Null

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - propless

Pages: 1 ... 20 21 [22] 23 24 ... 80
526
Random Boat Parts For Sale / Re: Motor plates / rail kit
« on: June 29, 2010, 08:17:17 PM »
Those top ones better not be mine!  ;D I can vouch for the plates by ironman, They look great in person!

 Nope, Yours are still at Billys house, waiting for you to be ready.  ;)

527
Random Boat Parts For Sale / Cleaning sale
« on: June 29, 2010, 08:15:04 PM »
 Getting rid of all the extra stuff around here.  ::)

 All prices + shipping, OBO.

 Top left, BBC, Mallory Unilite dist and coil. Coil is a voltmaster MK 2, dist # 3740201, coil # 28675 (as best as I can tell).
 $ 80 for both.

 Top center, grab handle, nice and shinny.
 $ 15 Sold

 Top right, polished mini alt, Not one wire but there is a kit available to convert it from Summit.
 $ 80

 Bottom left, fuel fills, 1 1/2" tubes.
 $ 5  Sold

 Ign switch with acc position. looks new  :-\
 $ 5 Sold

 2 angled bezels, one was red one was blue.
 $ 5 Sold

 Forward/reverse lever, with B&M handle.
 $ 10 Sold

 Forward/ reverse handle, with red ano knob.
 $ 15 Sold

 2 fuel tank vents, through hull, fresh from the chrome shop.
 $ 10  Sold
 
 
 Pair of BBC Paul Pfaff valve covers, no breathers, no hardware, they need 3 long bolts for the top and 4 shorts on the outside. Angled for header clearance (??).  3 3/4" tall
 $ 50  Sold
 

 BLANK shoe and rideplate, plate is 19" long. Shoe is 1/2" thick, flat, and is drilled with the MPD pattern.
 $ 100


 SBC X ram, Edelbrock X-C8, with linkage, dirty (been on a shelf for a looooong time), not corroded and dont see and stripped threads.
 $ 150 Sold
 SBC M/T valve covers, dirty but in decent shape,
 $ 50
 

 

528
Random Boat Parts For Sale / Motor plates / rail kit
« on: June 29, 2010, 07:31:08 PM »
 Getting rid of some things that have collected around here.

 Prices are + shipping, OBO.

 NEW, BBC motor plates and flywheel cover by Ironman.
 These are new (never cut for a boat) raw 3/8" 6061 Aluminum, 26" wide, flywheel cover is 1/4".  These have lots of extra material on them and will fit a V hull or tunnel.  I did some measuring and theres even enough material on them to make them fit my 21' Daytona.
 $ 250.     4' rails and backing plates also available for $ 75 extra.  I have no mounting blocks or hardware.
 


 Used, BBC rail kit.  This came out of my Brendella tunnel hull, 24" wide, rails are 36' long, 2 piece front mounts, uses angle pieces to mount plates to rails. What you see is what you get, no backing plates or stringer washers. 
 $ 150 
 


 Used, BBF 4 point setup, with 4 mounting feet. I believe they are Hardin marine, no name on them but thats whats on the feet that fit them. Feet are from a different set so you will need to re drill them for your boat.  Plates are polished (not show quality, but decent), feet are as cast.  No hardware.
 $ 125  Sold   But mounting feet are still available if anyone needs them,  $ 20 ?
 

 Used, BBF rear 4 point mount with 2 mounting feet (no front plate).  Again no name on it.  Has provision for top mount starter.  Was polished at one time, has some scratches and such, not pretty but useable. No hardware
 $ 75
 
 
 

529
Jet Pumps / Re: Porpous issues
« on: June 29, 2010, 06:16:40 PM »
 X2, those boats had the little factory plate to control the porpoising issue (it was probably set downward from the factory). With that longer plate you have made it way more sensitive to plate angle. And with a plate that wide it will take way less angle to have the same affect as a standard ride plate.  You just need to keep adjusting it down until your issue stops.  Once you get it close, a 1/4 turn on those turnbuckles will make or break the setup, been there done that.  :banghead:

 A plate angled up will create a low pressure area under itself and try to pull the plate down (bringing the bow up).  If you dont have the thrust/speed to hold it up there, it falls back down and starts all over again (porpoising). 

 You might also want to add a couple pieces of angle to the top of the plate (front to back) to make sure it doesnt flex.  If the plate flexes it will change shape at different speeds and you will be chasing your tail trying to figure out whats going on. 

530
WTB / Re: WTB: BBF 460 Blower manifold and drive
« on: June 29, 2010, 05:44:39 PM »
 X2  ;D

531
Random Boat Parts For Sale / Re: Random parts
« on: June 28, 2010, 10:40:51 AM »
Shaft splines are the same, only difference might be length.  Some of the Jacuzzi combos had a short Drive line that didnt use a PTO.

