhawk


my next boat ill probably do to the 9s with a big cube blower motor and take my time.  gonna toss all that money and work into a hull thats worth a damn.

if you have logs steam CAN be normal, but it should be a little cause for concern.  steam means cold water is hitting a hotter than balls surface and vaporizing.  why is that surface so hot?  did you just run it like crazy and then go back to idle?  so something that is hot is now getting a lesser amount of water flowing through it?  just keep an eye out for any blockages in your cooling lines and that your exhaust water dumping is "normal."  remember that "too hot" can mean possibly burning your rubber exhaust hose... its only good to a few hundred degree's and that water flowing through it keeps you from having a giant hole and a giant leak into your boat.

when i do a run and i slow down quickly ill get some steam and then it will go away.