liberal amounts of penetrant over several days should do it.

Here is what it looks like by itself

Propless - Thanks!

Marcsrollin - I got the V drive mounts for 100 bucks off of ebay - remember I'm building a BB mopar, so there aren't a lot of mount options available to me. They are exactly the correct width for my stringers, and other than no where to put a thrust button, seemed to be perfect. I'll be running the mounts "V drive backwards (which is forwards for the rest of us). They happen to match my valve covers, and the rear mount allows me to have a starter too (Mopar starters bolt to the trans, not to the engine).

HR56 - Took about 3 hours of milling to create this...

 

If the Olds driveline bolts directly to the flywheel, then no, you can't use it. You will either need a 1310 driveline to fit your existing Mopar PTO, or a 1350 driveline and a 1350 Mopar PTO. Unless you are running real big power the 1310 will suffice. The 1310 driveline is easier to find used and new ones cost about 1/2 of what a 1350 costs.

Thanks !

BTW - what is real big power? 600? 800? 1000 hp? When does it become nessasary to step up?

So my big question is - can I use my olds dl with a large PTO - if it is one of those olds specific ones. I assume that if it is a std 1350 one, no issue. How do I tell? The length?
Thanks!

Here are the two...

The round one fits on my Mopar flywheel, the CV itself bolts directly to my olds flywheel.

How nessasary are they I wonder??? You are always going to have some sediment, and with the water flowing it would seem like it would just keep flowing on out. Maybe I'm wrong though...

I know Mopar's have exactly that, a drain at the lowest part in the middle of the block on each side for cleaning the crap out. It would seem logical that other mfg have it too - but I don't remeber the 455 having one. I'll have to check next time I'm in the garage.

But, shouldn't you regulate the amount of fuel from the fuel pump to the carbs so as to not pump more fuel through the carbs than needed and therefore have unused fuel dumped out through the exhaust?   I have read that most people seem to think big CFM numbers means more power and in reality it just means waisted gas.  Most people over size the carb, be it car or boat.

There is a needle and seat on the carbs - think about the toilet in your house. Same thing. You have 60-100 PSI going to the inlet of the toilet. As long as you dont overpressurize the house to 200 psi, water will not flow unless the bowl gets low (like when you flush).

A carb is the same thing. The fuel is pressurized to the float bowl, which acts as a mini gas tank. There is a needle and seat which shuts off the inlet flow of gas when the float bowls are full. As long as the fuel pressure doesn't push the needle open, it will work as planned. Above 9-10 PSI this can get pushed open. A mechanical pump and some of the lower flow electric pumps are preset to pump a maximum of 7 psi.

For the most part, changing PSI will not alter your jetting (there are some exceptions I'm not going to get into now). Jetting is where you are either being rich (dumping fuel out the exhaust), correct, or lean (melting a hole in your piston from the lack of fuel and the heat it creates).


There is more to carb CFM and requirements than just RPM. Intake manifold, head cfm, valve diameter, cam duration, all play a part. I have a 454 that needs 450 cfm max - while one of my 440's needs around 900 and the other 440 needs 1700. Factory 440's with a 5500 rpm shift point came from the factory with 1300 CFM. The same engine also came with a single 625 CFM 4bbl.

If you run a single plane you should run a smaller carb than if you have a true dual plane. This is because the engine only sees half of the carb. If you run a tunnel ram, the manifold makes the head flow better, so you need a larger carb.

If you are running a dual plane and want to experiment, try different open carb spacers (1/2, 1 and 2 inch). This will allow the engine to "see" a bigger carb, and make your intake look bigger. If you gain RPM, then you know you needed more CFM (or a different runner length).

I'm leaving some stuff out so this post isn't too long....but you guys get my drift..

1:1 Linkage on pri/sec - no acc pump linkage on secondaries - 50 cc pump - non cathedral bowls - definately a 660 center squirter carb in my opinion.

I dont remember right off hand what brand it is, I knew they would make noise quiet or noisy, so I got the quiet ones and I do have a gasket that I coat lightly with black rtv. It left a pretty good indent where the ends of the pins hit, so I am going to check into some kind of (teflon or hard rubber) to put into the ends after shaving them down. If that dont work I see how many hops I can get out of them skipping across the lake 

Rubber - I wouldn't do that. The rubber will wear, and you will have that in your oil. HR56 asked a good question - if the gears are not solidly mounted to the shaft then you may want that press fit to keep them in place. If it is excessively tight, just cutting to clearance may be the way to go.

BTW pete jacksons are really loud - even the quiet version. An old trick is to put a nitrous direct port nozzle right at the gear (the old style with only one opening, not the mix style fogger) and plumb it for oil. This will drench the gear in oil and keep it silent.  On bb mopar's this is done easily through the fuel pump boss - you would have to figure out how to do it on an olds.

okay, that sounds good, so they're not DP's? i think i have another pic of the other side w/ all the action on it...ill post it up soon...thanx for your help bud.

Reid

Technically no, but they are based on the DP carbs and have 1:1 ratio (pri and sec open together), and the acc pump shoots from the center rather than the side. These are race carbs typically, and designed for a 2x4 application. They are good carbs. Most people would still consider them double pumpers...

only if you want the rev limiter to come on at 3K...otherwise you need a larger value...