Nice meeting & hanging out with you & your wife Dan & TY for checking on us..i was in float mode 
TY JW its a L 20b w/ a Weber 32-36. I had to add the emblem to throw people off a bit.
I like the looks of your 240 Z..Im a 620 guy but all Datsuns are allright with me !

Right back at you! Let me know if you ever need some help with the L20B- I know the L-Series motors pretty well and have
good access to parts!!

JW

4 units @ 9 am (@ Davis Dam), so thats 11 am @ lazy harrys or so.

I'm launching @ BHC Comm. park @ 10:30- 11 am
South to 270 island, Big Bend bar beach, and lazy harrys.

Dan'l

Sorry we missed ya!!

JW

Just paid 10.50 a gallon at the track for 110 Sunoco

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so got the carb cleaned up and rebuilt seemed to be pretty easy will see how it runs. The only thing the carb kit didn't have was any of the vacuum parts for the secondaries is that the norm ??


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That is standard, vacuum diaphragm are separate part and not included in kit, just check with vacuum (hose to mouth works) to make sure it does not have a hole in it. Though it should of had the rubber/cork oring that goes between the body and vacuum unit.  Trick kits will come with springs to adjust the secondaries open rate as well as other items normally not needed for a standard rebuild-
Hope all works out-

JW

Hire a Vet!! If you go the wanted ad route- Get references! Small business is tough (17yrs now for me)- Had 6 techs working for me at one point, now I have myself. (BTW - none of my previous employees stayed in the in the IT field, though they all left for "better" IT jobs) I prefer it that way as now I can't blame anyone but myself
JW

Basically... the only way you're gonna do this right is to have it measured with a quality set of mics and a quality bore gauge... if you do not own these... seek out someone that does, a decent machine shop should. Second... once you determine your actual current clearance and decide that they need to be opened up... then size the rods and main bores accordingly... as long as the resulting resizing does not exceed the tolerable limits of housing size... otherwise your bearing crush will not be ideal. Theroetically, if the crank journals are within a nominal undersize... and you are using a quality bearing, such as a Clevite (not china junk), then sizing the main and rod bores to achieve the desired clearance will typically land you on the high side of the spec.

X2
Do it right the first time - I've tried a lot of things like some have suggested and as well as matching bearings to different journals, easier to just have the machinist do it right so that bearing crush is correct and the same for all journals. (mains & rods)

JW

Got it handled already.

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Products/555/50236/10002/-1

Can you get some pics of the baffling in that unit when you get it?

ty-

JW

Not to high jack, but  the permatex is rated for that as well- No experience with it though.
http://www.permatex.com/products-2/product-categories/thread-compounds/thread-sealants/permatex-high-temperature-thread-sealant-detail

Though I would use what dat1dsm recommended. Also the ARP is good stuff but research the bolt/stud with Arp vs. oil or any substitute as sometimes it is 2 different torques. You can get both on Amazon- Got a prime acct and get stuff in 2 days and Sat. Well worth it- Plus Movies!!

JW

I had a oil pick up come loose and was loosing oil  pressure that way who ever built the motor Pryor to me owning it didn't tackle weld the pick up to the pump     


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Been there done that on a Small block! I always tack the pick up, or at min use oil grade red loctite if no welder available-

JW

Hey all-
So got the my new boat and ran well my first time out. Though I noticed oil pressure was all over from 20-45. Nothing I would normally see I figure if all was perfect. Seems like if I let off the oil would go up, cruzing (3500 rpm) and it would lower to 25, but creep up and then down. Not a lot of chop.
Checked the oil once we got back on land and looked like it was low on oil, nothing on dip stick,  my bad I should have checked before we launched, but new boat was just serviced. Yet checked again in the morning and only 1/2 qt low. Previous owner was saying 6 1/2 qt. to change oil.  Now I think most BB Chevy take 7 qt with filter?  I am assuming that it was low, but seems like it is not draining back? or it was just low and the dipstick is not accurate. This is all stock from what I can tell. Oil was very clean, no lifter tapping from low oil pressure as I have seen and heard before! Assuming it is a Hyd cam.  My plan next time out is to put a mechanical gauge to verify, change oil and put 7qts.
Anyone see this before?
Also I will be getting a little heat in the motor, as the gauge never moved and there is nothing regulating the water as I have read some folks doing here. So will start reading a lot of those threads.
Overall very Happy with the purchase even if if I have to put a fresh bullet in it over the winter!


thanks-

JW

USA game is about to start. That's a must see of course.

Yup and up 1 nil already!

JW

my buddy has the same boat, they are pretty heavy but good riding boats. you can cruise right over rollers i would normally be flinching for.

Good info to know- Actually I find that a positive if I take up the lake- 

JW

Sorry pics took a little bit to load!