Null

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - speedymopars

Pages: 1 ... 18 19 [20] 21 22 ... 28
476
Jet Pumps / Re: bowl stuffer installation..how to..pics/install
« on: February 29, 2008, 10:01:02 PM »
What's the going rate to take a stock JC and make it work as well as it can (without trying to get that last .001%) ?

477
http://www.slantsix.org/articles/leanburn-article/leanburn-article.htm

This article, while it talks about converting a mopar 6 over to electronic, applies to anyone wanting to have a backup plan with a magnetic disti.


478
Which is better The magnetic breakerless ignition or the unilite ?
I have a Magnetic setup but There doesn't seem to be a way to test it accurately, and I want to keep a spare on hand, so i'll be buying one of the two anyway. Has anyone had good or bad experiences with either of these. Also I have the 6al w/ rev limiter and mallory 29440 coil, and yes the resistor too   ;D


You won't go wrong with either. I've been running both in various vehicles, in various configurations for years without issues.

Mopar used the magnetic p/u's from 1970-2007 so the dirt cheap boxes at the junkyard can fire the coil. Get one so if the 6 ever dies, you can wire and go.

The unilites can fire the coil directly as long as you have the resistor in line, but they themselves can die. However when driven from a 6 or hyfire, they tend to last a really long time (I'm on 18 years and counting).

Buy the one that is cheapest, prettiest, has sealed bearings, or has the most tuning (curves) capability - whatever your hot button is.

479
Jet Pumps / Re: c and d impellars
« on: February 29, 2008, 12:02:34 AM »
heh heh :)

At your service  O0

480
Jet Pumps / Re: c and d impellars
« on: February 28, 2008, 11:29:35 AM »
Now use that and say, OK, if I'm pumping out 600 ft lbs of torque at 2000-3000 RPM, but my HP peeks out at 4000 RPM, then you want the impeller that takes the most force down low, not one that allows the engine to spin 5000 RPM. Max water flow at the lowest RPM that matches.  AA, A2-4, etc.

Now if you are running that larger cam, you need to take advantage of the higher rpm power, so you need to let the impeller "slip" to take advantage of that higher RPM - otherwise because of the lower power output at the lower RPM's - you may never get there.

481
Jet Pumps / Re: c and d impellars
« on: February 28, 2008, 11:11:11 AM »
Now I put in an even bigger 292 duration .690 lift cam vs the hyd. Now I changed the exhaust and optimized the combo somewhat. I have to run all of the good hardware, better rods, pistons, studs, etc etc - added lots of $$ to the engine. I have the same raw torque number, but at a different RPM.

Look at the torque (green line vs green line).

What is changing? The RPM it is happening at, not the number itself.

If you were to look at the torque number only, you wouldn'y pay the money to modify your engine, that's for sure.


482
Jet Pumps / Re: c and d impellars
« on: February 28, 2008, 11:03:15 AM »
OK - here is what I did to illistrate my point.

Same engine, heads, carb CFM, small tube headers. 

I "put" a small hyd cam with a dual plane in one of the engines, while I put a solid roller with a tunnel ram in the other.

hyd is .425 lift, 206 duration while the roller is .606 lift with 246 duration. I didn't go too radical because then you need to worry about changing exhaust, etc. and I'm trying to keep it the same.


Assuming the stuff you need to change for the roller, $300 cam, $300 lifters, $240 pushrods, $300 roller rockers, $500 in valvesprings, keepers, retainers - well I'm into it for $1700 just in the valvetrain.

Look at the graph - I only gained ~30 ft/lbs of torque for all that effort - and I know I could get that 30 ft lbs by optimizing the combo without changing the cam.

483
Jet Pumps / Re: exactly why? don't run your pump dry?
« on: February 28, 2008, 10:46:49 AM »
Anyone have a link to a jetaway?  Google surprisingly isn't turning up anything.

