And they definitely turn heads or raise eyebrows when you say ya got one that might give the BBC's a run for their money! 🚤


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To counter heat involved issues, run a fuel system/inline cool can. Dry ice if you're froggy or big block of regular ice and water. Drop inlet fuel temp up to  30-40 degrees before delivery.

Heat in the engine bay is normal, counter it effectively and wisely.

I used GM Delphi-Weatherpac connectors, from 1-6 pins all crimped&soldered with rubber seals. Got a kit on EBay for like 85.00, comes with male and female pins in 2 gauges of wire. Came with pin removal tool and case for all.

If you're runnin' an oil cooler, I'd say Tee it in on the return line. That way you know the lowest temp you will run, or on the outbound line to monitor the highest temp.


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Weigh anchor!

In addition, that goofy welded on "scoop" protruded 1" below the keel.  More apt to dig for gold with I think.

Those headers do make an audible difference in the exhaust note, a little higher and tinnier; however, the purpose is to bring in a little more back pressure to get more low end torque.  Sprint boats use them fairly often.

On EBay, there's a shop selling a set of Eagle H-beam 6.735"steel rods for BBO for under or around $100.00.  I run them in  468" that's pushing around 575hp (BBO).
I built my own only reusing the "N" crank and block. They're reliable, and powerful.  Look for a book by Bill Travato (BTR Performance), Dick Miller Racing, Mondello, Rocket Racing.

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Slight correction, it's a 800 cfm list 9023 #1729

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Kelly,

I also would suggest you pull your oil cooler water lines off and inspect the inlet and flow tubes to make sure they aren't all packed full of weeds/debris, this could also cause your issue.

I run a 75 Carlson CV21 w/ a 468 @ about 580HP.  Get rid of the water pump, the JE pump on your ride provides (should) enough water flow with sufficient pressure to cool your engine.  Ditch the T-stat or drop it to a 160F with 3 1/16" holes drilled in it.  Get a pressure gauge on your set up, you've got to know what kind of flow/psi your running in the water. The pressure blow off valve works well, but you've got to set it with a gauge.  A gate valve set at 1-3/4 turns should be sufficient. I know the lakes your on, I grew up and ran on Buggs Island & Gaston, good deep water. 

I surmise the reason it runs adequately with the hose is the flow rate from your hose is making up for what the water pump can't do---it's shot.  I might also check the clearance on your impellar to the housing, it might be too much.  The previous owner may have done a quickie rebuild, i.e.- bearings, gland seals, maybe bowl bushings, and a gasket, depending on how froggy he felt.

Good luck!

Couple of things here, (1) what's your cam profile, (2) are the carbs new, old, rebuilt, etc, (3) tuning a dual quad setup is tricky at best, (4) how many hours on the engine and is it freshly tuned up, i.e.- cap, rotor, wires etc.  You'll need a balance chamber to link between the two carbs to ensure they're both drawing equally.  So you know what the jetting is on the carbs?