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Messages - speedymopars

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626
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Installing a new wiring harness
« on: December 19, 2007, 09:56:59 AM »
Quote from: GAWnCA on December 18, 2007, 08:45:18 PM
You're right.  I just failed to list it.  I plan on running a #12 to the dash and attach to a grounding block.  I'll be installing a block at bother ends of the harness, one on the motor and another behind the dash.  This way I can isolate or swap out or add something if I think of it later on.  I'll add a pull or fish line in the event I need to run another wire.  I always do an overkill when I do wiring.

I would at least do a 10 gauge for both general power and ground, esp if you have a std radio.

For a real stereo with an amp, use 6 or 4 gauge.

On the wiring, I always run 2-4 more wires than I think I need - I usually end up using them!

627
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Installing a new wiring harness
« on: December 18, 2007, 08:19:09 PM »
Don't forget a good ground wire. The chassis in a car does this, but in a boat, you will make sure this is a thick gauge wire. Otherwise all of your gauges may read low, and the dash lights may be too dim.

628
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Out with the Q-jet in with Holley
« on: December 16, 2007, 06:03:32 PM »
On manual chokes, if you don't want to physically remove it, you can put a piece of coathanger / wire in the cable slot and have it wired (locked) open.

629
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Out with the Q-jet in with Holley
« on: December 16, 2007, 12:48:26 AM »
Quote from: SLCKREG on December 13, 2007, 01:38:59 PM
It probably goes without sayin but I'm going to anyway, thats the same carb I put on first of the year, the only issue I had was the chock fell shut. When you open it manually it feels like it takes enougph force to open I didn't expect it to fall shut with the motor runnin.(but it did instantly) There's probably a better way, but I just took the butterfly completly off.

A jet really doesn't need a choke, esp if you have a hand throttle.

There is an adjustment for the mixture on the side (on electrics you loosen and turn the entire black canister), as well as an idle screw for the choke (bottom access 5/16 screw, only visible at WOT when mounted with electric choke). If you leave the choke on a carb, play with the mixture setting, but back off the idle speed. No one needs to be idling at 1700 rpm at the docks waiting for the choke to come off.

630
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Out with the Q-jet in with Holley
« on: December 16, 2007, 12:44:07 AM »
Quote from: Legal Chemistry on December 13, 2007, 12:20:47 PM
I believe it is the Edelbrock Performer.  I'll probably go to San V or El Cap to test it out (east San Diego.)

Want to pull it north to elsinore?

631
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Out with the Q-jet in with Holley
« on: December 16, 2007, 12:22:40 AM »
Quote from: propless on December 15, 2007, 09:42:38 PM
:o Speedy !!  A Blue Oval site  ???  Are you starting to see the light  >:D

 jk  ;D thanks for the link, cool info.

heh heh - if you only knew.... it's the other way around....

632
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Out with the Q-jet in with Holley
« on: December 15, 2007, 08:57:37 PM »

If you guys start to tune your carbs, I'm here to help you out. Most of the time, if you have a carb that is unknown, take the time to find the list number, go to Holley's site, and find out what parts your carb originally came with. Make sure you are starting from there, if things get too far from stock, it can seem like you are getting nowhere.


http://www.jason.fletcher.net/tech/carbtuning/carbtuning.htm


633
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Out with the Q-jet in with Holley
« on: December 15, 2007, 03:34:30 PM »
If you do that, you decrease the pump duration, but the CC's stay the same. With an aggressive initial shot, the engine will rev quicker,  however too much will bog it too. You have to find that balance between enough fuel and too much.

If it sputters then goes - squirter size
If it goes, sputters, then goes again - pump shot.

Normally with a car, you start small and work your way up from the stock settings.