484
Jet Pumps / Re: exactly why? don't run your pump dry?
« on: February 28, 2008, 08:22:54 AM »
so why isn't there a clutch or disconnect available?

485
Jet Pumps / Re: c and d impellars
« on: February 28, 2008, 08:09:54 AM »
Gee I wish I would have joined this thread earlier - I could have cleared it up by saying that the torque measurement tells how much a weight can be moved (400 foot pounds - or how much effort it takes to lift 400 pounds one foot) and horsepower (how long it takes to lift that 400 lbs one foot in the air).




This is also why you have torque wrenches and not horsepower wrenches :)

486
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: WWSCJBD - What ignition
« on: February 27, 2008, 09:59:34 PM »
OK, it looks like the MSD is the one. I think I'll wire it so I can select the Mopar ECU or the MSD. Worst case the Mopar one will allow me to run the rest of the weekend should the MSD ever die.  Easy enough to see if there is any difference in performance too.

Does anyone have that extension cable they provide with the MSD for the mopar / magnetic pick up distributors they would like to get rid of? It hooks to the green/purple pigtail on the MSD... I figure most of you woudn't need that wire....

487
Jet Pumps / Re: c and d impellars
« on: February 27, 2008, 05:51:31 PM »
Gee I wish I would have joined this thread earlier - I could have cleared it up by saying that the torque measurement tells how much a weight can be moved (400 foot pounds - or how much effort it takes to lift 400 pounds one foot) and horsepower (how long it takes to lift that 400 lbs one foot in the air).

(Torque x Engine speed) / 5,252 = Horsepower

5252 is the result of many formulas, including rpm's to rps, foot pound to pound feet, etc - basically take all of those conversions, and you get 5252. Because of this, the torque and hosepower lines will cross at these two points. If someone really wants me to post the real formula - I suggest you do a google search, I'm sure something will come up.

All engines make torque, all engines make horsepower.

The faster you spin an engine, with everything else equaled, the more HP it makes because the work is happening faster.

What we call a torque engine is just some term humans use to catagorize things. If the engine makes max power below 5252, the printed out dyno curve is going to make the torque curve higher than the HP curve - and humans will say it is a torque engine. Conversely if the max HP happens above the 5252 line, the HP number will look bigger - hence a HP engine.

You can run the same 1/4 mile number with a "torque" engine as with a "horsepower" engine (assuming you could make the raw average numbers the same). 
This is why we can have cummins diesels in 4x4 trucks running low 10's in the quarter mile with only 300 peek HP. 

The torque number is mostly dictated by the cubic inches, compression, and fuel - without too much you can do to change it (other than turning up the boost or adding nitrous to make the engine seem larger) - hence the reason why spinning it faster is really the only thing to do. You can't make more torque than the ci allows without boost, but you can spin it faster to make more horsepower.


Oh well, I thought this would be quick...

488
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: WWSCJBD - What ignition
« on: February 27, 2008, 08:08:26 AM »
If you're more worried about the water ruining the product than anything else... I decided to go through a "mud puddle" in my old truck, next thing I know the water is as high as the aluminum trim on the side of the truck inches below window level and it's still only in 2WD. I gave her some more gas and got the FOCK out of there. When I popped the hood to make sure all was good the entire box was below the water line and covered in mud. A little perspective: The bottom of the window on that truck was level with my nose, I'm 5'11".

The box was mounted right below brake booster.




Good to know -

BTW cool truck

489
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: WWSCJBD - What ignition
« on: February 27, 2008, 08:03:15 AM »
I run Mags. For the price of a dist. coil and MSD you can pick one up off ebay.
An MSD box  sparks for twenty degrees crankshaft rotation, mine sparks for twenty six degrees.


God I'd love to run a MAG - to bad I can't afford one (they aren't as cheap for my motor)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-Vertex-Magneto-RB-series-426-Chrysler-hemi-engines_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1638Q2em118Q2el1247QQcategoryZ33690QQihZ015QQitemZ250176737563QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V

490
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: WWSCJBD - What ignition
« on: February 26, 2008, 11:05:32 PM »
Thanks everyone - keep em coming.

