The 468 is for sale if somebody wants it.  There is really nothing wrong with it that I am aware of. It runs fine, I inspected it last winter, and it hasn't been run  since. It is a 560 h.p. engine with all the good parts inside.

Two new photos, the older 468, and the new 540

That sucks.

I have a 468 Big Block Chev for sale.  It has had some use, but runs very well. Four bolt main block, steel crank, HD connecting rods, forged pistons, solid lifter Crane cam, Brodix BB1 aluminum heads, Jesel valve train, Edelbrock Performer RPM air gap intake.  Std crank and rods, bore +.060".  Includes starter and flywheel. Located in Alberta, Canada. Can ship anywhere.  This engine did not come out of a car or truck, has always been a boat engine.  Reliable and lots of power. 10:1 compression ratio.  I want to sell it (not really), to finish up another engine. Anybody interested?

Yes, I had heard that too. People who say these injection systems are not driveable, have never used one obviously. That being said however, if they are not hooked up properly, or something is missing, it would certainly cause issues. When I bought my injection system, I had Kinsler perform all the calibrations, and I pretty much only had to bolt it on.  The only thing I ever had to adjust, was the idle speed at first. It was a little high.  Other that that, I have never had to touch or adjust anything. I have to add too that Kinsler`s customer service is very good, pricey, but good. The quality remains though, after the price is forgotten.

That is a Kinsler fuel injection.  There are still numerous companies making them. Besides the aforementioned one, there is Hilborne, Enderle, Lucas, and probably others. They are not cheap.

I have to remove the "bedpan", and reseal whatever is in between it and the leg. Also I have to check the wear ring clearance at the same time.

You can see more turbines on another jet boat site called Eagle Forum, also a fellow from New Zealand named Mark Chromie also has some videos.  He comes over to North America to race quite frequently. These things really go!

I haven't seen any boats down there running turbines.  There are a few of them in northern Alberta, and do they ever have power.  The more research I do on the this, the more it makes sense.  It is the way to go in order to have 1000+ continuous power that doesn't blow up.  When they first started showing up in the unlimited class jet boats, (which had been dominated by big cubic inch reciprocating engines) they immediately dominated.  Not that they were necessarily faster (although most were), they were reliable, meaning they didn't break down.  Ultimately, they are proving to be less costly than exotic big block engines. These are take outs out of helicopters, which are no longer airworthy, however they still have many hours of life left in them. I think the next engine I buy is going to be General Electric rather than Ford or Chev.  To me, burning jet fuel just has the smell of power.

I look at the pictures and videos of the boats you guys all have, and they all appear to made of fiberglass.  Here, in Alberta where I go boating, most of the boats used in the rivers are constructed of aluminum.  I used to run a fiberglass boat a long time ago, and it was okay, but for many years now I have been running an aluminum hull.  I didn't ever weigh the fiberglass boat to know what it weighed, but I know the aluminum one I have that the bare hull weighs 600 lbs.  Even with a big block engine, pump, and fuel in the tanks, it still weighs around 2000 lbs, or a little less.  I may be wrong, but I think the aluminum hulls are lighter than the fiberglass.  What kind of speeds can you guys get out of these boats?  What cut of impellors do you use.  I use an A or even an A2 with a Dominator pump. When I go boating, I like to cruise around 4000 or so, and I do this for hours sometimes. The engine seems to be really happy at that speed, and the relatively light weight gives me a cruising speed of 60- 65 MPH. Just a few questions to satisfy my curiosity.  I don't normally take this boat to any lake, because the lakes around here are small, and just buzzing from one end to the other isn't very much fun.

That is all mechanical injection.  It works way better than any carb setup I have ever used.

I became involved with jet boats a long time ago, and I have seen some really goofy setups guys have made for their cooling systems. I have seen engines where the frost plugs got pushed out of the block because they had so much water pressure.  I had a customer at one time , and he had this fluctuating water temperature, didn't run a thermostat, had all kinds of manual valves for this and that, and the only way it would even begin to remain somewhat constant, was when it was wide open. It was a race boat, but still this was ridiculous.  I thought about how to make this somewhat simpler and less hands-on, and more automatic.  I was told thermostats don't work. I thought, they work in everything else, why wouldn't they work in a boat engine.  So, first of all, I installed a pressure gauge, and went for a ride. At speed, we had 120 P.S.I. No wonder the thermostat wouldn't work.  I drilled the back of the intake manifold, and put two 1/8" lines out the back to remove any possible air pockets from the block, (like an outboard). I then added a bypass line to the line coming straight from the pump that just dumped straight overboard. This reduced the block pressure to around 40 P.S.I at speed. I added a second bypass line with a ball valve to bring the water pressure down to 15- 20 P.S.I. (with the thermostat closed). There is also a third line that goes to the headers which is also regulated. There is a single line that comes out of the thermostat housing (-8) which goes to the oil cooler and then dumps overboard. This has worked perfectly for me.  I have done it many times, and it always works the same.  There are no wild temperature fluctuations, the oil warms up quickly, no water in the engine, and on step, it maintains the temperature which the thermostat is calibrated for. It has never given a problem.  There is an unbelievable amount of water available from the pump. When I first put it together, I didn't know if it would work, but it does. One thing to remember, is to put a pressure gauge on, just to monitor what is happening.  Once you know, you can take it off.  The key is to keep the block pressure where the thermostat can do it's job. The water pressure will drop when the thermostat opens, but it will come back as soon as it closes again. I have never had an overheating situation, or running too cold. Just like a car. There is not so much pressure at idle (around 5 P.S.I), but it doesn't matter, the engine stays the same temperature.