With a Jet, Start at stock and work your way down. If a problem appears or engine acceleration gets worse, only then start going up. Most jets are not going to have a problem of not enough pump shot. YMMV

634
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Marine Carbs ?
« on: December 13, 2007, 08:26:47 PM »
and a timeslip to go with it

635
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Marine Carbs ?
« on: December 13, 2007, 08:25:57 PM »
Here are a few

636
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Marine Carbs ?
« on: December 13, 2007, 12:11:47 PM »
Sitting in my garage. Ran good (recent rebuild - herbert hyd .490 lift 230 duration cam, performer) , it was the boat stringers that got trashed. I had to either fix the stringers, or change to a different engine. Given the fact I have 4 BB mopars in the garage, my entire fleet is Mopar (inc a 12 second 440 van and a 9 second duster), the choice was clear (and a good excuse).


637
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Out with the Q-jet in with Holley
« on: December 12, 2007, 09:52:07 PM »
The acc pump covers up the fact the engine can't rev to WOT potential and the fuel takes a while to get flowing from the mains. With the engine effectively unloaded due to the jet's design, the pump shot can rev the engine quite high, high enough to pull on the pri/sec mains almost immediately.

In a car, the lower the stall, the bigger the pump shot for a given carb.  My 12 second van with 1800 stall, needs a decent size pump and squirter in the primaries, and a HUGE shot in the secondaries so it doesn't bog off the line. 

My 9 second duster with a 4500 stall has about 1/2 the pump shot volume the van needs.

The single carb I have setup for my jet, has the smallest cam available, backed off a bit on the adjustment, with a std size 31 squirter.

638
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Driveline angles
« on: December 12, 2007, 09:45:25 PM »
As I have mentioned, I am putting a BB mopar in place of my BB Olds. Of course, this means I have to figure out where to mount the engine.

My question of the day is concering driveline angles and what they should be. 0 Deg? .5 Deg? 1 Degree? How it this supposed to be setup for max HP transfer and longetivity?

Thanks!

639
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Out with the Q-jet in with Holley
« on: December 12, 2007, 08:41:25 PM »
Quote from: Legal Chemistry on December 12, 2007, 06:22:25 PM
I'll open up a new thread (yeah, I jacked the other one.) 

Question for you folks... I'm ditching my Q-jet and bought a Holley 800dp (4150, 9022).  I'm a newb on this so bear with me.  To make this change I'll need the spreed bore/square bore adapter, new gasket, and fuel log.  Anything else?  What about the carb spacers... any advantage to these?  Holley says this should work out of the box, is this true?  Any tuning needed?  If it needs tuning what really needs to be done except adjusting idle?  Any takers to help a brotha out   O0????  Free beer and stripers (well the beer at least.)

Thanks!


beerjet, thanks for the feedback.

Where do you take it out to tune it?

OK, this is what will probably happen when you put it on. When you goose it with a Jet, you probably will have a hesitation / bog for a second. This is becuase a jet boat needs very little acc pump, but most carbs DP's are designed to hit some kind of limiter (IE the torque convertor or prop). No big deal if you have this happen (try it first, it may already have a mellow pump cam) just get an Acc pump tuning kit and put in the pink cam to the primaries, and the green in the secondaries and see where that gets you.

You will need more acc pump the higher the carb sits. Open spacers will help top end, 4 hole will help the bottom end.

What manifold are you using?

640
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Marine Carbs ?
« on: December 12, 2007, 08:40:22 PM »
Go 850 Holley. On my 455, I picked up 500 RPM over the 750 vac (though the 750 did have some problems).

641
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Best carb size for a 466 BBF?
« on: December 07, 2007, 08:29:59 PM »
That would be what I would do too. With the mech secondaries, if you find it is too big, you can always adjust the linkage so the carb doesnt open all the way. voila, effectively a smaller carb.

642
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: 6200rpm @ 54mph 1977 Hawaiian BBF 460 berkley jet
« on: December 04, 2007, 09:56:29 PM »
Did you see what impeller is on it? If it is something small (c or d) then maybe it makes sense. If it is an A or AA, you probably aren't turning that RPM so check the tach. You would have to be making over 800 HP to turn an A that high, and you would be going a whole lot faster than 54 MPH.

My A is 43 MPH at 4300 RPM for reference.
My vote is the tach is on the wrong setting and Legal C's correct....