BTW - I missed an option. points with an MSD.. IS that really an option?

With points + MSD, I could bypass in an emergency and run it direct I suppose. Probably overthinking things like I always do...

491
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: WWSCJBD - What ignition
« on: February 26, 2008, 06:40:51 PM »
So what does the marine version have that makes it so expensive?

492
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / WWSCJBD - What ignition
« on: February 26, 2008, 06:22:13 PM »
Obviously have to weigh the performance vs getting stranded vs ease of on lake repairs.

Thanks!

493
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Gettin' close
« on: February 26, 2008, 08:19:15 AM »
My friend had the same thing happen to his boat. He's got the high dollar Teague Marine 502, he killed the throttle right as a wave hit the back of his boat and hydrolock. He has the IMCO exhaust with mega risers and tube WAY above the waterline... Definitely keep that in mind.

I love the sound of the Mopars, totally different than the rest. You can always tell when a Chevy's coming, Ford's have their own tune-especially the 4.6's but those Mopars are just mean sounding. When one of our engineers here at work brings his little Mopar (528 Hemi) to work I'll try to get some video.


When you say that he killed his throttle, you mean he shut it off or that he was idling?
I'm getting worried now...

Love to hear the hemi...


494
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Gettin' close
« on: February 25, 2008, 11:16:30 PM »
I'm not one of the above mentioned experts, but, I would put money on water coming back into the engine if the exhaust is below or close to the water line.  I have had water "forced" back through my snails from a large rogue type wave hitting the back of the boat without sufficient throttle. (I also had good condition flappers when this occurred) It just seems like that set up is asking for water lock.

So the snails weren't even enough to keep out the water?

495
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Gettin' close
« on: February 25, 2008, 11:11:12 PM »
I should also add that I am going to see where the water injectors end up vs the waterline. In the olds they were slightly above or at waterline, I think the BBM will be 7-10 inches above that. Too bad I don't know of any clear exhaust hose...that would answer the question pretty quick.

Any and all comments welcome

 

496
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Gettin' close
« on: February 25, 2008, 10:36:50 PM »
Now I think I can flip the manifolds and gain a little drop (the logs will be lower than the ex ports - maybe) but would it be enough to matter?

497
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Gettin' close
« on: February 25, 2008, 10:34:48 PM »
Here is a mopar

498
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Gettin' close
« on: February 25, 2008, 10:34:12 PM »
OK, a good point about my logs was brought up.

The first pic here is an olds -

499
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Gettin' close
« on: February 25, 2008, 09:16:03 PM »
What no mopar .509 cam? I love that sucka  ;D


Love it too! But a tad too much duration 292/248 and not enough lift :-)

Plus I haven't run a hyd cam in a long time so I'd have to buy new...

500
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Gettin' close
« on: February 25, 2008, 07:25:04 PM »

Looks good Speedy Mopars, what's the specs on that bad boy other than the single plane?


Yea, it's only a wedgie , not a hemoroid....

I decided to run the single plane + 850 DP - easier to break in a new engine with a single carb. A lot less to contend with.

It is seriously from junk in the garage. 1972 400 block (got lucky - I had a highly sought after 230 cold weather block, who would have known) bored .040 over.

1970 forged 3.75 stroke crank, stock 400 rods, KB hyper pistons

ported iron heads, 2.14/1.81 manley valves
Harland sharp rockers
Smith Bros pushrods
ARP studded everything

Herbert cam w/ 280 adv / 246 @ .050 duration
Cloyes double roller timing chain

Edelbrock marine logs
Nicson water injectors

And the all important 4 cans of Mopar orange paint....

Nothing special - we'll see how it runs...







 


Pages: 1 ... 18 19 [20] 21 22 ... 28

Null

SMFPacks CMS 1.0.3 © 2026