With any fresh GM build, or manifold change, I static time the engine at 10° and lock it down, it may not be perfect, but it's damn close.

This eliminates 'futzing' with the distributor. Never fun with over transom headers.

Simple to static time the engine.
GM HEI, points, msd or others.

Dan'l

Yeah, I set it back to 10-11, after I realized it was a vaccuum leak and not the timing.

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk

Get some brake clean and prime the front carb , when it fires keep spraying the carb to keep it running . Sounds like it’s running lean and that’s why it’s backfiring through the carb . Set ur idle screws down to closed the back off 1 1/4 turn out .


Sent from my iPhone using SoCal Jet Boats

It's not lean, if anything it's pig rich.  I was futzing with the timing during all this and retarded it too much. 

Going to sand the TR mating faces this weekend and get them nice and true to definitly eliminate vaccuum leaks, then try again.

So, last week I slapped on a vintage Weiand TR with two 750 DP's (Bought them as a package deal)  I've rebuilt the carbs and everything seems to be good on those.  Running 74/75 on the jets with 50CC pumps at both ends and no power valves.

I'm running a Mallory ign. module in an old points dist.  The ignition seems strong, strong enough that I backfired and blew the top plate gasket out of the TR.

The motor is a '78 454 out of a truck, stock cam.  I put 781 heads on it at the same time, those are good to go. I'm also running OT Bassetts.

My question is: Am I over carb'd?  The plugs are a little wet, but I attribute that to pumping the carbs to get it to fire and then it not running long enough to burn everything off.  I can't get this thing to idle at all, it revs to ~2500 then coughs and sputters a bit and dies.  I can fiddle with the throttle and keep it half-assed alive, but it's not happy.  A little poppy through the pipes, The timing isn't perfect, but I've gotten it kind of in the middle of too advanced/too retarded.

I'm thinking that I might have a vaccuum leak causing this, the mid piece on the TR isn't as flat as I think it should be where it mates to the top plate. I can see light under a straight edge on one side of the TR.  I'm going to sand the plate this weekend and see if I can true it up.  The way the gasket blew out of it makes me think that it isn't sealing as well as it should.

Also, how flat does the carb base plate have to be?  The perimeter is flat/true, but on an angle there is ~.005 gap at the middle of the carb.  It's like the ears have been a little too tight, but like I say, the perimeter isn't leaking, so I figure this little bit of gap shouldn't matter on a squarebore.

Long story short, engines revs high real quickly, then dies out and won't idle even when fiddling with the throttles.  Too much carb or a massive vaccuum leak?

Thanks in advance.

There's a cat out in Menifee with a bunch of stuff on CL, has a pair of flip up caps and a pair of flush mounts listed.  Might dig him up or shoot him a msg.  The number listed on the listings is 951-760-0987.  I'm not sure who he his, I'm trying to get him to ship me a pair of flush mounts to TX.

All boats are different.  I have a 76 Rogers SC with a BBC in it and as long as I don't come off plane too fast it doesn't take on water.  However, if I get around wake boats it tends to take on a little.  I have gotten it over the side while making a tight turn to the left with my fatass on that side.

I've only been in a jet for the last two summers, my suggestion is to go out by yourself or with a buddy and play with the boat.  Learn it, see how it handles different water and wave conditions.

I went out a half dozen times before I ever took the kids with me, learned a lot about my boat and how she handles, I'm still learning, but at least I have a decent grasp before putting others in possible harms way.

How much for that setup?  You think it'll hold water pressure?  I got some fuel lines from the guy I got my tunnel ram from and they leaked like a sieve.

Anyone have any -8 stuff lying around they want to part with?  Looking for a couple of 90° fittings, summit/amazon has them for ~$15 each, I'm not concerned with scratches or discolored anodizing so I thought I might see if I could find some used cheaper.

Grassy-ass

http://www.socaljetboats.com/engines/fabshop-bbc-upswept-custom-headers/msg0/?topicseen#new

Could you just weld on another coleector and cut it or the old one down so they're the same length?

Forgive my ignorance, but what does this piece accomplish?  Strengthening the hull, pump, or both?

Do you have any dimensions on the seats.

I drove from Dallas, TX to Sacramento to buy a boat from this site, so I'd say it's pretty far reaching.

how do u use it spray it on wipe it off?
do you let it sit for a while kinda in the same situation as original poster

I used CitriStrip from Home Depot to strip the paint off of mine.  Brushed it on and let it sit til the paint bubbled up then scraped it off.  Most places took two applications to get all the paint off, and I used a fine scotch brite pad for the contoured areas.  Then I washed the boat and wet sanded/polished the get.  It's not perfect, but it's better than the paint that was on it.