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Messages - electrowoman

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526
Engines / Engine Parts For Sale / Re: 10qt ford pan
« on: June 26, 2008, 02:04:49 PM »
You should probably read this post "460 oil pressure issue starting at 4600 RPMs update"
Then call Milodon and see if you can get a full value refund for the pan.
 

527
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: proper cam break in
« on: June 26, 2008, 12:29:13 PM »
I put mine in the water and just took a slow ride around the no wake zone.  Varied speed between 1800 to 2300 or so RPM's.

  Never more than 400 yards from the launch so no issue if I had to row.
If it's in the water you can't mess up the pump in any way and no hassle with the drive line.
We put it back on the trailer and changed the oil.  went back out for a ride.

We used Rotella oil and Comp cam additive.

Good luck



528
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Holley adjust a plate
« on: June 26, 2008, 11:42:57 AM »
Has anyone tried the Holley adjust a plate?  I beleive that's what they call it.  It's the plate to allow mixture changes from the outside.  No more jet changes

Seems like the idea of the ages if it works.

529
Here's the close of this post.   Today we tried out Armondo's pan,  full load 10 quarts of oil.   The engine ran 5200 RPM's with NO OIL PRESSURE LOSS what so ever.   

I hammered it out of the hole and the oil pressure gauge stayed right on 75 LBS.   There is absolutly
no doubt the Milodon pan was the issue.

Now the best part.   I called Milodon back and talked to Tom this time.   He told me they HAVE had issues with this pan and can't figure out why.   He is having Summit give me a full refund and paying shipping back to boot.

So all's well that ends well, the motor survived with no ill effects.   Milodon stood behind their product and Summit is still my parts catalog of choice.

Thank all of you again for your time and help in solving this problem,  you really are great!


530
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: high rev cut out???
« on: June 21, 2008, 02:28:50 PM »
I'd go about 1/4 mile wide open then shut it right down.  Pull a spark plug and you'll know if it's the carb or not.

How are your plugs and wires, new, old worn out?  Top end balls to the walls will allways show up the worst parts.... in a hurry  :)

531
Armondo's pan is on, Monday will tell the tale but I'm confident it'll work this time.   Here are some comparison shots of the two pans.

I don't think it takes a rocket scientist to know who to call when you need an oil pan.  I just wish I knew it sooner.

  The MSD 6AL works now and I put on a fuel filter water seperator for good measure.  The new 750 is on with the changed secondary spring so it's ready to get wet!  I don't know why they come with the heaviest spring installed.

Again, thank all of you that said it was the pan and got me fixed up.

532
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Water hose routing question
« on: June 19, 2008, 05:16:34 AM »
Thank you   :)   

533
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Water hose routing question
« on: June 18, 2008, 07:42:03 AM »
It will be in the mid 80's for sure. 

534
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Water hose routing question
« on: June 18, 2008, 07:36:22 AM »
When I switched my exhaust manifolds to Logs I was told to run the water in the exhaust first then to the block.  The idea was to preheat the water when it was cold I suppose.

Now my question is when the lake water is warm, would it be wise to run the water to the block first then the manifolds last? 

My old system put the water to the motor first then it came out to the manifolds.

I've had no problems with temp yet but I'm curious,  does anyone switch the feeds to suit water temp
with this setup?

Hardin marine logs, 460 Ford engine.


535
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: HELP!!!!
« on: June 11, 2008, 10:49:46 AM »
You have a short somewhere.   There is no current flow through the resistor till the points are closed. 

Take the wire off the distributor, hook an ohm meter from the dist. terminal to ground.  You should  see meg ohms with the points open and near zero when they close.

Make sure the wire to the points isn't tilted down touching the base.

I allways unhook the battery when running ohm tests, you should too!

Good luck


536
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Indmar or Hardin logs?
« on: June 01, 2008, 11:37:56 AM »
I haven't decided what to do yet.  I'm just trying to find the best flowing manifolds I can.
Once that happens I'll sell the rest.  I paid $126 on ebay for the Hardin manifolds and the high risers are the one's that came on the boat.  There is no brand name on them that I could see.

537
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Indmar or Hardin logs?
« on: June 01, 2008, 08:47:35 AM »
What do you need for them, and are they 3" exits?   I never heard of them making logs before.
They all look so close the same it makes you wonder if they used the same plans.



538
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Indmar or Hardin logs?
« on: May 31, 2008, 06:23:23 PM »
Thank you, and ask him if he takes trade ins....  I'm going to have a manifold shop
here at the rate I'm going  :)

539
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: The Great Debate! Carb vs. EFI
« on: May 31, 2008, 04:30:21 PM »
If fuel injection had been invented first you wouldn't even know what a carb is.
There would have been no need to invent one  ;D

Anything a carb can do FI can do better  ;)

540
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Indmar or Hardin logs?
« on: May 31, 2008, 04:25:01 PM »
Could you post a picture and what do you want for a set?  What's the differance from what I have now?
Thanks.

541
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Indmar or Hardin logs?
« on: May 31, 2008, 01:52:42 PM »
I have a 77 Glastron Carlson CV 23 so over the top headers are out.  The Stud girdle and roller rockers ruled out the upward exhaust..... Doesn't anyone make a decent log?   

All I've seen were oldie's on Ebay.  We did port the Hardin logs but 4 inch exits would be nice


542
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Indmar or Hardin logs?
« on: May 31, 2008, 01:47:43 PM »
I went from the upward style to these logs for valve cover clearance.  Hardin marine.