532
Jet Pumps / Re: Porpous issues
« on: June 25, 2010, 09:34:21 PM »
This is what I got:

76 sanger super jet
Berkely pump
Droop
Place diverter

I am having a hard time getting the boat to not porpous. This happens throuout the speeds (slow & fast). It gets to the point at higher speed that the boat will loose contact atvthe back causing the pump to suck air. I made a ride plate the goes about 2" past the bowl and got the angle damn close to what I was told by JBP. What am I missing here, it's just not doing what I want... I am looking for some experianced advise.
Thanks-

 Do you have any pics of the ride plate you made ?  How long, how wide, how thick, how is it mounted to the hull, how/where are you adjusting it, did you add any bracing to it to stop flexing ?

 What angle do you have it at ?

 Did your boat have the short wide factory plate with 2 turnbuckles to adjust it ?

533
Projects / Re: Brendella tunnel
« on: June 17, 2010, 08:52:43 PM »
 :sly: Maybe a little, just to cool the blower.

 No, just kidding. The problem is theres lots of stuff that can be added/done to make more power, but then you have to make the bottom end handle it ($$$$).

 I do keep finding myself looking at the mech injection systems though.

 Funny story, I sent a message to Brian Busby the other day about some parts and said, "now I understand how you ended up with a BA motor in the old boat".  He responded with one word, "Exactly" .   

534
Projects / Re: Brendella tunnel
« on: June 17, 2010, 02:39:40 PM »
Thanks for the heads up John, good info.

 No progress to show on the boat,  Redoing a bathroom (not the dogs fault this time ;D).  Also have to take care of some other projects around the house, pool is green, back lawn is brown, and now my mom wants a new deck on here house.  :banghead:   Good thing I didnt plan on getting this thing on the water this year.

535
X2, I used stripper to get the paint off my project too, it didnt hurt the gel.  Just be warned, you never know what you will find under that paint (old repairs, cracking gel, pink gel, you never know).

536
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: ford 460- not getting spark
« on: June 11, 2010, 08:40:52 PM »
just to get you right.. the resistor is suppose to be in line with the distributor correct? and is there any trouble shooting techniques for the unilite distributor?

 No, the resistor goes inline with the + side of the coil, not the distributor. The distributor needs true 12 V on the red wire.  One side of the resistor will have 12 V (input side), the other side goes to the coil (lower voltage).  You can connect the distributor to the 12 V side of the resistor, but not to the coil side.

 Heres a link to the Mallory instructions for the Unilite (with diagrams),  http://www.malloryperformance.com/InstructionSheetsList.aspx .  Theres also a test procedure for the Unilite #7

537
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: ford 460- not getting spark
« on: June 10, 2010, 09:38:20 PM »
 I guess your right Skippy, that black wire on mine might be brown.  Its old and dirty.  ::)

538
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: ford 460- not getting spark
« on: June 10, 2010, 09:14:05 PM »
Like Nordie said, Unilite has 3 wires.  Red = 12V ignition (not from the coil), black = ground, green = to neg side of coil.   Do not take the power for the red wire from the positive side of the coil, the coil should have a ballast resistor (drops voltage to the coil) and if he has the red wire hooked there (to the coil) it wont have enough voltage to run the dist.

539
WTB / Re: Ford 460 blower
« on: June 10, 2010, 08:54:54 PM »
It wasn't so much the cost of the blower equipment for the Ford that worried me when I looked into doing it, it was the ignition issues. An offset or tiny dizzy/mag or crank trigger system seems to be required to make it work.

If I did it, I was going to do two of them in the Shrimpin Boat project, so double that cost.

Let us know what you find out.

Ray

 Or get a longer belt and stick a big intercooler under the blower.  ;)

540
WTB / Re: Ford 460 blower
« on: June 09, 2010, 09:08:41 PM »
 BBF (429 /460) blower stuff is really hard to find.  You almost have to go new, unless your really lucky. 

 For new stuff check out The Blower Shop ( http://www.theblowershop.com/homepage ), pick a kit and add $600 to "upgrade" it to work on a BBF.  :screwy:  $4500 on Racing junk (http://www.racingjunk.com/category/1275/Blowers/post/1861294/BIG-BLOCK-FORD-429-460-THE-BLOWER-SHOP-871.html )

 Or Dyers ( http://www.dyersblowers.com/1694.html ), there BBF kit is $3800 (polished / 871)

541
Whats Cookin? / Re: CoCoa Pebbles
« on: June 06, 2010, 08:48:27 PM »
Mmmm, now thats good cookin.  ;D

 Try some Fruit loops too Brad, there even good without the milk.

542
Audio / Re: Is it clipping, a bad connection, or all of the above?
« on: June 02, 2010, 12:54:18 AM »
Re routed power wire (red) and constant (yellow) straight to the battery and went with a new ground location. Same thing is still happening

 Same question as Nordie asked before, does it keep its memory when it turns back on?

