yeah i saw them. i would love to have that shovlenose T-deck but my pocketbook says otherwise.

I,m curious why you are using epoxy?  It is much more expensive ( as you know) than Polyester.  It's also a different material than the original and I don't know if they bond well together.  Also once you have ground the cap area and glassed it and block it out, what are you using for a sanding primmer, Epoxy or a good automotive Polyester. fresh epoxy and new poly might not work.  I'd save time and $ sticking to poly.  PS If you are just filling the crack I wouldn't.  The typical cap is about 4" wide and requires quite a bit of grinding in order to get though the seam down to the glass they bond the top & bottom together with.  They do that so you don't have any pockets of air that will eventually cause a crack. As I recall B&K boat repair used like two layers of 6oz. mat and ground that out prior to priming. Glass fillers were not used.  If you do need a filler the cabasil is a good way to go. The spheres you peek of are Microballons and they are fine but you need a bunch of it to get the resin thick.  Sanger is a great looking boat when it's capped have fun and good luck.

WIzard  i am useing the epoxy for a few reasons, one is that it is water proof where as poly isnt so i can leave it bare and if i gets wet i wont really have to worry about the water and drying it out when i go to work it again. also i am using for the strength aspect, it is to my understanding that epoxy resin has more strength than polyester.as far as what it takes to cap the hull.... i know exactly what it takes to do it and do it right  and have no doubts i will do it properly. like i said i am no stranger to fiberglass. as far as the paint is concerned once all the capping is done i will be having the boat re gelled white from the outter strakes up and over and the onlr reason i am doint this is becauise i have/want to have the deck re gelled because the origional is cracking and a friend of my dads  own/opersates a boat repair shop and is giving me a killer deal on the gel work other wise i would use a good sanding primer and paint the boat just as i would any of the cars that i work on.


RC

So tonight when i got home from work i decided to pull the rubrail off my boat and see just what i was getting myself into. Well long story short the removing turned into literally ripping off the railing and i can clearly see what needs to be done. My hull is a 1978 Sanger SuperJet at 18' and my question is how much resin do i need to cap my hull? i plan on using epoxy resin so i know it will be costly and since i am running on a limmited budget i dont want to buy more than i need to. This is not my first time with firberglass work so there will little waste as far as unused resin, i just dont want to spend money on materials that will go unused. Also it  seems that the general concensus for resin is to go with the west systems set up. so i am thinking of going with them is there anything i should get in conjuntion with the resin and hardener? i have read about spheres(cant exactly remember) and understand they really control viscosity and kick time but are they a necessity? Any info is very much appreciated and I am kinda looking for some quick responses since i am planning on ordering the supplies to start this thing this week.

Thanks Again


RC

X4

Which is why i just got me this little jewl.




sorry to hijack but i had to show it off

Hey Tom, don't you mean Deck Ornaments.?


Which reminds me, I really need to get me one of those for my float.

It was nice meeting you out there.  I am sure we will see you out there again one of these days.

 It was nice meeting you and your wife Sunday. I plan on taking it out maybe one day durring the week next week. But other than that the next time anyone sees the boat it will be very different looking.(hopefully for the better)

Was 120 today here by 1:00 and I love it . I also work outside, and hate the winter months

Millers are nice boats. my dad had one when i was growing up.

Nope, I dont see a stringer there.  There is the vertical inside wall of the tunnel, then a wood trim piece (not a stringer) then the balsa. Look at the back seat, there is no notch for a stringer and its sitting flat on top of the tunnel.

LIBERATOR681, I was just curiouse because my Daytona hull has really small stringers (1 1/2" high x 3/4").  I was told the hull design gets its strength from the vertical walls of the tunnels and the stringers are basically there just to mount things.   

 AH Shit!! my bad    I see it now

LIBERATOR681, Just curious, and this is in no way a put down, because thats really nice boat and I wish it was mine.   But, looking at the int pic I dont see any stringers, is that a 1/4 stringer boat ??

Propless.

 if you look real close you can make out the drivers stringer. it looks kinda "yellow" compared to the color of the balsa floors.
 



btw bad ass float liberator

sooo if you mite "accidently" get roosted, mount it backwards.... what about preformance??

 there is no ill effect to performance if you mount it backwards. I also run mine backwards

ALL I SEE HERE IS OILS I DONT KNO..  I MEAN LIKE IS CASTROL GTX OIL OLD STUFF YOU WANNA STAY AWAY FROM???

I TOO WANNA CHANGE THE OIL BUT NOT SURE WHAT I SHOULD BE USING... SINCE ITS A BOAT AND NOT A CAR....

In all my cars/boats I have only ever used kendall or lately I have been using Valvoline VR1 oil..... In my motorcycle I use either Yamalube or Amsoil.