543
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Indmar or Hardin logs?
« on: May 31, 2008, 10:19:24 AM »
Which Brand logs flow better?  Does anyone know where flow testing may be posted?   

544
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / 460 marine exhaust logs
« on: May 28, 2008, 12:59:33 PM »
Does anyone know what is the best flowing exhaust log manifolds for a 460?   I can't use the manifolds that angle up because of the tall valve covers.

I have the Hardin logs now and had to port match them to fit.  It looked like they missed by 1/8 inch when they cast them  ???

So, what do you think?

545
Sure was a great day on the lake,  I hope everyone had a great holiday.

546
I picked this distributor up on ebay for $52.00 new.  I couldn't pass that up.  It is a mallory dual point with the tach drive and great advance adjustabality.

I figured out the issue yesterday.  There was an ignition resistor on the back of the engine which I thought went to the electric choke.  wrong....

I used that supposed switched 12 volts to the coil to feed the msd.

I was feeding the MSD around 6.5 volts.  I'll be hooking it back up this week feeding it 12volts
this time.




547
I forgot to mention the one recommending I take oil out of the pan was Milodon.

Again, I appologize for comming across as arrogant, believe me it was frustration.

 I would like to thank you all again for steering me away from the pump and to the windage in the pan.   Calling Armondo was such a big help and I would never have known about him with out you guys.

This is a great forum and the knowledge available here is staggering!

Thank you again.


548
Thank you!   And no hard feelings.  I think it's great to have a spirited discussion.  It helps
unload the frustrations and gets some great ideas going for a solution.

Thank you all again.

PS  I don't want anyone to miss the part that today with around 7 quarts of oil this engine
DID NOT LOSE OIL PRESSURE RUNNING 5000 RPM'S.   I just ran it up and backed it off.

WITH THE HV OIL PUMP!

IT WAS NOT THE OIL PUMP AS MOST ALL OF YOU SAID ALL ALONG,  SO YOU CAN GIVE EVERYONE ELSE
AN "I told you so"   ;D

SO A BIIIIIG THANK YOU.

549
I've been very polite to your buddies.  I also have bought many many parts from Summit over the last 25 years or so.

 I don't however share your desire to spend "big bucks" on parts that don't work as advertised and just eat it when they don't.

My beef is with Milodon, I'm just trying to enlist the help of Summit to get them to take the pan back.

It's easy to come off as arrogant in an email.   You can neither hear the tone nor the frustration of all the hours of work being in vain.  It's all subject to readers interpretation,  One guy would say "I understand" the other "he's arrogant"

Back on track here, I can't pump a 6 quart pan dry with the same brand HV pump as I'm using now on a 10 quart pan.   

How do you explain the manufacturer telling someone to drain 2 or so quarts out of a 10 quart pan and try that?    They are trying to blame it on the pump bypass??  Am I missing something here, how does taking oil out of a pan fix a bad oil pump bypass?

 Summit says try a stock pump.   If I'm pumping the pan dry why would you take oil OUT?  If it's a pump bybass why would you take oil OUT ???  Why would you go to a stock pump and not a new HV pump if it's a bypass?  Does this sound like crap and a run around to anyone else or is it just me?

So now I'm running a 10 quart pan with a bit over 7 quarts of oil in it.  This by the way has stopped the oil pressure drop.   Hmmm, I guess it fixed the pump.  The HV pump that is.

 Did I get what I paid for?  NO. Does it indicate a problem with their pan that they know about, I certainly think so.  What do you guys think?

Now back to your statement of I'm pumping the pan dry with that  HV pump.   How can I pump a 10 quart pan dry with 10 quarts of oil in it but not if I only put in 7-8 quarts??   

Let's see you handle that question. 

 What makes you think it's the pump and not the windage tray?

The fellow I'm buying the new pan from  said he feels it's a lack of baffles and gates in addition to crappy windage tray.  He feels the oil is following the crank due to the crappy windage tray and  not draining back fast enough due to the lack of gates and prober baffles.   

I would like to thank you gentlemen that recommended Armondo's racing pans.  They were really nice to talk to and very informative. 

Next, should I just say "close enough I only paid  $400+ no biggie" and use this Milodon pan for a parts box?  Not me, I think I should  say "wait a minute, this isn't what I paid for, I can only run between 7 and 8 quarts in a 10 quart pan.

If a part doesn't work up to my expectations it's gone.  Arrogant?  I call it particular and fussy. I'm  willing to pay a fair price for what I need with the expectations of getting what I pay for.
That used to be the American way, pride in craftsmanship. 

I guess it depends on which side of the fence you are on maybe someday you'll be on the other side too and you may come across as arrogant.

I hope this string prevents just one person from going through the crap I have.

Sorry for the length of this post.

550
I agree with you, keeping the customer satisfied is so rare anymore.  Now it's, pay me
and shut up.

We need to find out who is determined to keep the customer satisfied and patronize them
when ever possible!

If this pan does work and the pressure doesn't drop that proves the pan was the issue.  No if ands or butts.   Then the ball is in their court.

If they do what I expect, NOTHING I may ask armondo if he would modify the pan to his specs.

I believe the basic shape is the same on both.

They were really nice people to talk to.  If it's cost effective I would have a spare pan as opposed to a junk box.


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