 I'm thinking lack of power/voltage too.  Does it only turn on and off at idle, or does it do it all the time when its in gear ?

543
Projects / Re: what is this boat? almost a flat bottom jet boat
« on: June 02, 2010, 12:39:17 AM »
yep it sure does :thumbup:
thanks propless.

now what do i do with it??

you send it to the sleek craft retirement community....ray's house!

 Yea, grab what you want out of it and Ray will come get whats left over. He might say No now, but he really wants it or he wouldn't be here looking at the pics.  I think he wants/needs another project.  ::) ;D

544
Projects / Re: what is this boat? almost a flat bottom jet boat
« on: June 01, 2010, 09:55:23 PM »
early sleekcraft

bruce nescher started sleek

X2, looks just like SuperDuty's Sleekcraft.

545
Jet Pumps / Re: Jacuzzi yj help
« on: May 25, 2010, 02:04:38 AM »
 No problem.
 I dont want to come across as a YJ hater, they do have some good points too.  There an axial flow pump so they are better at processing debris (weeds, sticks, floating wood chips, etc) than a Berkeley style pump.  Anytime I got something stuck in mine all I had to do was stab the throttle a few times and it would clear its self out.  And they have a great holeshot.  When the pump was still in good shape, my old boat would pull up skiers really well.  And (at least with my old boat) it allowed the motor to be set alot farther back in the boat than others I saw (same hull design) with Berkeley pumps.  This gave the boat more room for people.  There just not good for speed, and you dont get a nice big rooster tail.   BTW, in case you dont already know, theres a grease fitting for the rear (bowl) bushings inside the bowl that some people dont know is in there. Open the reverse bucket and stick your hand into the nozzle, you'll feel it right in the center.  ;)

 Like I said, if your pump is still in good shape I would fix the trim system (if you can get the parts) and enjoy it for the summer.  If you decide you want to go faster, wait for next winter and pick up a different boat minus motor (there cheap like that), drop your motor in there and sell yours. 

 This was mine with the YJ. I used it for about 10 yrs, and it was a good boat, then I decided it was just to slow.  :-\

546
Jet Pumps / Re: Jacuzzi yj help
« on: May 24, 2010, 07:24:13 PM »
Interesting, Let me know whatyou have laying around Tom. Will a wj jet bolt right up to where my yj is if I were to swap ? I found a wj with an energizer kit cheap. How hard is the swap ?

 No, a WJ will not bolt in there.  The intake for the YJ is a different shape than all the other jets.  To replace it with anything, you would need to change the intake and glass in part of the hole in the bottom of the boat.  I'm not trying to be an azz or anything, but I went through this with my first boat.  Theres no inexpensive way around it, enjoy the boat like it is (fix the trim system), or sell it and get a boat with a different pump.  ;)

547
Jet Pumps / Re: Jacuzzi yj help
« on: May 23, 2010, 10:44:28 PM »
 You should give Tom or Josh at Jet Boat Performance a call ((805) 466-4719). Last I remember they had an old YJ trim system sitting around. They might still have some parts for it.

 No, you cant use a normal diverter on a YJ.

 Yes, the factory unit will do some good.

 No, it wont put up much of a rooster tail. Its the wrong kind of pump for that, it moves large volumes of water but at low pressure.  If you want a big roost, you need a high pressure pump (the Energizer kit), and a diverter.  But, with the price of boats today, if thats what your after, your better of getting a different boat with a Berkeley, Dominator, A/T, etc, etc pump.   :) 

548
Johnny, just take you stubby shaft down to your local driveline shop.  They can make a new center section for it as long as you need / want.  Thats how I did the one for my last boat.

549
Random Boat Parts For Sale / Re: FS: JET DRIVE SHAFT AND PTO
« on: May 19, 2010, 06:28:41 PM »
It is going to mount to a BBC PTO

-beerjet-
Not so much the Chevy PTO but any PTO.
So long as its a 1310

-beerjet-

 Not trying to kill a sale for you CHROMEY, but that DL looks like one of the ones that dosnt use a PTO.  I have one just like it. Came from a BBC and Jacuzzi combo, there shorter then normal and dont use a PTO, they bolt up direct.

550
Jet Pumps / Re: Berkley vs Jacuzzi
« on: May 14, 2010, 07:10:04 PM »
will it say wj on the pump??

 Yea, it will say WJ on a tag somewhere on the front of the pump.  Its easy to tell the difference just by looking though.  The WJ has a 2 piece bowl / nozzle housing (like a split bowl Berk). It has 4 bolts that hold the nozzle housing to the bowl.  The YJ is a one piece bowl / nozzle housing.

Any feed back on my 1974 Drake pump?

 Tom at Jet Boat Performance might know something about them.  I think he has a few around for parts.

Pages: 1 ... 20 21 [22] 23 24 ... 80

Null

SMFPacks CMS 1.0.3 © 2026