 

643
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Best carb size for a 466 BBF?
« on: December 04, 2007, 09:48:14 PM »
If you are on a dual plane, 850 CFM (the 4781 or 9381).
Single plane, anywhere from 700 (small cam) - 850 (larger cam).

Of course, anything from 650-850 will work no matter what manifold, it all depends on what you are after. Smaller will give better low end, bigger top end.

644
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: The Big Debate - Ford Vs. Chevy
« on: November 24, 2007, 07:33:29 PM »
Quote from: lilrick on November 24, 2007, 09:45:02 AM
Jet boats need torque down low. Most jets run under 5500 rpms. You couldn't pull up a big fat skier like me without torque.  ;D

That is one statement I don't understand. If you goose a prop, the prop holds it back much like a tire in a car. If you goose a jet, it will goto whatever the HP/RPM/Impeller allows. Am I misunderstanding (or maybe we just have a different opinion of what low end is)  :-\

Also, down low for me is 1000-2500 RPM's, not 5500. That is the top of mid range/bottom of top end in my book. I guess I'll test out that theory next year when they have to lug my fat a$$ out of the water.  ;D


Chevys have a 4 inch bore, which is great for emissions, which is why they are still around and had facory development for the last 20 years

Mopars with the largest bore got handed a death knell when emissions rolled around. Crate motors = OK, factory builds = no go.

All the new Hemi's are small bore, long stroke, just like the old chevys - The 572 Chevy is a big bore, short stroke, just like the old Mopars... Given how all of the engineers and management from Ford left for Mopar in the late 60's, the Mopar engineers and management all left for Chevy 5-7 years ago... history repeats itself...







645
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Headers vs Logs
« on: November 22, 2007, 10:17:30 PM »
Why, what's wrong with copper gaskets? Copper gaskets and copper RTV...That is what I was planning on using with my new build and eldelbrock water logs....

646
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: carb queston.....
« on: November 13, 2007, 06:29:02 PM »
I would have traded you for my 850 DP too...

647
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: N.O.S. PLUMBING
« on: November 13, 2007, 01:44:25 PM »
Quote from: SLCKREG on November 13, 2007, 11:52:14 AM
That zex perimiter plate looks good but I assumed is was a dry set up(no x-tra fuel)? I'm thinking about having it hpc coated and if i'm going too drill and tap they reccomend that be done 1st.

Running any NOS without an extra fuel coming from somewhere, will do at least one thing, melt the pistons. It may also melt the heads, plugs, and blow the head gaskets. Either way, it is a great way to create extra junk for you to throw away.

Dry setups are ONLY used on fuel injected engines where the computer and injectors are sized and calibrated for the triggered NOS shot. The extra fuel will come from the increased duration of the injectors, and will be matched to the NO2 flow. If you aren't running a No2 capable computer with an EFI setup - dry systems are not for you.

You need a wet system, and the plate should take care of itself - IE, when the N2O is on, the fuel sel should also be on mixing fuel in with the No2.

N2O is just that - Two molecules of Nitrogen, 1 molecule of Oxygen. No Fuel there, just the capability to burn it.





648
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: N.O.S. PLUMBING
« on: November 13, 2007, 11:06:03 AM »
A 250 shot plate is common and fairly cheap. You always need extra fuel with N2O, as it just adds oxygen.

I would suggest if this is your first system and don't care about the bling, just buy a adjustable 250 shot single plate system from NS, NOS, NX, ZX, etc. Jet it small, like 75-100 HP, and start learning the system before you step it up.



649
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: carb queston.....
« on: November 13, 2007, 06:00:00 AM »
That sounds like a holley 8896, I could use one for my engine. PM me the number if you don't want it.

650
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: N.O.S. PLUMBING
« on: November 12, 2007, 07:31:40 PM »
I did my own fogger with a tight radious bend tool, I practiced on several bends before I bent the real stuff. Not really that hard, you get the hang of it quick. I can't post pics, but I could email you what I did. The drilling was easy, the bending and fitting was the hardest part for me. If you are under 250 HP, a plate may actually be better, but you lose the bling...

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