,,,

YOU FORGOTTHEWHITE

White = french? I still don't get it   

Metering blocks allow you to change your secondary jets.  However, they add about 1/2 inch to the length of your carb.  Catherdral bowls, like what are found on the DP series, will also add another 3/4 of an inch to the carb. You had the std bowls.

When you mount them sideways, ALL carbs will fit - inline is where you have issues.

Larger baseplates on 50-100 CFM smaller carbs usually work well.

Chromey - Yep, trailer is already set up for 7 wire...

HR56 - http://kb-silvolite.com/calc.php?action=comp - and I'm already running FORD pistons in one of my motors...(Mopar crank and block, chevy rods, ford pistons) ... I literally wrote the book on using GM alternators on Mopars and Fords. None of my older vehicles will ever see a mopar alternator, they suck. bad.

I need to find out what a hull repair like this would run normally. Strip, repair, repaint.

If you are curious to what size wire you really need to run - here are the standards.

http://www.interfacebus.com/Copper_Wire_AWG_SIze.html

Just as a point of information - a battery isolator is just two high current diodes with the alt charge wire in the middle. No contacts to wear out or corrode like a switch, and a diode is one of the most basic electrical items used in most EVERYTHING that has electronics - it lets electricity flow one way, but not the other.  

IMHO the best setup is two batteries and two electrical systems - one for the foo foo stuff like lights, stereo, coolers, etc - the other for the engine. These two systems powered off of a single alternator / isolator that will automagically charge the two batteries at the same time without affecting the other one. In this "perfect" system you also have a switch or high current relay that is normally in the off position but can be turned on to connect all batteries in an emergency. This is really handy if the engine bat is dead or dies and you need to start the engine (or if both batteries are near dead and that extra uomph will keep you from being a swimmer).

 

If the headers are temporary until you get zoomies - you could always get header wrap tape. They do shorten the header life, but do kill the heat. The coatings don't work nearly as well for keeping the heat at bay....

Wow, I just had a very experienced engine builder tell me all chevy rods are forged...    So now I've been told by one very experienced engine builder that all chevy rods are cast and another very experienced engine builder tell me that all chevy rods are forged... check the parting line on the top rod - you be the judge.

(Attachment Link)

wide parting line means forged - narrow means cast (two halves of mold)

Speedy,
 If you realy think its needed and cant find a marine pump for the Mopar.  Maybe you could drill the regular pump, attache a vent hose fitting, and run the vent hose to the fuel tank vent hose.    I think the whole idea is, if the pump diaphragm goes bad the fumes/fuel will be vented out of the engine compartment .

 just an idea .

That is what I thought the difference was, a vent fitting. I wasn't sure if there were any other differences (I couldn't think of anything else it could be though).  Just trying to be safe- after  my last accident, I'm leaning twords safer than not... Thanks 

What is the difference between a Marine and auto mechanical fuel pump? Is it just the air port on the back side of the diaphram isn't open to the air? If so, how are the marine versions? Do they breathe into the engine or is there a hose going to the carb or something? Are there other differences?

I have a choice of mechanical auto pump or auto electric in my garage.  I need to figure out if I can modify the auto mechanical pump to marine specs or if I need to buy another pump.   Any advice?