Haha...Hey Skip...Can't wait to see part 2 !

You forgot to attach the mistletoe to my package for the midget,,,haha

Yeah, new intake gaskets should be here in the morning! Looked like a pretty big leak from the rear side of the passenger cylinder head (The T/R has no crossover there). Also looked like some leakage around the #2, #3 and #6 cylinders too. I have pics I'll post on that when I figure out where I left the camera.............

Hopefully that's it! We'll find out Feb 27th at the Bartlett Lake outing! Was gonna take the Pickle for that, but I think I need to test this thoroughly.

Gotta get it ready for Dave to borrow...........Sounds like he needs it worse than me!...........

Ray

    Thanks ray!....Just gotta wait for the cow bell to ring now

GT.....There is nothing better than the 80's........think back in time my bro

  tell Ya what......she's no Ralphy boy......But me Likeeeeeeeeeee her

dunno if she'd hit me 3 times with orange hair...hehe 

Pearl Jam......"Just Breathe"

My choice...any movies with..

1. Liv Tyler
2. Charlize Theron
3.JESSICA BIEL
4.Sharon Stone
5. Pee wee  or Boy Goerge....

Exactly right.  Be careful of the 6V-71, 8V-71 etc. Not the same animal.

1 to 1 is when both pulleys are the same size (Usually counting the gilmer teeth). Overdrive is the crank pulley larger than the blower pulley, and vice-versa. 1 to 1 Almost never used for our purposes. HdRider can explain all this much better than me, but I'll give it a shot. When to underdrive/overdrive really has to do with PSI of pressure induced at what rpm and the compression ratio of the host engine and cylinder pressures.

It's all about efficiency of the system for it's intended purpose.

Perfect, for the street or us, would be where your boost guage holds a pre-determined PSI reading across it's used rpm band, and cylinder pressures are not near excessive for the hardware in the bottom end. (More PSI for a lower C/R and less PSI for a higher C/R). Over/Underdriving becomes somewhat of an experiment for most of us to get there, but others, (Barry, Dave, Tom, etc) have the experience to get it right on a guess usually.

As far as Willis, depends on how much o/d it really has. If it's a huge difference, he could be spinning the blower nearly twice for every revolution of the crank which is going to wear the blower out but QUICK! I would think. He needs a bigger blower and probably more compression. Also, the faster you spin a blower, the more HP it takes at that speed, to spin it and the less effective it is! Could be why he's being given a hard time.

Then theres straight cut and helical cut rotors, sealed oil systems or shared.........etc, etc, lol.

Ray

..........Good coverage!...Thanks!

Welcome Newbies!!

we know it did NOT come out of your shop

ya ralph.....last i checked......       $1,200 / $1,500.  per 100hp.....can u do the math...geez!

Guess maybe Kragens or Pep Boys has a special   on a 1000bhp deal......Just ask the fkn manager for the B/P specs.

ok guys and gals thanks for the input, now, splain when you overdrive it

ralph.....overdrive/underdrive . =  it's the same principal as a naturally aspirated engine....To Low or To High C/R.

Depends on what u wanna build

haha....A+  GT.......I shoulda known you'd nail it.....but I kinda wanted  "Wet dream" to reply

Thanks is that all

Welcome aboard..."Wet Dream." ...hehe