I always try to scrape as much as I can off with something that doesn't gouge the surface, ie plastic scraper, old credit card, or even my finger nail if it's relatively thin.
Anything metal or hard will scratch the surface and leave a "mark"

After you get most of it scraped off, use some regular old brake cleaner on a rag corner to wipe it all perfectly clean. Brake clean does two things, breaks up silicone, and prepares the surface free of any residual oils/dirt for a fresh new coat of nicely beaded silicone.




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Chris,
Grab a holley performance book at your local bookstore. Lots of very useful info in those books, and many useful tables/charts for you to reference while you are in there as well as later for any changes modifications.
Like I told you when we talked, you can get a carb pretty close on the bench, but to be 100% tuned to YOUR exact
Engine will take some tuning time while the engine is under load, timing settings,vacuum specs, ignition setup and so forth.

Feel free to call me if you need anything.



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That pan and those headers look very familiar! 😎


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Those mount feet aren't make specific. Any feet that have the half moon ridge will work.
With that said, there are many of them for sale on eBay.


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Hi,
I didn't get any pics, I'll pm you my number. Maybe MorePower gave you the wrong number.



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Looking for a set of four 8" round fuel tank straps.

Let me know what you have. PayPal ready!

Thanks


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As for Andy Miller.  I know from multiple other forums that some people don't like the guy.  I will state that I have never been steered wrong or done wrong by him   YET.  Of course, I only purchase parts, he does not do any of my mill work or assembly or design.  That is where I think most people don't like him.  Just me though.  The parts I've purchased, A+ top notch.  No complaints.

I only purchase extremely limited parts from him, ie, threaded restrictors and minor things like that.
His advise is always steered toward what will get him the biggest chunk of cash in his pocket. Every time I spoke with him, a simple question is snowballed into an hour long conversation. And short of hanging up the phone, nothing stops him.
He quickly looses sight of a simple piston to wall clearance question, and immediately starts pitching his parts, that if you don't buy, your engine will blow up before you even put gasoline to it...

From your previous responses, seems like you spent a lot of time listening to his BS and quickly absorbed it like a sponge.

One thing you should remember: not every single olds build requires a ridiculous budget to properly get a guys boat going down the lake reliably! If you loose sight of what the target intended use of the engine is, you can easily be persuaded into buying parts you don't "need", which takes away from finishing a project!

...seen this scenario tons of times

 




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Yea, angle is way messed up! Check the joints, I bet they are worn out!

Before you replace them, reposition the motor so you have about 3-4 degrees of an angle at the crank, and make sure the engine is centered perfectly!


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No reason to replace factory rods on a warmed up lake boat motor, or add girdles!
Factory rods are easily good for 500 or so HP.

If the lower end machining has been done correctly, and all oiling mods addressed, I have seen many many successful builds without going to aftermarket rods or additional lower end accesories


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I'm looking for a good set of 5 gauges. White or tan face would be preferable. Brand doesn't matter, as long as they are good working units.I'm trying not to use the all black ones I already have.

Let me know what you have.

Thanks


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If the price is right, I'd take it...how much?


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I have a pair of transom block off plates I'm no longer using


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How much are you asking for them? Any pics?


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